Question about bump stop vs available travel

[Derek b]

Don't forget if you spend over $200 you get $50 back. So make sure you're not buying a set for $199

Link was old.... Ill look for a new one.

ENDED MAY 31st

ahh thanks for trying!

 

[Derek b]

What shocks do you have now?

My Jeep is no cadillac thats for sure but it rides pretty darn good for a lifted solid axled short wheelbase vehicle.

Something else that can have a tremendous affect on ride quality, what size tires and pressure are you running?

right now i have some skyjacker hydros that were on there from the PO when i got the jeep back in 2014. When i pulled the back off, it jsut sounds awful when i compress and extend it. and theres such little resistance. And i have 33in goodyear duratrac. Load C i think. I run them at 28 for a year or 2 now when i used to have them at 32. That helped for a bit when i first started noticing it getting rougher. But its just not cutting it now.

 

[jjvw]

With 33s, you might benefit from a bit more lift of some kind to increase the up travel.

 

[xxdabroxx]

You could likely go a couple pounds lower in the tires too and see how they wear, 24-26 is pretty common. Unless your Jeep is really heavy, mine is relatively light, soft top, no extra gas, etc. I think I'm running around 22-24 in my current baja claws. Different tires wear better at higher or lower pressures too though.

 

[Derek b]

With 33s, you might benefit from a bit more lift of some kind to increase the up travel.

Ill let you talk to my wife. haha. shes ok with the shock purchase right now because the ride has gotten so rough. But adding more lift probably isnt in my immediate future. haha

 

[Derek b]

You could likely go a couple pounds lower in the tires too and see how they wear, 24-26 is pretty common. Unless your Jeep is really heavy, mine is relatively light, soft top, no extra gas, etc. I think I'm running around 22-24 in my current baja claws. Different tires wear better at higher or lower pressures too though.

I might check that out. Ive read of the chalk test. I havent done it yet. But i havent seen any uneven wear from running at 28 for so long. But if i can go lower, i might do that test at some point.

 

[jjvw]

Ill let you talk to my wife. haha. shes ok with the shock purchase right now because the ride has gotten so rough. But adding more lift probably isnt in my immediate future. haha

A small body lift is fairly inexpensive and will help move things out of the way.

 

[bobthetj03]

She won't notice a small 1/2" body lift. RS55239 front/RS55241 rear, 2" bump stop extensions. That will give you 5" up, 4" down and should keep the bulk of the rubbing to just a little flare scuffing at full stuff.

 

[xxdabroxx]

Ill let you talk to my wife. haha. shes ok with the shock purchase right now because the ride has gotten so rough. But adding more lift probably isnt in my immediate future. haha

You can likely get a body lift for what you are saving on the less expensive shocks. My jeep has a 4" suspension lift so you would end up being about where I am really. I've thought about going to a 3" with a 1.25" body lift. Go with the Savvy Offroad body lift if you do. I think in the long run I'll keep the 4" springs and end up adding a body lift when I go to 35" tires. The body lift opens up a lot of other mods in the process, raised gas tank, raised transfer case skid, etc.

 

[Derek b]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I might look into a body lift. How would the body lift allow for a raised transfer skid plate? I have a dropped skid right now, from the lift that was installed. I've read that to be able to raise that back up, I would need to get a SYE kit.

 

[Sundowner]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I might look into a body lift. How would the body lift allow for a raised transfer skid plate? I have a dropped skid right now, from the lift that was installed. I've read that to be able to raise that back up, I would need to get a SYE kit.

The body moves up and out of the way of the raised transfer case, thus de-limiting the case position.

 

[xxdabroxx]

You could also add a motor mount lift (also pretty cheap) with your body lift and likely get rid of your dropped skid. I think, you'd need to do a little more research on that front.

$50 https://www.extremeterrain.com/zone-offroad-1-motor-mount-lift-8706-yj-tj.html?utm_content=XT Engine and Performance - Other|Zone Offroad&T5_Var4=J110870&intl=0&utm_campaign=XTW+Wrangler+Vehicle+Medium&dialogtech=ppc&utm_source=google-pla&utm_medium=shopping&T5_Var2=shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwuqfoBRAEEiwAZErCsgAs6Fw7iMioBc88c9269Vd8kr1iDQfL8RxmlkudPA8_y7NM75iKbxoC7DwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

$135 https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-bltj/

Gets you more fender clearance for your tires, likely gets you the ability to get rid of the transfer case drop, and sets you up for raising the belly later as well as the gas tank.

Double check me on the transfer case drop but I believe that is accomplishing the same thing as the motor mount lift its just lowering the back rather than raising the front of the motor.

 

[Derek b]

The body moves up and out of the way of the raised transfer case, thus de-limiting the case position.

I thought the reason for dropping the skid plate when installing a lift, was the keep the driveline angles between the transfer case and your rear driveshaft, in a stock position. Raising that back up to its normal position would put the driveshaft at bad angles. To fix you have to rotate the rear axel a bit with adjustable control arms, and also get the SYE to ease that angle going into the transfercase.

I didnt think the body of the jeep being in the way of the transfercase had anything to do with it?

