What was the reason if the opportunity was plainly there? In your case, everything is altered in some way, including a custom pitman arm.
Keep in mind if anyone does swap in a steering box with more turns lock to lock that you don't max out the steering wheel clock spring cable for the airbag.
This is a cool idea. I have thought about doing something similar in the rear behind the shock outboard. It would raise the tank and departure angle. And cure the crack. nobody wants to see that.
I see only two things being affected in the end, Antirock end link lengths (easy) and difference in pitman arm length (harder)The rear will happen on mine, without question. It's less complicated and there is precedence of it being done successfully in various forms.
The front end is somewhat murky. To me at least. This is an aggressive modification since the steering and track bar are directly involved. I understand how to do the physical work. Ultimately, what I'm trying to do with this thread is figure out the arguments against it. For those who have the opportunity to do this, why is it not done? Is the end result not meaningful? What gets screwed up by doing this?
Keep in mind if anyone does swap in a steering box with more turns lock to lock that you don't max out the steering wheel clock spring cable for the airbag.
What was the reason if the opportunity was plainly there? In your case, everything is altered in some way, including a custom pitman arm.
35s, 19-20ish, 94ish
VERY GENTLY! Any time I needed to find clock spring center I removed the wheel and rotated the clock spring by finger pressure only.There is about an extra 3 turns available (1-1/2 turn each direction) compared to the TJ steering box. As long as your clock spring is centered.
Edit: You can find the clock spring stops by GENTLY(!) disconnecting the shaft and turning the steering wheel stop to stop.
Look at other Jeeps with those specs, see what they are doing well and not well. Would a raised front bumper help or would spending that same effort on something else be more beneficial and then reassess raising the front at a later date?
I am planning to do a front stretch similar to the TNT kit this winter in which the steering box gets rotated upward. And I move the front tube in the frame ends my anti rock is in. I can see doing all this work for that benefit. But if I was just looking for a better approach angle I would chop a few inches off the front frame rails and relocate the tube for your Antirock. It would eliminate the gap behind the bumper that the factory sway bar goes and gain you more approach angle than raising it 1.25” I would imagine.
I understand wanting to get the whole bumper up higher, but maybe a simpler approach to get the steering box out of harms way is to relocate the steering box mount sleeves 1.25" higher in the frame and use the XJ pitman to restore geometry.
Is there enough room in the front cross member tube with the antirock to cut a notch for the front of the steering box?