Hydro assist steering?

[Rescue6]

So now that I’m running lower tire pressure with the beadlock wheels it is much more difficult to steer as the front has so much more traction at least out in Moab where traction is amazing. Even with the front and rear lockers turned off it was difficult to turn. I’m on 36x13.50-15 tires at 8psi and I’m currently running the ORO U-turn steering set up. I need options on hydro assist steering set ups. Is the PSC extreme that is $1600 plus a cooler cost The best or only true way to go or are there other less expensive but great functional ways to go. I’m new to the hydro assist stuff. Thanks for any help

 

[Fouledplugs]

So now that I’m running lower tire pressure with the beadlock wheels it is much more difficult to steer as the front has so much more traction at least out in Moab where traction is amazing. Even with the front and rear lockers turned off it was difficult to turn. I’m on 36x13.50-15 tires at 8psi and I’m currently running the ORO U-turn steering set up. I need options on hydro assist steering set ups. Is the PSC extreme that is $1600 plus a cooler cost The best or only true way to go or are there other less expensive but great functional ways to go. I’m new to the hydro assist stuff. Thanks for any help

some folks down where I am from run tractor hydros. Some can be picked up from a store like tractor supply. This of course will work if you are in to custom fab and know exacrly what size you need and what you are wanting your steering to do.

The PSC stuff is great. You generally get what you pay for and PSC has a great reputation around my parts where wheeling is a little more hardcore than out west.

But you should really look into the RedNeck ram from West Texas.
The 94 has the modded box and utilizes the Redneck Ram Hydro assist to steer the aired down stickies (38’s) and it works flawlessly.

You will prob use a 1.5 or 1.75 for your ram. Give these guys a look and you wont be letdown. Starts at $600 and worth every freakin penny.
https://westtexasoffroad.wixsite.com/wtor

 

[Jerry Bransford]

What axles are you running? I can understand why you're having trouble with turning aired-down 36x13.50 tires, that's a big contact patch. There more to getting hydro assist working than just getting a ram assist installed, the track bar and its mounts is also in need of being beefed up due to how much additional pressure hydro-assist places on that component. I'm running 35x12.50 and I commonly air down to 8 but I occasionally get to 4 psi and I agree steering can get tough. But If you're still running the factory axles, I'd be running scared with that much tire.

P.S. Have you noticed any bad steering traits like bump steer with your ORO steering? Cross-over steering like ORO's kit is known for causing bump steer and other steering issues.

 

[Fouledplugs]

What axles are you running? I can understand why you're having trouble with turning aired-down 36x13.50 tires, that's a big contact patch. There more to getting hydro assist working than just getting a ram assist installed, the track bar and its mounts is also in need of being beefed up due to how much additional pressure hydro-assist places on that component. I'm running 35x12.50 and I commonly air down to 8 but I occasionally get to 4 psi and I agree steering can get tough. But If you're still running the factory axles, I'd be running scared with that much tire.

CUCV’s...Kingpin 60, anything over 35’s and hydro is a no brainer.

 

[jjvw]

Seems like if you are going through the trouble of hydro assist, then a steering system that doesn't create bump steer might be worth looking at.

 

[Fouledplugs]

Right, depends on how much work you want to put in to it to get it right. Shortcut it and you'll pay for it later. Hopefully you have something better than the Jeep Dana 34’s. (Dana 44 center with Dana 35 tubes and outers)

 

[Fouledplugs]

Look at genright for track bar mounts. I like their offerings a lot. You got access to DOM. You could easily build a stout track bar with fk ends or w/e ends you prefer.

 

[jjvw]

Look at genright for track bar mounts. I like their offerings a lot. You got access to DOM. You could easily build a stout track bar with fk ends or w/e ends you prefer.

Currie might be cheaper and certainly easier. Then there is still the matter of the D34 axle. Good name for it, btw.

 

[Rescue6]

I’ve got a G2 CORE 44 front axle and a Currie rockjock 60 rear axle. I really have not had any bad bumpsteer with the current set up. I have read of people with issues but honestly it’s been fine. I do not even run a steering stabilizer.

 

[Fouledplugs]

I’ve got a G2 CORE 44 front axle and a Currie rockjock 60 rear axle. I really have not had any bad bumpsteer with the current set up. I have read of people with issues but honestly it’s been fine. I do not even run a steering stabilizer.

