WWWTJF do? LJ Rubicon re-gear edition

[Sea Cot]

I have an LJR on 315s w/ stock gears and properly working OEM lockers. I want to re-gear to 4.88, and have a few options to decide from.

Parts I currently have for this endeavor

• drum brake TJ Dana 44 rebuilt, 0 miles, with 4.88s and ARB RD116. The drums are off, I would have to convert to disc brakes and swap out the pinion yoke
• (1) new in box thick Yukon 4.88 gear set for TJ-R.
• (1) new in box ARB RD117
• (1) ARB twin air compressor
• (1) rebuilt HP Dana 30 w/ 4.88s and open carrier

Options. . .
Option A: acquire a 2nd thick gear set (Genright has Yukon TJR on closeout), R&R gears and re-use OEM lockers
Option B: install gears & RD117 up front, acquire gears and locker for the rear and keep the stock housing.
Option C: install gears & RD117 up front, swap in drum-brake axle after purchasing disc brake conversion and new pinion yoke & seal.
Option D: same as C, but scavenge brakes (BMB pads & rotors) and yoke from Rubicon rear
Option E: 4.88 up front with OEM locker, RD117 out back and acquire gears.
Option F: ?????

If I choose to remove OEM lockers, the wiring and pump will be removed. The switch will be removed if both lockers go. I'm not concerned about maintaining the Rubicon provenance. The OEM parts will hit the market once pulled, or the non-rubicon stuff will hit the market or be saved for the next Jeep project.

Curious to know which y'all would choose and why.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Personally I would run the stock locker until it gives you problems. Many (including mine) have survived countless trails of abuse.

 

[Rob5589]

Why would you lose a locked 44 for the open HP30?

 

[Chris]

Personally I would run the stock locker until it gives you problems. Many (including mine) have survived countless trails of abuse.

Exactly. I see no reason to swap it out unless it’s broken.

 

[Sea Cot]

Why would you lose a locked 44 for the open HP30?

The Dana 30 is in the parts pile, not being considered as a replacement for the Dana 44.

Exactly. I see no reason to swap it out unless it’s broken.

Two schools of thought- if it ain't broke, don't fix it vs. ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If/when the OEM unit fails, the repair bill (pound of cure) will be significant, whereas the working OEM locker has value that can offset some of the cost to acquire new parts. I've already replaced both air actuators- that were DOA when I bought the Jeep. I have a 3rd NIB actuator on the shelf. According to other WWTJF members, finding an actuator in-stock is has been difficult.

 

[AndyG]

I've never seen the word provenance used on a forum. I'd like you to get 10 points extra for that.

Regear and roll on, or you will get into headaches.

As a member of the Rubicon Preservation Society with Starr's and few select others , we can't really recommend molesting one too much. Sorry, we have standards .

The lockers themselves are actually Japanese made, good stuff...it's almost unheard of for one to grenade. We are making a display case for one now for the museum. Chris came up with the idea for a foot pump , so it's interactive , and kids can see how it works.

 

[Chris]

The Dana 30 is in the parts pile, not being considered as a replacement for the Dana 44.




Two schools of thought- if it ain't broke, don't fix it vs. ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If/when the OEM unit fails, the repair bill (pound of cure) will be significant, whereas the working OEM locker has value that can offset some of the cost to acquire new parts. I've already replaced both air actuators- that were DOA when I bought the Jeep. I have a 3rd NIB actuator on the shelf. According to other WWTJF members, finding an actuator in-stock is has been difficult.

The stock Rubicon lockers are actually pretty decent in terms of how tough they are. That’s what I’ve been told by many. Also, if you want an actuator, @David Kishpaugh has a treasure trove of them last I heard.

 

[Sea Cot]

I've never seen the word provenance used on a forum. I'd like you to get 10 points extra for that.

Regear and roll on, or you will get into headaches.

As a member of the Rubicon Preservation Society with Starr's and few select others , we can't really recommend molesting one too much. Sorry, we have standards .

Thank you for the bonus points, but allow me to nominate myself for permanent ostracisation from the RPS based on attributes of my LJR: rebuilt title, E-rated tires, 16" wheels, OPDA, NSG370, Metalcloak suspension, and SPOD.

 

[AndyG]

Thank you for the bonus points, but allow me to nominate myself for permanent ostracisation from the RPS based on attributes of my LJR: rebuilt title, E-rated tires, 16" wheels, OPDA, NSG370, Metalcloak suspension, and SPOD.

Blasphemy. Maybe we can all scrounge up some parts and sneak over there and get it back stock.

Good luck whatever you do man , seriously.

 

[Sea Cot]

The score so far is 3-0-0-0-0 for re-gear w/ OEM lockers.

