Early TJ Exhaust Manifold Recommendations

[HuskerJeep]

I'm searching for the most recommended exhaust manifold - '98 4.0L 5spd. I'm replacing mine due to cracking, not specifically for performance gains. I'm fine with OEM replacement and actually prefer a quiet TJ, but primarily looking for the best quality that won't crack again.

I've searched the forum and there are several other threads with a few suggestions and I thought I'd put them all in here and see if anyone has any recent experiences:

1. OEM Mopar on Rock Auto ($425, 2-year warranty)
2. Banks 51327 Torque Tube Revolver System ($365, 5-year warranty - I believe installed by at least @Kevin E )
3. ECCPP "OEM Style" Replacement ($87, 1-year warranty - link was provided by @Jerry Bransford, although I couldn't tell if he used this one specifically)
4. Dorman 674-196 ($154, "Limited Lifetime" warranty)

I'm ok with the cost of #1 or #2 as long as they last, I don't want to be putting another one in next year. What are everyone's thoughts on these, or others?

 

[superduty]

After much research i ended up going with a Dorman. Consensus seemed to be no brand in particular was special or would last longer than another. If you've never done the job, it's a PITA.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Chris]

2. Banks 51327 Torque Tube Revolver System ($365, 5-year warranty - Recommended by @Chris and I believe installed by at least @Kevin E )

I wouldn't recommend this to my worst enemy.

These things are cheap Chinese shit, just like all the other knock-offs on the market. I had two of them, both which cracked in under a year, both which were Banks.

They are made of thing, crap quality steel (just like all the others).

Unless you're going to put on a full long tube header like this:

https://americanracingheaders.com/collections/jeep/products/jeep-1998-2006-tj-4-0l-long-system
Then you're best sticking to the stock manifold for sure.

 

[HuskerJeep]

I wouldn't recommend this to my worst enemy.

These things are cheap Chinese shit, just like all the other knock-offs on the market. I had two of them, both which cracked in under a year, both which were Banks.

They are made of thing, crap quality steel (just like all the others).

Unless you're going to put on a full long tube header like this:

https://americanracingheaders.com/collections/jeep/products/jeep-1998-2006-tj-4-0l-long-system
Then you're best sticking to the stock manifold for sure.

Ah, well, ok...I was looking at your post from August of last year in one of the other threads, that must have been before the crack. That's too bad, but I appreciate the update.

 

[Chris]

Ah, well, ok...I was looking at your post from August of last year in one of the other threads, that must have been before the crack. That's too bad, but I appreciate the update.

No problem at all

I know better now to stay away from those cheap replacement exhaust manifolds, even the ones that claim the are "performance" upgrades

 

[HuskerJeep]

No problem at all

I know better now to stay away from those cheap replacement exhaust manifolds, even the ones that claim the are "performance" upgrades

What is the real difference between the Mopar and, for example, the Dorman 674-196? Mopar is $425 and the Dorman is $154. What am I really getting for the money with the Mopar?

 

[Chris]

What is the real difference between the Mopar and, for example, the Dorman 674-196? Mopar is $425 and the Dorman is $154. What am I really getting for the money with the Mopar?

Honestly, I'm not sure on this one. However, if I was in this situation, I wouldn't hesitate to go with the Dorman one as it's built to be an OE style replacement, so I don't think you'd have any issues.

If there was a difference between the two my guess is it would only boil down to the quality of metal used in both of them. However, that's just speculation and can't be proven.

 

[Camdenst]

I ran a borla for almost a decade on my 97 tj without issue. I will warn that the added heat may cause the paint on your hood to fade.

 

[Kevin E]

My Revolver header is fine so far. Been on dor a while now and I drive it daily.
I have a 98 Sport 5 speed also.

 

[HuskerJeep]

After much research i ended up going with a Dorman. Consensus seemed to be no brand in particular was special or would last longer than another. If you've never done the job, it's a PITA.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Thanks, I added that one to the list on the first post.

