While off-roading I noticed a few issues I'd like to question

I'll have to check that, my initial action upon returning to my garage was to put it on the lift and turn each wheel by hand and verifying no binds and that each one spun the drive shaft. And when in locked low that all wheels spun without any binding.
 
It's been forever since i wheeled in deep snow, but i seem to remember that feeling of "hoping". Sand does the same thing sometimes. The tire starts spinning and brakes traction for a second, then new lugs grab a handful of traction that holds for a fraction of a second, then breaks. The cycle repeats. It's my theory. Link suspension does not allow for any twisting of the axle.

As for the bump steer... My TJ does the same thing. When going over a speed bump or such, the steering wheel moved left or right a small amount (1/2"). It's not enough to change steering, ie the Jeep tracks straight, but it does shimmy the wheel slightly. I have theories, but nothing solid.
 
So hopping is normal to an extent from what I gather. Thank you.

As for the bump steer felt, I also noticed that when taking off from a stop, the jeep obviously lifts a little and my steering wheel will clock left slightly but still track semi straight. Is it possible that maybe my lift is a little out of rear for the short arm and drag link/track bars intended arc swing?

It's supposed to be a 4" lift but springs are stiff older gen 1 teraflex kit from way back in 04 along with the arms. I'll have to get an exact measurement on the comparison from stock to these springs and will report back.
 
Sounds like the effect you get as the tires gain & lose traction. As your going up the train, the jeep will "hunt" slightly as it gains traction, then loses it, then regains it. Lighten up a bit on the throttle & let the tires do the work.
 
I have the Coopers as well. IMHO, if you want your rig to perform correctly in snow, use bona fide snow tires.
 
I get hopping in deep snow sometimes, usually I just back off and go at it again with higher wheel speed seems to work out better.
 
I tend to agree with those eluding to the hopping in deep snow being caused by suddenly loosing and regaining traction. My job takes me over a snow covered dirt mountain pass every winter and it happens a lot, in my TJ, in a lifted 86 Grand Wagoneer, and a 2010 Ram 3500. When you start adding up all the back lash from front differential through the transfer case and into the rear differential it adds up to enough to momentarily spin one end while the other does not spin and it oscillates from front to rear especially while climbing hills. The only way to stop is to back off the throttle and ease back into it. You might try slightly lower air pressure to gain more traction.
 
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By far. All responses made sense till you mentioned the lash all adding up. Thank you for that mental image, thinking of it in that way makes more sense because I had the front and rear diffs locked and the part time 4x4 is essentially locking in the middle so I thought there couldn't be any wiggle room then you said differential gear lash being just enough to cause my oscillation.

Now is this a similar theory for when I'm climbing in snow and let's say I'm stuck so I start giving it gas and the front tires start to grab traction and start to oscillate left to right even though I'm holding the steering wheel straight?
 
I don't see anything alarming, locked if you turn the steering wheel everything you said is completely normal. All the tires locked want to travel the same distance but if you turn, every tire travels a different distance and the steering wheel will wobble, the suspension will jump.

Bump steer is the reaction to lifting the suspension. The pivot on the frame is now higher than the pivot on the axle.
 
By far. All responses made sense till you mentioned the lash all adding up. Thank you for that mental image, thinking of it in that way makes more sense because I had the front and rear diffs locked and the part time 4x4 is essentially locking in the middle so I thought there couldn't be any wiggle room then you said differential gear lash being just enough to cause my oscillation.

Now is this a similar theory for when I'm climbing in snow and let's say I'm stuck so I start giving it gas and the front tires start to grab traction and start to oscillate left to right even though I'm holding the steering wheel straight?
Are you referring to when you have your wheels turned to the left or right when you are experiencing that? If so that hop is typical of a ujoint style steering axle the more traction you have the more it will hop especially when your diff is locked.
 
No, what i am referring to is when I was on the snow trail. I had the jeep both locked and unlocked. When I was stuck and slowly gaining traction I looked outside my window to see the front wheels bouncing left to right but I had my steering wheel held in a straight ahead position when I noticed the movement.
Are you referring to when you have your wheels turned to the left or right when you are experiencing that? If so that hop is typical of a ujoint style steering axle the more traction you have the more it will hop especially when your diff is locked.
 
No, what i am referring to is when I was on the snow trail. I had the jeep both locked and unlocked. When I was stuck and slowly gaining traction I looked outside my window to see the front wheels bouncing left to right but I had my steering wheel held in a straight ahead position when I noticed the movement.
The little bit of play/free movement in your steering box you described in an earlier post could account for that if your tires were grabbing traction at different times. What condition is your steering damper in?
 
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So heres a few things I've noticed while trailing my jeep thru the trails, mud and snow and wanted to ask what's normal and what I should look into.

1. While pushing thru a fair bit of snow in 4lo and locked on some parts of the trails I've noticed that the front and or rear sometimes both would act as if they were wrapping. I thought axle wrap was more so with a leaf sprung suspension setup so it caught me off guard.

2.1 Similar situation as number 1 but while gaining traction and turning the wheels I would see and feel the front wheels oscillate left to right kinds like death wobble where the front wheels push and pull and shake the wheel. Never experienced this so it was something I wanted to question.

3. I finally setup the suspension front and rear and my currie steering system along with a OME steering stabilizer. While driving down the road thru slight dips or uneven road I will experience bump steer. The wheel moves left or right. It's not violent but its there. No drop pitman arm, adjustable teraflex track bar that's been adjusted and centered. Not sure what else would cause it.