 

[taylormade73]

Alternative option: my rear actuator failed, so I bought a RJ60 with Elocker. Problem solved. Nothing like unloading a full clip when 1 bullet will do.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Alternative option: my rear actuator failed, so I bought a RJ60 with Elocker. Problem solved. Nothing like unloading a full clip when 1 bullet will do.

Wow, that actuator only costs $75 to buy.

 

[taylormade73]

Wow, that actuator only costs $75 to buy.

If you can find one oh, which I could not. I tried for 6 months. But my comment was more tongue in cheek. I only bought the rj60 because it was a smoking deal.

 

[Sea Cot]

Alternative option: my rear actuator failed, so I bought a RJ60 with Elocker. Problem solved. Nothing like unloading a full clip when 1 bullet will do.

For me, that'd entail selling the Rubicon Dana 44's and Dana 30 & Dana 44 set to fund crate axles. Which depending on the timing of things could almost be a wash, but I don't have the appetite for that yet.

If you can find one oh, which I could not. I tried for 6 months. But my comment was more tongue in cheek. I only bought the rj60 because it was a smoking deal.

That's what rubs me about the OEM path. The easiest internal part to replace is (currently) difficult to source, even though my actuators are new and I have a NIB spare on the shelf. Replacing an OEM carrier with OEM carrier is a gamble due to limited availability and whatever is available is used.

At this point, I'm favoring option B- acquire 2nd gear set and ARB, then parting out the OEM lockers, pumps, wiring, and control switch.

 

[Sea Cot]

...At this point, I'm favoring option B- acquire 2nd gear set and ARB, then parting out the OEM lockers, pumps, wiring, and control switch.

Aaaaaand. . . option B it is. Just picked up a 2nd matching gear set, ARB, and two install kits. Parts should be here next week. I need to schedule an appointment for install which will be late this month-early next month.

That should give me time to de-Rubicon some parts by removing the wiring, pumps, and switch to get the parts ready for market.

The HP Dana 30 & non-Rubi Dana 44 might hit the market soon, too.

 

[sourbluff]

The HP Dana 30 & non-Rubi Dana 44 might hit the market soon, too.

Message me if you decide to sell these. I’m collecting parts to go bigger but this would be nice interim swap while I get both wife and wallet to agree to 37s.

 

[Sea Cot]

Message me if you decide to sell these. I’m collecting parts to go bigger but this would be nice interim swap while I get both wife and wallet to agree to 37s.

Will do. I'm able to pallet and ship these from a business with a loading dock, etc.

 

[Irun]

I'm in a similar situation, sort of. Currently, my '04 LJ has built Rubicon axles under it. I've had one major rear failure, which led to a 5.13 re-gear and stock locker replacement. I've also broken or damaged multiple yoke ears. My next step, at least it's what I'm thinking now, will be a replacement of both the Rubicon front and rear.

In your case, if you haven't broken anything, then why not just re-gear what you have? The stock lockers hold up just fine, provided you don't have a heavy foot (Locked or un-locked!). My previous TJ Rubicon had over 220K on it and still worked perfectly when I sold it to a buddy. As you said, I would certainly relocate the stock pumps and allow them to operate independently. Here's mine, which I moved up under the hood.

 

[Rob5589]

Message me if you decide to sell these. I’m collecting parts to go bigger but this would be nice interim swap while I get both wife and wallet to agree to 37s.

You're going to run 37's on a Dana 30?

 

[Sea Cot]

I'm in a similar situation, sort of. Currently, my '04 LJ has built Rubicon axles under it. I've had one major rear failure, which led to a 5.13 re-gear and stock locker replacement. I've also broken or damaged multiple yoke ears. My next step, at least it's what I'm thinking now, will be a replacement of both the Rubicon front and rear.

In your case, if you haven't broken anything, then why not just re-gear what you have? The stock lockers hold up just fine, provided you don't have a heavy foot (Locked or un-locked!). My previous TJ Rubicon had over 220K on it and still worked perfectly when I sold it to a buddy. As you said, I would certainly relocate the stock pumps and allow them to operate independently. Here's mine, which I moved up under the hood.

My pumps (one I replaced with a new unit) have been moved to the ABS tray and the switch has been re-wired to negate the Mopar safety nanny. Midwest wheelin' is keeping tire speed up to clear out the lugs, so from no traction to 100% traction at once. I'd prefer to eliminate the worry of a rear breakage which then forces me in to finding a replacement diff and paying for R&P labor again. If the rear goes, it's hello aftermarket selectable locker anyways. I really don't want to run two different selectable control systems, too. The lockers, wiring, switch, pump, and spare air actuator have value, so those items be sold off to reduce the sting of this adventure.