 

[ranger101]

Is the entire exhaust system too rigid, causing it to break at the weakest point? I’m in the same boat right now, mine just started ticking a few weeks ago. I replaced mine a few years ago before selling the Jeep so at this rate they’re only lasting 3-4yrs.

 

[HuskerJeep]

Is the entire exhaust system too rigid, causing it to break at the weakest point? I’m in the same boat right now, mine just started ticking a few weeks ago. I replaced mine a few years ago before selling the Jeep so at this rate they’re only lasting 3-4yrs.

I don't have an answer for you, but I did run across this thread by @HarleyMick that suggests a possible solution.

 

[rbullock]

I'm not an expert at anything. However, Rockauto, ECCPP and many others as you know don't "make" auto parts.
They buy and rebrand those items. I would bet they are the same Manifolds... Banks is a different story. I have been going back and forth on whether to change mine out now while my jeep is being rebuilt or just wait and see what happens, its twenty years old but doesn't leak. I chimed in not because I have an answer to your question but I would also like to hear what others think.

 

[ranger101]

I don't have an answer for you, but I did run across this thread by @HarleyMick that suggests a possible solution.

That was actually the thread I was thinking of. I may have to go that route this time around.

 

[toximus]

I wouldn't recommend this to my worst enemy.

These things are cheap Chinese shit, just like all the other knock-offs on the market. I had two of them, both which cracked in under a year, both which were Banks.

They are made of thing, crap quality steel (just like all the others).

Unless you're going to put on a full long tube header like this:

https://americanracingheaders.com/collections/jeep/products/jeep-1998-2006-tj-4-0l-long-system
Then you're best sticking to the stock manifold for sure.

If I remember correctly, the early model from Banks is fixed.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Is the entire exhaust system too rigid, causing it to break at the weakest point? I’m in the same boat right now, mine just started ticking a few weeks ago.

Yes, the fix is installing a good quality header with flexible steel flex joints at both sides like this one. They're all over Amazon.com and eBay, most have favorable reviews but that's the key to making a good decision, reading the reviews thoroughly and concentrating on the one star reviews to find the real truth.

Should look like this... notice the steel accordion-like flex joints which the original early factory header did not have. They're what was added to stop the cracking caused by the headers being flexed by engine torque.

 

[Hook_62]

just changed mine last Dec. with the Dorman, so probably only have maybe 6K mi. on it. so far it's good. cylinder 1 and 6 have the flex piece installed. from all the research I did at the time this was the one that got the best recommendations. all others crack even the name brands due to stress at those 2 pipes,,, just what I read.

 

[HuskerJeep]

just changed mine last Dec. with the Dorman, so probably only have maybe 6K mi. on it. so far it's good. cylinder 1 and 6 have the flex piece installed. from all the research I did at the time this was the one that got the best recommendations. all others crack even the name brands due to stress at those 2 pipes,,, just what I read.
View attachment 92286

Thanks, this is the one I'm leaning towards unless I hear a compelling reason not to in the next few hours.

 

[Hook_62]

Thanks, this is the one I'm leaning towards unless I hear a compelling reason not to in the next few hours.

The 2 bolts you see in the pic, I threw them in my parts bin and went down to local hardware store and got a couple stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts, just so I don't have to deal with locked up rusty bolts in the future, just sayin.

 

[ranger101]

Yes, the fix is installing a good quality header with flexible steel flex joints at both sides like this one. They're all over Amazon.com and eBay, most have favorable reviews but that's the key to making a good decision, reading the reviews thoroughly and concentrating on the one star reviews to find the real truth.

Should look like this... notice the steel accordion-like flex joints which the original early factory header did not have. They're what was added to stop the cracking caused by the headers being flexed by engine torque.

View attachment 92285

That’s exactly what I bought, in hopes of it not giving anyone trouble for a long time