4. Steering wheel play, I have a light dead spot. It's small and I feel when going down the road the front will track and I can feel the slight pull left or right depending on how the front is tracking. The steering shaft will move but the pitman arm wont move in this small window of dead space. I can also remove the drag link and grab the pitman arm and feel the small movement as if maybe its lash or something in the gearbox. Also noticed that when I'm steered full lock and play with the dead space in the wheel, the pitman arm has a VERY small amount of fore/aft play. Only slightly. The gearbox does not leak and the jeep currently has 47k miles.

I think everybody pretty much answered all these the same way I'm about to, but I'll throw in my interpretation anyway.

1: Just as others are saying, you'll experience the same in sand depending on conditions. Jeep's grabbing handfuls of snow in this case, pulling it back, and grabbing again, which results in an oscillation that just keeps building and can end up getting violent, especially on a steep climb when the front is light. A lot of environmental variables that can make this violent, or non existent at different times.

2: If you're going slow and feeling this, under traction, it's binding in the drive line. Locked, all 4 tires are trying to travel different distances with the same amount of rotation. This will even be present with axles unlocked to a lesser extent, you've still got one front and one rear tire, either left or right, that's trying to travel at the same speed.

However, what it sounds like more to me, is typical operation of a universal joint axle shaft. U-joints do not spin at a steady speed when turned, they actually "lunge." I've never broken a front shaft off road but I have some friends that would every time we went out. I'd watch them get stuck in a hole or obstacle and with the wheels spinning, saw the wheel back and forth. At the furthest extent of steering lock the tires would be wobbling so much the u-joint would give in from shock loading.

This is a great video to help visualize it. It explains why you need to phase your driveshafts, but also explains the oscillation in the front tires with the wheel cut. In this instance, your pinion gear is providing a constant rotational force and speed, and due to the operating angle at the u-joint the tire is speeding up and slowing down in quick succession. RCV shafts are constant velocity joints and largely eliminate this effect, one of the many reasons they are considerably stronger.

Driveshaft Angle and Phasing

It's also possible that one of the axle shaft u-joints is getting worn out and seizing up a bit, that can exaggerate the feeling.

3: As long as your track bar and drag link are parallel, there's really nothing more to do about it. A small amount of movement of the wheel is not unusual, and will be more obvious as you're lifted higher, for a few reasons. Because of the factory "inverted Y" steering setup on these Jeeps, as your front axle drops, the toe goes in. This is because the angle from the steering box to the right tire has increased. As long as the drag link and track bar are parallel, this has no direct affect on the right tire. However, the tie rod from the left tire attaches partway up the drag link, so as that angle increases it also pulls the left tire in. The opposite is true for compression, and the difference is greater with more suspension lift. Also, that force can slightly deflect the drag link itself, which is why the Currie steering feels so much more solid from the driver's seat over stock. Jeep elimnated this whole dance by switching to a knuckle-to-knuckle steering setup on the JK. Anyway, now the condition of traction on the ground has changed. Track bars of course also travel in and arc, so there's a whole lateral load being applied between the sprung and unsprung weight of the vehicle as the suspension is rapidly cycling. If it's an uneven bump, being a solid axle vehicle, anything that happens to one side affects the other. So as one tire hits a dip, toe is affected, lateral load between the axle and frame changes, and contact patch and center of drive force on the pavement changes. This can result in a a bit of wandering of the steering, worse with wider tires. Still at no point should you be fighting it, feeling any continuing oscillation afterwards, or have the Jeep darting either way. Usually all of this movement and motion and variables just adds up to a tiny wiggle of the steering wheel.

4: There are a lot of places to have slack build up. There is at least one (might be a couple, can't remember) ujoints on the steering shaft, natural lash in the steering box, and sometimes some roll in the tie rod ends. As long as it's minor I wouldn't worry about it. Yet another downside to solid axle life.



And of course all these small changes can transmit into axle movement a bit. Your control arm bushing are all new and tight as you said, but if they're the rubber style, there's still a damping element that allows a small amount of movement and what I always refer to as a "fluttering" feeling when you hit bumps, gain traction, etc. When I went to Johnny Joints on my control arms a lot of that minor fluttering went away, but I could still tell there was a small amount, and that went away when I welded in the last two JJs on top of the front axle.
 
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The little bit of play/free movement in your steering box you described in an earlier post could account for that if your tires were grabbing traction at different times. What condition is your steering damper in?
Brand new bilstein shocks, ome steering damper, currie steering system, teraflex front track bar.
 
Brand new bilstein shocks, ome steering damper, currie steering system, teraflex front track bar.
Now that I'm reading that I remember you stating that in your original post. Without actually seeing your Jeep in person and experiencing it first had, from every thing you have described, I'd say most of what is happening is pretty normal other than the amount of free movement in your steering box. It is possible to adjust the worm gear to take up some of it if it feels like there is too much but you don't want it too tight either.
 
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So I've begun that process of adjusting the gear lash in my gearbox. Originally I did an 1/8 turn tighter but I want to properly set it so I will more than likely remove it and set it per the Manufacturer's specs then reinstall it and run fresh ATF+4 thru it. I'll also probably flush my cooling system while I'm in there making a mess of things.

As for the intermittent steering shafts, the ujoints are all good. Jeep has 47k on the clock now. Only play I have is the clunk when I rack my steering left to right fast which I inspected and found was that center support bearing that's non greasable. Its bone dry and the shaft moves around inside of this bearing part. I also have some clunking where the upper shaft goes thru the firewall.

I found the correct setup procedure for setting the lash on the mercedes gearbox so I'll be doing that soon. I cant afford a new box and I've not hear very much on those who own aftermarket systems. I'm also not too keen on having to downgrade my parts to 02 and prior to accommodate an "upgraded" part.
 
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