Where can I get control arm bolts?
- Thread starter raycer12
- Start date
Replaced mine w 9/16 grade 8 w nyloc flange bolts, had to destroy my one front cam bolt getting it out, went to mopar and they wanted 42 dollars for one bolt, one washer and one nut, plus the cam bolt I cut out didnt seem to have any lobe on it at all, in fact the bolts were perfectly round wo the typical flat spot, but the mopar one they wanted to sell me did. Now being I replaced all 8 control arms w adjustable arms I started wondering if I even needed a cam bolt especially since my OE one had little or no lobe, called a buddy who does jeep lifts daily and he confirmed my decision, all he added was to make sure I used washers of same size as the cam bolt washers, I simply used the washers from the cam bolt, then cut the head off the bolt and drilled it, total cost 1.47 and an hour of time. If you don't have adjustable CA's and your cam bolts look more round then lobed like mine did, you could order a second washer and weld it to a grade 8 9/16 volt which is what I was going to do until like i said i talked to my jeep buddy who was going to do my alignment anyway and told me don't waste my time since i installed the adjustable CAs.
Tractor supply is best place I've found for bolts, I actually don't buy anything but grade 8 or higher, only time I go lower is if I need a shear point when I'm building something to protect an expensive component, but in this case you want grade 8 or higher.
Tractor supply is best place I've found for bolts, I actually don't buy anything but grade 8 or higher, only time I go lower is if I need a shear point when I'm building something to protect an expensive component, but in this case you want grade 8 or higher.
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So I just had this same situation happen to me. No lobed washers. I couldn't find the right size washer at Home Depot or Lowes. My next stop was going to be Tractor Supply Like you suggested. Were you able to find washers that were similar? Two of the original washers are just not reusable.
2004 Rubicon.
To answer the above question; I reused my stock round washers.
Now to my question:
So... I am in the process of replacing my stock control arms with adjustable ones. I decided to replace all of the bolts with Grade 8 from Lowes. comparing the bolts the stock ones look more heavy duty. I figured well theses grade 8 bolts are the strongest so don't worry. I'm using grade 8 washers and grade 8 nyloc nuts.
So, here comes the issue. I stripped one of the new bolts on the upper control arms. (BTW I am using 1/2" on the LCAs and 3/8" on the UCAs.) Torque wrench set at 55 ft-lb.
So... Then i started looking at things a little closer. Did a little research. The stock bolts are Grade 10.9. these are stronger than the Grade 8. The stock bolts are also beefier (More material, shoulder near the head, flanged heads/nuts and such)
So...... Now I'm freaking out a little. I have installed, nearly, the front 4 arms, With weaker bolts!! I guess I am going to re use the stock bolts. They are in pretty good condition. However I has to cut the bolts for the axle side LCAs to get them off. I will have to order those and the axle side UCAs (As someone else said bolts need to be longer here).
What say you TJ Forum?
To answer the above question; I reused my stock round washers.
Now to my question:
So... I am in the process of replacing my stock control arms with adjustable ones. I decided to replace all of the bolts with Grade 8 from Lowes. comparing the bolts the stock ones look more heavy duty. I figured well theses grade 8 bolts are the strongest so don't worry. I'm using grade 8 washers and grade 8 nyloc nuts.
So, here comes the issue. I stripped one of the new bolts on the upper control arms. (BTW I am using 1/2" on the LCAs and 3/8" on the UCAs.) Torque wrench set at 55 ft-lb.
So... Then i started looking at things a little closer. Did a little research. The stock bolts are Grade 10.9. these are stronger than the Grade 8. The stock bolts are also beefier (More material, shoulder near the head, flanged heads/nuts and such)
So...... Now I'm freaking out a little. I have installed, nearly, the front 4 arms, With weaker bolts!! I guess I am going to re use the stock bolts. They are in pretty good condition. However I has to cut the bolts for the axle side LCAs to get them off. I will have to order those and the axle side UCAs (As someone else said bolts need to be longer here).
