Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

jjvw said:
It's somewhere back in here. There is a company that will re-machine the outer bead and attach a lock ring. They can look really great, but you really pay for it.

Hutchinson also made a Moab inspired beadlock. But, in addition to the expense, it looks funny.
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Found the two I was thinking of. I would pay a lot of money for either of these if anyone offers it anymore...

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Beadlocks.jpg
 
jodomcfrodo said:
Found the two I was thinking of. I would pay a lot of money for either of these if anyone offers it anymore...

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View attachment 114726
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The top set is the modified stock wheel and really looks great.

The Hutchinson below reminds me of the woodworker who's only fancy tool is a router with a round over bit and he's going to use it whenever possible.
 
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jjvw said:
Haven't seen the Eastwood. Jasco Premium Paint &Epoxy Remover wasn't quite aggressive enough. I have a can of Kleen Strip Aircraft Paint Remover that is supposed to be harsher, but I just don't want to do it.
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When I used it on the factory frame and paint there was little work left for me to do aside from vacuuming up the floor. The paint started peeling within seconds down to the metal. Even my brush deteriorated within a few minutes of using it and I had to go to the store to buy an entire pack of brushes. If I hated someone I'd slap some of it on their car.
 
toximus said:
When I used it on the factory frame and paint there was little work left for me to do aside from vacuuming up the floor. The paint started peeling within seconds down to the metal. Even my brush deteriorated within a few minutes of using it and I had to go to the store to buy an entire pack of brushes. If I hated someone I'd slap some of it on their car.
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And with a wheel, you could easily put it in a garbage bag and set it out in the sun for a spell. Little trick I learned in my body shop days.
 
toximus said:
When I used it on the factory frame and paint there was little work left for me to do aside from vacuuming up the floor. The paint started peeling within seconds down to the metal. Even my brush deteriorated within a few minutes of using it and I had to go to the store to buy an entire pack of brushes. If I hated someone I'd slap some of it on their car.
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With the Mamba powder coat, the Jasco would take the first 2-3 layers off fairly easily. But whatever they use as a base filler layer needed to be scrubbed and kept submerged in the stripper to stay soft.
 
bobthetj03 said:
And with a wheel, you could easily put it in a garbage bag and set it out in the sun for a spell. Little trick I learned in my body shop days.
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The wheel was wrapped in a heavy trash bag filled with stripper. That mess was in a plastic tub.
 
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If you are going to 35's I wouldn't hesitate running a 17" wheel. IMO the proportions with that combo look better. Never liked a fat 35 on a 15" wheel.
 
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I’m in the same dilemma. But after hours of research and the future being in 17s I decided to go up instead of down. Wrapped up in some 35s it will look great - plus you can adjust the jk backspacing with an endless amount of spacer widths.
 
BuildBreakRepeat said:
... - plus you can adjust the jk backspacing with an endless amount of spacer widths.
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I've been studying that. JK wheels look to be 6.25" BS. I think I will need 3.5". That is a 2.75" thick adapter. I've seen 2" from Titan and 1.25 from Spidertrax. Are people stacking spacers?
 
This is 100% a guess, but since some states outlaw spacers entirely, I can't imagine stacked spacers is a good idea.
 
Titan has TJ>JK adapters from 1-2" in .25" increments. I don't see anything thicker than that.
 
That definitely throws a wrench in the 17” JK wheel idea, if I understand your posts right it sounds like it would be too tight.
 
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