 

[xxdabroxx]

I thought the reason for dropping the skid plate when installing a lift, was the keep the driveline angles between the transfer case and your rear driveshaft, in a stock position. Raising that back up to its normal position would put the driveshaft at bad angles. To fix you have to rotate the rear axel a bit with adjustable control arms, and also get the SYE to ease that angle going into the transfercase.

I didnt think the body of the jeep being in the way of the transfercase had anything to do with it?

See my post above. If you move the front of the motor up it accomplishes the same thing as dropping the rear.

It also sets you up for more room to raise the belly with a flatter skid in the future.

 

[Sundowner]

I thought the reason for dropping the skid plate when installing a lift, was the keep the driveline angles between the transfer case and your rear driveshaft, in a stock position. Raising that back up to its normal position would put the driveshaft at bad angles. To fix you have to rotate the rear axel a bit with adjustable control arms, and also get the SYE to ease that angle going into the transfercase.

I didnt think the body of the jeep being in the way of the transfercase had anything to do with it?

You're talking about two different issues. In your previous question, you asked "How would the body lift allow for a raised transfer skid plate?"...and the answer to that question was what I provided. To elaborate:

The vertical position of the transfer case is limited by what sits above it - in this case, the body and some linkage-shaped bits - and determined by the placement of the transfer case skid, which is what holds the case in place. In the factory configuration - stock lift, stock skid, stock mount - there's a bit of space above the case, so you can raise the case a bit without working on anything other than the skid and the mount...but if you raise the body in relation to the frame via a body lift, you can then raise the case and its skid by an equivalent amount, gaining much more clearance than is possible without either 1) a body lift, or 2) reshaping the body above the case for more clearance. Thus, installing the body lift de-limits the upward movement of the case. Please note that this has nothing to do with driveline angles or their function: we're only talking about physically moving the case. Making the case actually work with the driveline is a more complicated process, and it entails some of what you and others have mentioned.

 

[Derek b]

See my post above. If you move the front of the motor up it accomplishes the same thing as dropping the rear.

It also sets you up for more room to raise the belly with a flatter skid in the future.

hmm. still kind fuzzy when i picture it in my head. Has anyone ever made a diagram of the changes in angels from installing motor mount lifts, or SYE? Would i still need to get adjustable rear control arms to be able to adjust the angle of the rear differential? And do i have this right, by raising the motor, would that rotate my transmission and transfer case up in the front, causing the angle of the shaft coming out the back of the transfer case to not be as sharp, removing the need of the SYE?

 

[Derek b]

You're talking about two different issues. In your previous question, you asked "How would the body lift allow for a raised transfer skid plate?"...and the answer to that question was what I provided. To elaborate:

The vertical position of the transfer case is limited by what sits above it - in this case, the body and some linkage-shaped bits - and determined by the placement of the transfer case skid, which is what holds the case in place. In the factory configuration - stock lift, stock skid, stock mount - there's a bit of space above the case, so you can raise the case a bit without working on anything other than the skid and the mount...but if you raise the body in relation to the frame via a body lift, you can then raise the case and its skid by an equivalent amount, gaining much more clearance than is possible without either 1) a body lift, or 2) reshaping the body above the case for more clearance. Thus, installing the body lift de-limits the upward movement of the case. Please note that this has nothing to do with driveline angles or their function: we're only talking about physically moving the case. Making the case actually work with the driveline is a more complicated process, and it entails some of what you and others have mentioned.

ahh ok gotcha. I misunderstood you the first time.

 

[xxdabroxx]

Basically yes. Although I'm not 100% sure as I haven't done it myself, I bought my jeep with a SYE. I added adjustable control arms to get rid of the transfer case drop that it had when I bought it.

A motor mount lift raises the front of the engine. A transfer case drop lowers the back of the engine effectively making the resulting drivetrain angle similar. You may still need a little bit of drop with the raised motor mounts which could be accomplished standard flat washers between the skid and the frame.

 

[Sundowner]

hmm. still kind fuzzy when i picture it in my head. Has anyone ever made a diagram of the changes in angels from installing motor mount lifts, or SYE?

I've seen diagrams, but you don't need one. Go look at where all the mounts are, and imagine moving them an inch or so, either up or down. It'll clear up when you stick your head in there.

Would i still need to get adjustable rear control arms to be able to adjust the angle of the rear differential?

That depends on the relationship between the transfer case output and the rear driveshaft, and the relationship between the driveshaft and the rear diff input: f the operating angles of the universals aren't close enough, you'll need to adjust something, and adjustable control arms allow that (and other things). They're a good investment, regardless.

And do i have this right, by raising the motor, would that rotate my transmission and transfer case up in the front...

All other things being equal: yes.

...causing the angle of the shaft coming out the back of the transfer case to not be as sharp...

All other things still being equal: yes.

...removing the need of the SYE?

Probably not, but: maybe. Again, it depends on how much alteration is being made, and - again - the SYE isn't a bad investment.

 

[06TJ35's]

Savvy 1.25” Body lift is back ordered 1-2 weeks. Just a heads up if you decided to get it.