What say you TJ Forum?
I would look on ebay. You can get a whole set of used bolts/nuts and it will likely be more cost effective than buying new OEM gear. Get some Evapo Rust to clean them up and you are good to go.
I believe they are Grade 8. They have the 5 marks on the heads. They came from the Lowes "Grade 8" bins.
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Everything I have read says 10.9 is superior to Grade 8. I know 10.9 is metric and Grade 8 is SAE. Also, as I previously said, the stock bolts definitely look beefier.
AND, If they are equivalent I should not be stripping bolts at factory torque specs. Maybe the nuts are not... I think they said Nyloc Grade C. Which I thought was Grade 8 equivalent.
AND, If they are equivalent I should not be stripping bolts at factory torque specs. Maybe the nuts are not... I think they said Nyloc Grade C. Which I thought was Grade 8 equivalent.
10.9 is roughly equivalent to Grade 8. 5 marks on the bolt head indicates a Grade 8, 3 marks indicates a Grade 5.
So maybe I just got a defective bolt?
3/8" Grade 8 seems to be the correct equivalent for M10 10.9.
What gives?
3/8" Grade 8 seems to be the correct equivalent for M10 10.9.
What gives?
liquidfluidity
TJ Enthusiast
I used the Johnny Joint washers. Perfect fit!
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Johnny-Joint-Washers_c80.htm
Try Bolt Depot , I can send you the part numbers of what I got if you want. I am also going to use the the Johnny joint washers.
If the grade 8 bolts have the same tensile strength as the 10.9, which it looks like they do, they should be up to task (Diameters being equal). I need to take a closer look at the failure mechanism of the 3/8" bolt. Also I will put my calipers on the thinnest part of each bolt, ID of the threads, and see how close they actually are. I will decide how to move forward at that point. I appreciate all of the replies.
suggestion- next time you take the bolts off - if they have locktite on them- heat them up- they come off easier.....
So after some quick measurements here are my findings. Keep in mind that my results are based on the geometry of the bolts I am using.
The minimum measured diameter of the M14 10.9 bolt was .478” which equates to an area of .179in^2.
The minimum measured diameter of the 1/2” grade 8 bolt was .429” which equates to an area of .145in^2
Assuming equal minimum tensile strengths the 1/2” grade 8 bolt has approximately 81% of the strength of the M14 10.9 bolt.
The minimum measured diameter of the M10 10.9 bolt was .347” which equates to an area of .095in^2.
The minimum measured diameter of the 3/8” grade 8 bolt was .329” which equates to an area of .085in^2
Assuming equal minimum tensile strengths the 3/8” grade 8 bolt has approximately 89% of the strength of the M10 10.9 bolt.
Based on my research I’m going to stick with the stock sized metric bolts. Again, keep in mind my results are directly based on the geometry of the bolts I have in front of me.
The minimum measured diameter of the M14 10.9 bolt was .478” which equates to an area of .179in^2.
The minimum measured diameter of the 1/2” grade 8 bolt was .429” which equates to an area of .145in^2
Assuming equal minimum tensile strengths the 1/2” grade 8 bolt has approximately 81% of the strength of the M14 10.9 bolt.
The minimum measured diameter of the M10 10.9 bolt was .347” which equates to an area of .095in^2.
The minimum measured diameter of the 3/8” grade 8 bolt was .329” which equates to an area of .085in^2
Assuming equal minimum tensile strengths the 3/8” grade 8 bolt has approximately 89% of the strength of the M10 10.9 bolt.
Based on my research I’m going to stick with the stock sized metric bolts. Again, keep in mind my results are directly based on the geometry of the bolts I have in front of me.
I found some M14 and M10 10.9 hardware locally. The M14 is visually larger in diameter than the 1/2” bolt. The M10 looks very similar to the 3/8” but it is actually a little thicker. Also note the differences in bolt head sizes. Metric 10.9 is silver and US Grade 8 is yellow zinc.
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