Transimission pan dangers off road?

[JDS123]

OK, I'm a little confused by your last statement @luk4mud.
I saw the aluminum plate stuff too and was def leaning that way. The thing that is confusing me is that I thought I could remove that monstrosity of a TC pan and replace it with a moderately more low profile one WITHOUT having to do a tummy tuck. Am I missing something here? I've seen a few TC skids that by no means sit flush and would appear to be a straight swap with the terrible, horrible, Frankenstein shovel we also refer to as the TJ TC plate.

I'd give Clayton a call. They make a system that might work for you.
Engine Skid
Transfer case skid

Besides that, you might have a hard time finding a transfer case / engine skid system that isn't a tummy tuck. There are many transfer case skid plates that aren't TTs, but I don't know how many TC / Engine skid plates there are that aren't TTs. Most people who install complete under armor like that spring for a TT. And from what I can tell from the Clayton website, the Savvy tummy tuck wouldn't be that much more expensive to install than the Clayton non TT kit.

If you eventually see yourself taking on some difficult trails in the future, I would recommend springing for a TT. I know I hate having to redo things on my Jeep because I didn't spring for the best solution at the time.

 

[Chris]

I communicated with Rokmen. Their view is that the oil/tranny skid is connected to the transfer skid, and they all have to be done together. Issues with that:
-That's about 100 lbs net increase in weight, subtracting out the factory belly skid
-You get into all the interconnected issues of doing the TT

With the Savvy aluminum oil/ belly skid, you pick up 16 net lbs and can add it to the existing belly skid. You can decide to do the TT later with a Savvy belly skid and will lose net lbs in the process.

I agree. Ultimately I plan on replacing my Rokmen armor with Savvy armor to save weight.

 

[Jorge Bolivar]

Anything that raise the transfer case even an inch will affect the output angle and the pinion angle with it, and then in forward is considered a "Tummy Tuck".

Yes, it is couple of solutions on the market that allow you to tuck just few inches and save lot of work headache and money but, after mess with the drive train angle you will need a SYE and a double cardan joint anyways. That is why I do mention earlier that you no have to go fully flat belly, 2.5 to 2" of tuck up will removed the shovel issue you are currently experimenting.

I do decide to get the most clearance I can have and suffer this pain once, it definitely add more work and extra expending. But I can easily go with a 2" system and be happy with it.

Swing by the UCF website and read about the Low Pro mount. This maybe an option that can serve your needs.

 

[Jorge Bolivar]

I agree. Ultimately I plan on replacing my Rokmen armor with Savvy armor to save weight.

Having a weight below the frame is not that critical as on the Body, especially if you like to swing by the rock garden.

Are you ever compare the weight of a Aluminum vs Metal motor/tranny pan skid?

 

[Chris]

Having a weight below the frame is not that critical as on the Body, especially if you like to swing by the rock garden.

Are you ever compare the weight of a Aluminum vs Metal motor/tranny pan skid?

I’ve never compared the weight, but I can tell you that my Rokmen skid is instantly heavy. It’s very well made, but man that thing is a beast in terms of weight. I would guess 50 lbs just for the transfer case skid.

 

[Jorge Bolivar]

I’ve never compared the weight, but I can tell you that my Rokmen skid is instantly heavy. It’s very well made, but man that thing is a beast in terms of weight. I would guess 50 lbs just for the transfer case skid.

The UCF 1/4" Al I went with weights 40.5 lbs.

I think the weight saving comes when you use multiple al parts trought the built.

One thing i can tell, body mount on the torque box suffer the armour weight. So more Al you can use around the body the better.

 

[luk4mud]

The UCF 1/4" Al I went with weights 40.5 lbs.

I think the weight saving comes when you use multiple al parts trought the built.

One thing i can tell, body mount on the torque box suffer the armour weight. So more Al you can use around the body the better.

Those UCFs look very interesting. Has any one installed their whole system? Curious if the no TT really results in not needing to touch the drive line? It should in theory.

 

[Jorge Bolivar]

Those UCFs look very interesting. Has any one installed their whole system? Curious if the no TT really results in not needing to touch the drive line? It should in theory.

The UCF it is an interesting product, very sturdy and well constructed poorly finished and shipped. I do have the whole Ultra low skid system but instead use the low pro mount I do use the Genright tranny cross member.
In my opinion the ultra low is not designed with an 42RLE on mind even when its creator say so.

 

[mgroeger]

Anything that raise the transfer case even an inch will affect the output angle and the pinion angle with it, and then in forward is considered a "Tummy Tuck".

Yes, it is couple of solutions on the market that allow you to tuck just few inches and save lot of work headache and money but, after mess with the drive train angle you will need a SYE and a double cardan joint anyways. That is why I do mention earlier that you no have to go fully flat belly, 2.5 to 2" of tuck up will removed the shovel issue you are currently experimenting.

I do decide to get the most clearance I can have and suffer this pain once, it definitely add more work and extra expending. But I can easily go with a 2" system and be happy with it.

Swing by the UCF website and read about the Low Pro mount. This maybe an option that can serve your needs.

I will definitely talk to UCF, thanks for the info and you have a beautiful underside on your Jeep.
If you are doing a TT why wouldn't you go all out instead of a 2" one? I mean if you are needing to buy a SYE and DC wouldn't you just go all the way to flat (or almost flat)?

 

[Jorge Bolivar]

I will definitely talk to UCF, thanks for the info and you have a beautiful underside on your Jeep.
If you are doing a TT why wouldn't you go all out instead of a 2" one? I mean if you are needing to buy a SYE and DC wouldn't you just go all the way to flat (or almost flat)?

Hi @mgroeger ,

Thanks for the compliment!
This is the final result of a underestimated modification. Well worth it and No regrets.

All depend on the usage. Initially i was dead solid on juts have 2" of transfer case skid but, the area where I do most of my wheeling requires the most clearance I can have without stretch my LJ. After few wheeling trips I was convinced that fully flat was the way to go but, once you start to line things up you notice that things will end up more forced in place than what you like so decision was made to not massage my tub and keep an inch of drop. This last was my reason for not fully tuck it.

Drive train geometry when altered could cause unexpected hard to spot and harder to fix issues.

I was going to do my SYE and DC either way I decide to go. I do recommend to have this done especially when big tires and deeper gearing comes to scene. I do also recommend to have new front drive shaft as well if end up on the above mentioned scenario.

Tummy tuck is a hole on your pocket but, if you planned you can be getting few steps done ahead of time and also some of the components need it purchase and installed ahead of time.