Will that mount work with the Exogate though? The Exogate has a lip around the edge that sticks out about 1" or so.
Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
Some light trimming on that lip would fit it up nice. I’m getting the whole setup so I can let you know.
If they ask questions I think it'd be just personally asking the questions. When I bought my tires I bought the certs since the guy on the phone said that off road use is covered.
I made that mistake too. When DT mounted the tires on my wife's khaki TJ they only had one size of valve stem. I should have bought a set online and brought them with to be installed.
Good to know, since I ended up paying. I hemmed on it a while and they threw in a cert for free, so it seems there’s some negotiating room.
That's good to know. I had price matched a set of tires to like half price or something ridiculous (I'm sure below their cost) and they had no qualms about it.
OP
On the topic of the wheels that will eventually get shorter valve stems, I am faced with a dilemma between fashion and practically. I want to keep the Moab design, but get away from the 16" wheel size.
The Mamba MRX1 is a 15" copy of the Moab. But the silver powder coat looks cheap, thick and ugly. And it's a Chinese wheel, which now has me concerned after discovering my dented wheel yesterday. Months ago, I started stripping the powder coat on a Mamba. While I like what I found under the thick PC, it's miserable work do do all five, plus the two I would put on my little trailer. And if I dent another wheel, I get to suffer through making a replacement. And it's still a Chinese wheel. And I'm most likely trapped running a 15" Vanco BBK kit, when that happens some day in the future.
The sane part of me says to get a set of JK 17" Moabs. I already run spacers, so wheel adaptors don't bother me. These are factory quality wheels. Full sets are inexpensive on Craigslist. A damaged wheel is easy to replace. And I can run a larger BBK. I just don't like the 17" wheel size as much as I like the 15".
Do I already know what I should do?
The Mamba MRX1 is a 15" copy of the Moab. But the silver powder coat looks cheap, thick and ugly. And it's a Chinese wheel, which now has me concerned after discovering my dented wheel yesterday. Months ago, I started stripping the powder coat on a Mamba. While I like what I found under the thick PC, it's miserable work do do all five, plus the two I would put on my little trailer. And if I dent another wheel, I get to suffer through making a replacement. And it's still a Chinese wheel. And I'm most likely trapped running a 15" Vanco BBK kit, when that happens some day in the future.
The sane part of me says to get a set of JK 17" Moabs. I already run spacers, so wheel adaptors don't bother me. These are factory quality wheels. Full sets are inexpensive on Craigslist. A damaged wheel is easy to replace. And I can run a larger BBK. I just don't like the 17" wheel size as much as I like the 15".
Do I already know what I should do?
I would just take the Mambas to someone to get stripped and blasted if you like them. Takes the work off of you. A 15" brake kit is more than enough for 35's. By the time you want larger tires than that, you're swapping axles and brakes anyways.
You could also go with other style wheels or beadlocks (something I'm looking to do within the next few months). There are plenty of aftermarket wheels that look OK (but maybe not as good as the factory Moabs).
Sounds like you will be compromising. I remember you mentioned the possibility of bumping to 35's. What are your thoughts on going with a 34 x 1050 x 17 tire? I believe they make a "D" load Ridge Grappler in that size, and of course the KO2.
OP
Having the Mambas professionally stripped isn't nearly as cost effective as I want it to be. Especially for a Chinese wheel.
Beadlocks would be great, but that isn't in the budget for a while.
It seems like it, and once you go to 35s the 17” will look about right (though on 33s it looks a little off). Someone around here mentioned a “double” of the wheel to the tire being the sweet spot of looking good, which I think is pretty accurate.
OP
35s will happen either this spring or on the set after. However, I want the wheel dilemma settled by spring.
Beadlocks are expensive, which is why I've waited so long to get them. I heard air burping out of my tires at only 11 PSI on Holy Cross which is why I'm trying to get them ASAP. I have no want to risk blowing a bead even though they are fairly easy to reseat.
I would just shop around aftermarket wheels and see what you can find. There isn't a perfect answer it seems.
This stuff works wonders:
https://www.eastwood.com/ew-down-to-metal-paint-powder-stripper-qt.html
Make sure you wear gloves and a respirator. It's nasty stuff.
OP
There are only a few BL I would consider for aesthetic reasons. And before that, I would need to rule out internal beadlocks. I want to keep the Jeep looking boring and ordinary for what it is.
I've been looking for fairly stealth beadlocks as well. As much as I hate to say it, I really can't find all that many. I saw a photo a while back of what looked to be a moab modified to be a beadlock that I really like (I think you may have even posted the photo).
I would go with Racelines, but they are too flashy. Really thinking I'm going to bite the bullet and get trail readys.
Beadlocks are heavier too. Even aluminum. Spinning those is going to be tiresome in Denver and the mountains.
OP
Haven't seen the Eastwood. Jasco Premium Paint &Epoxy Remover wasn't quite aggressive enough. I have a can of Kleen Strip Aircraft Paint Remover that is supposed to be harsher, but I just don't want to do it.
OP
It's somewhere back in here. There is a company that will re-machine the outer bead and attach a lock ring. They can look really great, but you really pay for it.
Hutchinson also made a Moab inspired beadlock. But, in addition to the expense, it looks funny.