I really like audio control for my tuning and such, I recently sold my sundown subs (just too much for the TJ). Audison tweeters are my favorite
Audio wattage question: Matching speaker wattage with head unit
- Thread starter Leinhit
- Start date
I know that comment wasn't directed at me, but I put I was very impressed by the attention to detail that was put into the AudioFrog componets that I dealt with. Never seen anything quite like it. I wasn't extremely impressed with the sound though, considering the price I mean. For that price, I was expecting far more than what I heard.
89grand
TJ Addict
100% agreed. Luckily I picked mine off a forum for $200 shipped, they look awesome and the build looks great, but the most alarming thing to me is it said Made in China. After I bought mine I found a thread from the owner of Audiofrog who posted on the DIYMA forum about how much he loves, and how great his people in China are.
Audiotec Fischer all the way, there stuff is insanely good. The latest sub I added is unreal.
I thought so to, but now, not so much. The specs are really good but the sound, relative to other high end equipment, is not a good value whatsoever. Is it better than Polk and Kicker, yes, but not Hertz, Sinfoni or Audiotec Fischer...and one could argue that latest Audiomobile equip is a better value.
I expected a lot more from the higher end GB series that cost close to $400 for just the tweeters, only a pair of tweeters.
Did you pair it with some nice tuning software/unit? There could be some capability missed out on.
Some of the eBay sellers are also on the forums, so you can try to low-ball the eBay seller if it has a best offer. That's why I am sitting on an BNIB Audiotec Fischer PP86DSP....I am idiot and need to stop lowballing as I am getting hit on those prices.
Yeah, my M 5DSP takes care of the tuning. Have you seen their software. It is mind blowing. This is a picture from an old set-up. The software is free, and you download to your laptop and plug into their amplifer and you can set a ton of settings. I think they are moving to remote software/DSP tuning, but I am not there yet.
I am running a fully active set-up, technically 9 speakers, two tweeters, two 5.25" mids, two 6.5" woofers, 6.75" woofer and two 10" subs. I may dump the 6.75" in the center console though, but I am not there yet.
I do have that downloaded! I’ve been using a cheap full range mic for tuning in various positions and it integrates seamlessly
I do have that downloaded! I’ve been using a cheap full range mic for tuning in various positions and it integrates seamlessly
I saw a couple good mics in eBay, one from Audiofrog, but now I am rethinking that, and I saw an Audiotec Fischer one.
What amp are you running?
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/d-4800/
I love it!
“Connect your laptop to the D-4.800 using AudioControl’s DM Smart DSP app, a fully featured Matrix DSP Interface designed to give you instant and clear control over every aspect of your processor.
Route any input to any output, adjust gain, delay and polarity then precisely tune the D-4.800 using a 30 band EQ. High-pass, low-pass and band-pass can be set up for any output using 12 or 24 dB/octave Linkwitz-Riley crossovers.
For OEM integration, take advantage of the input and output RTAs, available for every input and output, to easily identify and sum factory speaker signals.
With a clear GUI and intuitive workflow, AudioControl’s DM Smart DSP app will take the guesswork out of tuning your system to your exact specifications.”
I could spend hours just tweaking stuff and playing around. I imagine that’s how engine tuners feel sometimes
Aloha Joe
TJ Enthusiast
There is a lot of confusing information out there, it's not your fault.
If the speakers say 100W RMS, that means they can handle 100W RMS without problem. Usually head units (stereos) are over generous with their ratings, so 45W probably won't deliver that most of the time. If you were to get a 100W per channel amp, you would be fine. If you got a 200W per channel amp, you would set up the speakers the same way as every other amp - start at low amp volume (there's a knob) and increase until you hear distortion, then back off slightly.
If the speaker is rated 100W RMS and you feed it with 45W RMS, basically the head unit can put out 45W RMS at max power, but won't have the power to fully flex the speaker at lower volumes. This is why more powerful systems have better sound at low volume. It takes energy to push the speaker cone and RETURN IT or move it the opposite way a precise amount. Having not enough power means the elasticity of the speaker can over-ride the power of the amp resulting in distortion.
I have Rockford Fosgate 5.25" speakers in my Jeep. They're rated 2-40W RMS, 80W peak. I'm running a 4x80W RMS amplifier. I have the amp turned up to about 60% to 70%. The speakers get loud enough to blow anyone out of the car without distorting and I can run them like that all day long. I'm not saying I play it that loud, but I know I can get as much volume as I need on the highway with no doors or top, without distorting or worrying I'll blow the speakers. But the power means they also have the same full sound at lower volume for when I'm riding around town.
You can get a cheap little powersports (waterproof) amp like that for $80 and it fits under your steering column and is simple to install. The sound will be lightyears better than trying to power with a head unit.
89grand
TJ Addict
I'm not saying that AF is worth the money, as I've never owned any of their stuff, I'm just saying that guy (Andy) knows a lot of shit. He did a lot for JBL.
He knows a lot of audio stuff for sure, and I think that is a double edged sword for the consumer. He can market the crap out of his stuff, and overcharge, but we as the consumer have to believe him
Similar comparison would be specialized brake pads for us. Blaine knows a lot of shit, sells expensive brake pads, and those pads are worth the relative value. I trust Blaine's sales practices but not so much with AF after my latest purchase. They are just overpriced, instead of the $400 price tag they should be in the $150 range. Lesson learned, I'm sticking with Audiotec Fischer going forward
They are recommending their ck12 wiring kit... Power directly to the battery and bypassing the vehicle power supply in the vehicle's factory stereo harness altogether.
It's 12 gauge which fell into your "ok" level.. your kit was only $12 more but I didn't understaffed the "2 channel patch cables and if I even need that with the built in amp the DSX GS-80 has? Unless I want to go with A mild external amp in the future? Or is it for a future sub?
Order is in! Thanks to all for your help and patience, as well as easy to understand answers.
I went with crutchfield, the dsx gs-80, the direct to battery wire harness, and I spoiled ( lol autocorrect originally put "soiled") myself by using their "ready harness service" that wires it all up for me.. I used their advisor and that was pleasantly easy and informative..
Now to cruise the hood blaring polka music and all bass at 3 am...
I went with crutchfield, the dsx gs-80, the direct to battery wire harness, and I spoiled ( lol autocorrect originally put "soiled") myself by using their "ready harness service" that wires it all up for me.. I used their advisor and that was pleasantly easy and informative..
Now to cruise the hood blaring polka music and all bass at 3 am...
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