Barbara Sylvanas do it all build

Yea true. What makes the E lockers interesting to you then?

The simplicity of the install and operation. There aren't any air seals to replace inside the diff. I don't have anything to support this concern, but I've wondered how long the ARB manifold inside the diff will last on a daily. It's quite a while based on people I know locally.

In the past I have commented on the e locker opening up during a direction change, but I don't know if that is a real problem. Or if the current design still does that.
 
The simplicity of the install and operation. There aren't any air seals to replace inside the diff. I don't have anything to support this concern, but I've wondered how long the ARB manifold inside the diff will last on a daily. It's quite a while based on people I know locally.

In the past I have commented on the e locker opening up during a direction change, but I don't know if that is a real problem. Or if the current design still does that.

Well I'm not one to rule anything out so I'll take a look at the E Lockers and give them some thought.
 
Another thought I have had if I were to replace my factory lockers would be to do a Detroit front with a selectable rear. Especially if 4wd on pavement wasn't needed during the winter.
 
What advantage, other than cost savings, would a Detroit up front give?

It would just be there and do its thing while 4wd was engaged. Something I have learned recently and experienced first hand is that a locked front/open rear does little to restrict the steering.
 
Personal preference for me I like selectable’s at both ends gives you more options in my opinion
 
Wouldn't the problem with those be that they are electric so if you happen to submerge them they get fried?
As they're inside the axle housing, they shouldn't be getting wet (water). If you are able to get water inside the housing, you're going to have all sorts of issues arise, I would think.
 
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He is 1/2 hour down the road from me on a good traffic day. It isn't a stretch to think that it won't be long before 33's are not as much fun as they should be not to mention that the only difference in 33's built correctly and running 35's, is a body lift and the difference in the cost of the tires.
This. I've been noticing as I go through my build that this is true. I tried typing something to this effect earlier, but couldn't come up with the words... Blaine, as per the norm, has stated it pretty succinctly.
 
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What advantage, other than cost savings, would a Detroit up front give?
For me, its the simplicity. Don't have to think about it, it just works. Of my "jeep buddies" I'm the only one with a selectable locker up front. The rest are running Spartans. They are every bit as capable, and they seem to work for driving around town too. If I ever blow up my rear Locker...I may go nuts and put the front locker in the rear, Sell the Dana 44 housing, and go High Pinion Dana 30 Front with a Spartan. I don't really lose much strength but I gain simplicity and clearance. Probably wouldn't cost me much either...I think that Front Dana 44 may sell for a premium to someone who doesn't know better!
 
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What advantage, other than cost savings, would a Detroit up front give?
Not really an advantage, just a simpler different way to accomplish the same thing, locked front axle. Transparent in 2wd, locked in 4 wd. The disadvantage is how you use the rig if you live where you need to drive on snowy and icy streets. You can't turn it off. We don't have that need so we run auto lockers up front in most of the builds we do.
 
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For me, its the simplicity. Don't have to think about it, it just works. Of my "jeep buddies" I'm the only one with a selectable locker up front. The rest are running Spartans. They are every bit as capable, and they seem to work for driving around too. If I ever blow up my rear Locker...I may go nuts and put the front locker in the rear, Sell the Dana 44 housing, and go High Pinion Dana 30 Front with a Spartan. I don't really lose much strength but I gain simplicity and clearance. Probably wouldn't cost me much either...I think that Front Dana 44 may sell for a premium to someone who doesn't know better!
That and most do NOT understand that the larger turning radius is not caused by the front, it is coming from the locked rear axle.
 
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Eaton E-Locker in the rear. I love mine. Not opposed to ARB. John Currie likes Eaton.

Up front a lunchbox like the PowerTrax No Slip if you drive in ice and snow free zone
 
Not really an advantage, just a simpler different way to accomplish the same thing, locked front axle. Transparent in 2wd, locked in 4 wd. The disadvantage is how you use the rig if you live where you need to drive on snowy and icy streets. You can't turn it off. We don't have that need so we run auto lockers up front in most of the builds we do.


