Semi Tummy Tuck Ideas

AMS417

"The Ayatollah of rock and rolla"
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Springfield MO
Folks,

The dealer I purchased my Jeep from just mailed me a packet with all the literature and receipts for all the aftermarkets parts. Seems this 2005 Rubicon was fitted out in Nov 2005 at Showtime Sportrucks in Claycomo MO with a 4" lift kit from Superlift. It appears that recently the control arms where replaced with Rough Country adjustable arms with part number 94001132 with a manufacturer date of 09/20/18 found on one of the stickers, looks like they also installed new Ranchos around the same time. In the Superlift instructions and on the Jeep I see a transfer case drop bracket. This thing drags its belly on every hump on the trail, it hangs LOW.

I need options, maybe not a full tummy tuck or a completely flat skid, but how can I get some more clearance? Is there a way I can remove the drop bracket and move the skid back up without changing everything? Should i bite the bullet and go whole hog on a tuck? Running 33's limits me on diff clearance but this t case is an anchor. Give me some direction. What are my choices?
 
How much money do you want to spend? If you want the best-of-the-best, order the Savvy modular under armor. That’s the flattest tuck there is.

Do it once, do it right.
 
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How much money do you want to spend? If you want the best-of-the-best, order the Savvy modular under armor. That’s the flattest tuck there is.

Do it once, do it right.

Yeah, kind of figured that. Hoped for a stop gap solution for "some" clearance now, like removing the drop brackets at least and a full tuck later. Just dropped 1k on tires and stereo, and 1k on axles upgrades and maintenance items. Need to spread this out some.
 
You could go with a UCF high clearance which is a 2” drop. Probably save you at least 2 inches on what you have.
 
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Yeah, kind of figured that. Hoped for a stop gap solution for "some" clearance now, like removing the drop brackets at least and a full tuck later. Just dropped 1k on tires and stereo, and 1k on axles upgrades and maintenance items. Need to spread this out some.

Rokmen is a nice one as well. However, once it’s all said and done, it’s going to end up costing roughly the same. That’s why I say do it once and do it right.
 
So in an effort not to waste money on parts that wont align with my ultimate goal. What If I did the custom double cardan rear shaft, and took out the spacer for now? That would gain me about 1". I could also re-contour (beat the shit out of) the stock skid lip so that it slides over, instead of catches on everything. I already have adjustable arms to correct pinion angle. Later I could add the BL and MML as well as the new skid. Reasonable? The only reason for the spacer is drive shaft angle, right? Does it even need the spacer on a Rubicon?
 
We're all the control arms replaced or just the lowers?

If they were replaced, buy a CV driveshaft and be done @$400.

If you dont have adjustable upper rear arms, add those to the parts list
 
We're all the control arms replaced or just the lowers?

If they were replaced, buy a CV driveshaft and be done @$400.

If you dont have adjustable upper rear arms, add those to the parts list

All arms are adjustable now. That's what I was thinking, spend the $ on the shaft with plans to upgrade further down the road.
 
I hate you guys....🤣

Just ordered an Adams drive shaft, MORE MML, JKS 1.25 BL and am shopping for tc shift cable and skid. Whos got that UCF discount code? I still dont have my front axle put back together, geez.
 
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Price is roughly same and I think most will say go with Savvy BL as aluminum pucks won’t sag as age. Having recently installed it can say is quality product.

The Savvy t-case cable gets rave reviews not only in this forum but pretty much everywhere I’ve checked.

My first thought for armor was steel too. Didn‘t think would be big deal until I created list and added up total weight of bumpers, fenders, rocksliders, corners, flares, skids, etc. The difference is significant. Know you aren’t doing all these now but you’ve already seen how one thing leads to another and the ’build bug’ can take hold.
 
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UCF has more options for less $$$. I dont want to do a lowpro mount, and I want the integrated pump mount for locker pumps. Probably will go steel.
It doesn’t really turn out cheaper. Maybe $25.

Savvy has the best TCase shifter.
 
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Immediate goal is to get ride of the tcase drop thats on there now, its sucks. Drive shaft will help there, MML will help more, BL to correct everything the MML lift messes up. You know the drill. I will probably end up doing a cable shift next, along with a skid. Still trying to decide what I want. Weight savings isnt at the top of the list but should be considered. I already have super heavy bumpers and sliders. Lots of Savvy fans, several UCF fans too. Both seem to make good stuff.
 
One thing not mentioned. The Savvy skid has a stand alone cross member with trans mount. Being able to drop the skid by it self, to me just flat out makes it worth any and all extra work or funds.
And can’t compare Savvy TC shifter to anything but stock but it’s very nice!

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