Questions on Rough Country x-series lift

[JDS123]

I agree with what everybody else has said. What lift you get depends on what you're willing to spend. Within whatever price range, there are certain lifts that are better than others. I.E. Zone is generally best for a lower budget and Currie or Savvy are generally best for a higher budget (at least in my opinion). There are other lifts within each price range. Ultimately, it is up to you to decide which manufacturer you like best.

And, in terms of spending more than your Jeep is worth, my tires and suspension are probably worth the same new as my entire Jeep is right now...

 

[ErikOffroad]

Prices as of now
rough country 1070
Metal cloak 2300
Currie 2400 plus 500 for shocks
Is it worth the extra because this is a lot more than I originally planned on spending and this is going to push back any plans of doing lockers

 

[ErikOffroad]

I just don’t want to be buying parts
Twice

 

[tworley]

I just don’t want to be buying parts
Twice

Well if you avoid RC you wont be

 

[ErikOffroad]

I’m going to have to skip on the zone kit. It may work good for some people but it’s just not what I’m looking to do. I don’t know what rough country ever did to you guys to make you hate them so much other than apparently making cheap under developed lift kits. I’m not going to get th rc kit. So let’s move the focus of attention to the 600 dollar difference between the metal cloak and Currie kit. Is it worth it. Should I also be looking at savvy?

 

[S.McArthur]

I have the X-series lift and it only serves for appearance. Seriously, please avoid RC lifts. I am already over the $2000 mark replacing stupid/poor/terribly manufactured parts. I've damn near "installed" two lifts and still have a long way to go just to get the proper setup.
The only thing left from RC is the control arms and springs, everything else has been replaced with JKS or Currie. And each time I replace something with a quality brand, the Jeep just feels so much better.

The RC lift did serve its purpose, but as I've stated, you are going to be dumping a lot of money back into the Jeep to get it right. If it fits your budget, go for it, but I guarantee you'll be back here asking why your Jeep rides like crap.

As for lockers, if you have not done much off-roading to see what your jeep is capable of, go with a lunchbox locker in the front. That saved my brain from trying to figure out how to build/buy a rear axle w/selectable locker. I still have not found a need to upgrade my Dana 35...yet. I'm still dumping money into fixing this lift problem.

 

[jjvw]

I just don’t want to be buying parts
Twice

These guys are trying to prevent you from doing that.

I like Currie/Savvy stuff, fwiw.

 

[ErikOffroad]

So if I get the 4 inch lift from Currie and the shocks and the yse and driveshaft is there any other hidden expenses that may pop up along the way ? Or is that everything i would need

 

[jjvw]

So if I get the 4 inch lift from Currie and the shocks and the yse and driveshaft is there any other hidden expenses that may pop up along the way ? Or is that everything i would need

You'll have to link to the kits. Also, compare Currie costs with Savvy.

 

[ErikOffroad]

Lift kit $2432
https://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-9800H
Shocks with steering stable $498
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16019_9906.htm
Yse $240
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52237_99_07.htm
Driveshaft $315
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_904_07.htm

Total $3485
A lot more than I was planning on spending.

 

[ErikOffroad]

Is there any way to get a discount on any of this? Would any of it go on sale on Black Friday?

 

[JDS123]

I'd skip on the RS9000XL and steering stabalizer and just go with the RS5000x. You'll get equal ride quality for a smaller price. In terms of the steering stabilizer, I'm still running a stock, 225,000 mile steering stabalizer on mine with no problems (the geometry is correct so the stabilizer doesn't do much). Otherwise, that kit looks fairly complete. I have the same one except with different springs and an anti-rock.

Only thing you have to consider is your future plans. I'm redoing my SYE because of my Tummy Tuck. If you plan on getting a TT soon, I'd recommend going with the JB conversion SS-SYE over the advance adapters one. The shorter JB SS-SYE will help with driveline angles after you shove the transfer case even higher.

There are 1000 ways to build a Jeep. I would consider tires, wheels, brake lines, and axle gears requirements on top of what you've listed. But you could definitely get away with stock gears if you wanted to. For 33's, you won't need upgraded steering or brakes. I hope I'm not forgetting anything, but I think that's close to everything you need.

 

[Artemis]

Is there any way to get a discount on any of this? Would any of it go on sale on Black Friday?

I know Quadratec offers a military discount and also one for the JL forum. Just talk with a sales rep when you are on the site. I personally email a rep when I buy things. Good luck!

 

[ErikOffroad]

New sye $300
https://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np231j_short_sye.php

Shocks $250

Still around the same amount but good call on the sye kit. Will this still work with that drive shaft I picked out

 

[jjvw]

New sye $300
https://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np231j_short_sye.php

Shocks $250

Still around the same amount but good call on the sye kit. Will this still work with that drive shaft I picked out

Don't forget the Speedo Healer if you do the SSSYE.

The drive shaft you end up with will need to be made after the final ride height is determined.

 

[albert leon]

I've been running a rough country 4" lift for several years. my jeep is a daily driver but I wheel it pretty hard.

My issue with the RC lift is that in order to do it without an SYE you have to do a TransferCase drop, which defeats the purpose.

What I did was installed the 4" lift with the SYE, but found that I needed to roll the rear axle back to correct the pinion angle which meant I needed adjustable uppers (the RC lift only included lowers. This worked well and I didn't have any vibes.

I went on to do a tummy tuck with a teraflex skid, this was a lot of work and required a body lift, & motor mount lift.

I didn't like the idea of re-drilling the front trackbar mount, so I replaced the front trackbar. I do have a drop pitman arm which improved the geometry up front. I also installed an AntiRock up front (which is incredible).

One thing I didn't like about the RC was the trackbar relocation bracket in the rear. The bolts kept working loose, eventhough I locktited them, so I welded it on.

I just recently upgraded the shocks to Bilsteins.

I have to tell you, I love how my jeep behaves on and off the road, and it all started with a RC lift.

 

[jjvw]

.... I do have a drop pitman arm which improved the geometry up front.
....

What did the dpa do to improve the geometry?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

What did the dpa do to improve the geometry?

Not a thing unless he had to install it because someone installed a dropped driver's side track bar mount .

 

[06TJ35's]

Sounds like your going to be wheeling your jeep with Ford 8.8 super 30 lockers and 35’s. If that’s so x100000 on currie lift. If they say RC is junk I would believe them. Jerry has used his currie lift for 10 YEARS. That’s proven rough. You might get 10months with RC. 10 years out of lift and still rocking sounds like a good deal. I’m currently saving for the currie lift and I’m on a college budget. I want to do it right the first time to avoid putting extra money that I don’t have in the future.

 

[TrailYacht]

First, the Currie SA lift is excellent.

First, how long do you want to keep this Jeep or how bad is the rust really?

Point being, try not to shine shit.. If it’s a rotten Jeep, sell it buy a better one or have fun with it as it is, but don’t expect a long life. As, @jerrybransford mentioned some of these lifts are a long term investment and last a very long time. If the Jeep is not, don’t bother.