You will be fine. Any reputable off road shops in your area? Shops that build rock crawlers...?

 

[Rescue6]

Seems like if you are going through the trouble of hydro assist, then a steering system that doesn't create bump steer might be worth looking at.

And what system is that? It seems they all have issues. I have the Currie set up on my other jeep and it has problems as well

 

[jjvw]

And what system is that? It seems they all have issues. I have the Currie set up on my other jeep and it has problems as well

What problems are you having with Currie?

Your setup is a recipe for bump steer because the relationship between the drag link are track bar are wrong. A steering stabilizer does nothing to mitigate it. Granted, you may only notice the unwanted steering input at higher speeds when the suspension moves, rather than a slow crawl.

 

[Rescue6]

You will be fine. Any reputable off road shops in your area? Shops that build rock crawlers...?

I’m in Colorado so I know there are a few although I’d rather not pay someone else to do the work I can do in my own shop. I’ll probably contact a few just to get recommendations. Just figured someone might have done it on here

 

[Rescue6]

What problems are you having with Currie?

Your setup is a recipe for bump steer because the relationship between the drag link are track bar are wrong. A steering stabilizer does nothing to mitigate it. Granted, you may only notice the unwanted steering input at higher speeds when the suspension moves, rather than a slow crawl.

The ends don’t seem to last long and I bent a tie rod dropping on a rock. So my guess is you are saying the Currie is the best steering set up? I’m curious because I gotta do something to help steer this thing. I’m not sure my system is all that bad as some strait bar crossover set ups as mine has a bend in the drag link that pretty closely matches the track bar. I drive it 75 mph and crawl it and it’s no worse than any other Jeep I’ve driven

 

[jjvw]

On a stock width axle and stock track bar mounts, Currie is difficult to beat, because it maintains the factory steering geometry. Very little bump steer. If you are bending the Currie, bend it back. Or buy a Savvy tie rod and break something further up the line.

Flip the driver's side end and you have something nearly identical to a hi steer setup.

I can't say much about why the ends don't live long for you. Several people I know have been running Currie for years without any unusual problems or wear. Myself included.

 

[Fouledplugs]

I’m in Colorado so I know there are a few although I’d rather not pay someone else to do the work I can do in my own shop. I’ll probably contact a few just to get recommendations. Just figured someone might have done it on here

I would highly recommend contacting West Texas offroad and get their input on it.

 

[Rescue6]

I talked with West Texas Offroad about the redneck ram set up. They recommend a new Mopar pump along with the box rebuild and tap and there cylinder. So that puts it around 800 and still a factory gear box. I can get a stage 4 psc kit or an age rock ram kit for about 1100 with new pump new box and the assist parts. Decisions decisions

 

[Fouledplugs]

I talked with West Texas Offroad about the redneck ram set up. They recommend a new Mopar pump along with the box rebuild and tap and there cylinder. So that puts it around 800 and still a factory gear box. I can get a stage 4 psc kit or an age rock ram kit for about 1100 with new pump new box and the assist parts. Decisions decisions

I dont have the PSC system. Ive heard good things about it.

I can only speak to the Redneck Ram. It just plain works. Very satisfied with it. The steering is ridiculously effortless no matter what conditions you are in.

 

[Rescue6]

How long have you been running it. I’m just back and forth. I like the price and simplicity of the red RC ram. But I’ve got 120k miles and on my 3rd steering box already. Just want to make sure this rebuilt box is going to last and I’m not going to be sending it box back for rebuilds every other year. My Jeep has been used hard off-road only for the last 10 years. I just want whatever way I go to last me. I learned early on with this jeep to spend where needed.

 

[Fouledplugs]

How long have you been running it. I’m just back and forth. I like the price and simplicity of the red RC ram. But I’ve got 120k miles and on my 3rd steering box already. Just want to make sure this rebuilt box is going to last and I’m not going to be sending it box back for rebuilds every other year. My Jeep has been used hard off-road only for the last 10 years. I just want whatever way I go to last me. I learned early on with this jeep to spend where needed.

About two years. Always without issue. You shouldnt have near the stress on the box with hydro assist. So with that being said, should last longer without needs for repair/rebuild.