This is an important point and the main reason I have selectable lockers at both ends, that black ice is a bitch on a short WB vehicle even with an LSD.
 
That and most do NOT understand that the larger turning radius is not caused by the front, it is coming from the locked rear axle.

Sometimes under certain wet/muddy and off camber downhill conditions, I have found that It’s nice to have both ends engaged but not locked. Also a stress ball between your butt cheeks helps.
 
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I took the liberty of updating your cart. :LOL:

35’s AT (If this is a daily driver or for better highway manners choose some good all terrains)
On 17” aluminum wheels - For bigger brakes and better tire selection than 16”
32RH - an auto has the advantage in the rocks when TC gearing is 2.72:1 over a manual geared the same
4.56 or 4.88 - depends on your on-road percentage of driving and length of drives. If rock crawling is on your wish list then choose 4.88’s IMHO
SYE - Required for lift and TT
Double Cardan DS - Again required.
Dana 44 Rear - will work just fine with axles and a locker
Dana 30 Front - will work just fine with axles and a locker
4” lift - >4” required for 35” with no BL
1” BL - required for TT or to run 35’s
Tummy Tuck - to look sexy - kidding, for better break-over angle
MML - required for TT
TCase Cable shifter - required for TT
AR or ORO Sway-Loc - for better off - road handling

Is this how you envision Barbara dressed?
 
I took the liberty of updating your cart. :LOL:

35’s AT (If this is a daily driver or for better highway manners choose some good all terrains)
On 17” aluminum wheels - For bigger brakes and better tire selection than 16”
32RH - an auto has the advantage in the rocks when TC gearing is 2.72:1 over a manual geared the same
4.56 or 4.88 - depends on your on-road percentage of driving and length of drives. If rock crawling is on your wish list then choose 4.88’s IMHO
SYE - Required for lift and TT
Double Cardan DS - Again required.
Dana 44 Rear - will work just fine with axles and a locker
Dana 30 Front - will work just fine with axles and a locker
4” lift - >4” required for 35” with no BL
1” BL - required for TT or to run 35’s
Tummy Tuck - to look sexy - kidding, for better break-over angle
MML - required for TT
TCase Cable shifter - required for TT
AR or ORO Sway-Loc - for better off - road handling

Is this how you envision Barbara dressed?


Close to perfect. One other option...

3" Spring lift, 1" BL and a real highline, not the Metalcloak version. A real highline will require trimming sheetmetal in the rear and trimming the hood up front.
 
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I took the liberty of updating your cart. :LOL:

35’s AT (If this is a daily driver or for better highway manners choose some good all terrains)
On 17” aluminum wheels - For bigger brakes and better tire selection than 16”
32RH - an auto has the advantage in the rocks when TC gearing is 2.72:1 over a manual geared the same
4.56 or 4.88 - depends on your on-road percentage of driving and length of drives. If rock crawling is on your wish list then choose 4.88’s IMHO
SYE - Required for lift and TT
Double Cardan DS - Again required.
Dana 44 Rear - will work just fine with axles and a locker
Dana 30 Front - will work just fine with axles and a locker
4” lift - >4” required for 35” with no BL
1” BL - required for TT or to run 35’s
Tummy Tuck - to look sexy - kidding, for better break-over angle
MML - required for TT
TCase Cable shifter - required for TT
AR or ORO Sway-Loc - for better off - road handling

Is this how you envision Barbara dressed?

Haha I'll add this to the starting post to keep it updated. Barbara will be causing whip lash with all this.
 
Close to perfect. One other option...

3" Spring lift, 1" BL and a real highline, not the Metalcloak version. A real highline will require trimming sheetmetal in the rear and trimming the hood up front.

I would love a real high line but I know they are really rare so it'll depend on when I get to this step