If water was that kind of a problem, I would be in all kinds of trouble in other areas.
Yea true. What makes the E lockers interesting to you then?
If water was that kind of a problem, I would be in all kinds of trouble in other areas.
Yea true. What makes the E lockers interesting to you then?
The simplicity of the install and operation. There aren't any air seals to replace inside the diff. I don't have anything to support this concern, but I've wondered how long the ARB manifold inside the diff will last on a daily. It's quite a while based on people I know locally.
In the past I have commented on the e locker opening up during a direction change, but I don't know if that is a real problem. Or if the current design still does that.
What advantage, other than cost savings, would a Detroit up front give?
As they're inside the axle housing, they shouldn't be getting wet (water). If you are able to get water inside the housing, you're going to have all sorts of issues arise, I would think.Wouldn't the problem with those be that they are electric so if you happen to submerge them they get fried?
This. I've been noticing as I go through my build that this is true. I tried typing something to this effect earlier, but couldn't come up with the words... Blaine, as per the norm, has stated it pretty succinctly.He is 1/2 hour down the road from me on a good traffic day. It isn't a stretch to think that it won't be long before 33's are not as much fun as they should be not to mention that the only difference in 33's built correctly and running 35's, is a body lift and the difference in the cost of the tires.
Wouldn't the problem with those be that they are electric so if you happen to submerge them they get fried?
What advantage, other than cost savings, would a Detroit up front give?
For me, its the simplicity. Don't have to think about it, it just works. Of my "jeep buddies" I'm the only one with a selectable locker up front. The rest are running Spartans. They are every bit as capable, and they seem to work for driving around town too. If I ever blow up my rear Locker...I may go nuts and put the front locker in the rear, Sell the Dana 44 housing, and go High Pinion Dana 30 Front with a Spartan. I don't really lose much strength but I gain simplicity and clearance. Probably wouldn't cost me much either...I think that Front Dana 44 may sell for a premium to someone who doesn't know better!What advantage, other than cost savings, would a Detroit up front give?
Not really an advantage, just a simpler different way to accomplish the same thing, locked front axle. Transparent in 2wd, locked in 4 wd. The disadvantage is how you use the rig if you live where you need to drive on snowy and icy streets. You can't turn it off. We don't have that need so we run auto lockers up front in most of the builds we do.What advantage, other than cost savings, would a Detroit up front give?
That and most do NOT understand that the larger turning radius is not caused by the front, it is coming from the locked rear axle.For me, its the simplicity. Don't have to think about it, it just works. Of my "jeep buddies" I'm the only one with a selectable locker up front. The rest are running Spartans. They are every bit as capable, and they seem to work for driving around too. If I ever blow up my rear Locker...I may go nuts and put the front locker in the rear, Sell the Dana 44 housing, and go High Pinion Dana 30 Front with a Spartan. I don't really lose much strength but I gain simplicity and clearance. Probably wouldn't cost me much either...I think that Front Dana 44 may sell for a premium to someone who doesn't know better!
Not really an advantage, just a simpler different way to accomplish the same thing, locked front axle. Transparent in 2wd, locked in 4 wd. The disadvantage is how you use the rig if you live where you need to drive on snowy and icy streets. You can't turn it off. We don't have that need so we run auto lockers up front in most of the builds we do.
That and most do NOT understand that the larger turning radius is not caused by the front, it is coming from the locked rear axle.
I took the liberty of updating your cart.
35’s AT (If this is a daily driver or for better highway manners choose some good all terrains)
On 17” aluminum wheels - For bigger brakes and better tire selection than 16”
32RH - an auto has the advantage in the rocks when TC gearing is 2.72:1 over a manual geared the same
4.56 or 4.88 - depends on your on-road percentage of driving and length of drives. If rock crawling is on your wish list then choose 4.88’s IMHO
SYE - Required for lift and TT
Double Cardan DS - Again required.
Dana 44 Rear - will work just fine with axles and a locker
Dana 30 Front - will work just fine with axles and a locker
4” lift - >4” required for 35” with no BL
1” BL - required for TT or to run 35’s
Tummy Tuck - to look sexy - kidding, for better break-over angle
MML - required for TT
TCase Cable shifter - required for TT
AR or ORO Sway-Loc - for better off - road handling
Is this how you envision Barbara dressed?
I took the liberty of updating your cart.
35’s AT (If this is a daily driver or for better highway manners choose some good all terrains)
On 17” aluminum wheels - For bigger brakes and better tire selection than 16”
32RH - an auto has the advantage in the rocks when TC gearing is 2.72:1 over a manual geared the same
4.56 or 4.88 - depends on your on-road percentage of driving and length of drives. If rock crawling is on your wish list then choose 4.88’s IMHO
SYE - Required for lift and TT
Double Cardan DS - Again required.
Dana 44 Rear - will work just fine with axles and a locker
Dana 30 Front - will work just fine with axles and a locker
4” lift - >4” required for 35” with no BL
1” BL - required for TT or to run 35’s
Tummy Tuck - to look sexy - kidding, for better break-over angle
MML - required for TT
TCase Cable shifter - required for TT
AR or ORO Sway-Loc - for better off - road handling
Is this how you envision Barbara dressed?
Close to perfect. One other option...
3" Spring lift, 1" BL and a real highline, not the Metalcloak version. A real highline will require trimming sheetmetal in the rear and trimming the hood up front.