2” Lift and Tummy Tuck

[dirtygerdy]

After a month of lurking this forum I’ve pulled the trigger and became a member. Looking forward to it! First post here.

I have a 2005 TJ 4.0 Automatic with Dana 30/35. It has a soft top, roof rack, front bumper and winch, and new wheels with 32” tires. My father recently passed and willed this to me. He just got it in March and was in the process of building it.

This will not be a daily driver. I live in SoCal and would like to explore Big Bear and the desert, take the family camping, and haul a dirt bike with a versahauler on occasion. I also want to be capable of mild rock crawling. Sort of a jack of all trades Jeep! I have plans of a super 30/35 with e locker and several other thingsbut this post is a lift/tummy tuck post.

I would like to run 32-33” tires and do a Tummy Tuck with this lift:
-2” Pro Comp springs
-2” Rancho RS5000x Shocks
-Saavy 1.25” BL
-Saavy or Brown Dog 1” MML
-Saavy T-Case Shifter Kit
I understand that I can likely lift the Jeep without needing the SYE, DC Driveshaft, Adj. Control Arms, etc…but I’m kind of confused how to go about the tummy tuck without all of those aforementioned parts. Here are my questions:

-Do I need, or is it recommended, to get an adjustable front track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket for this lift?

-Do I need, or is it recommended, to get an SYE and Double Cardan Drive Shaft for this lift and tummy tuck?

-Do I need, or is it recommended, to get Adjustable Control Arms for this lift and tummy tuck?

-If these parts are needed for a full tuck then is it possible to add a lower skid plate (and still provide more tuck than stock) without having to spend on the SYE, DC Driveshaft, and Control Arms with this lift? I know UCF offers a few different heights. I’d rather compromise an inch on the tummy tuck than spend a couple grand on those parts just to get the full tuck.

-Lastly, am I wrong in thinking that if I spent all that money on the SYE, DC, Adj. Control Arms, and full tummy tuck…that I might as well look at a 3”+ lift to better clear 33” tires?

I want to do it right but I also don’t want to spend the money on unnecessary parts if I’m not planning on a bigger lift and 35’s. Can somebody properly run a 2+1.25” lift on 32” rubber and tummy tuck without the SYE, DC Driveshaft, Control arms, etc.?

thanks!

 

[Chris]

Welcome to the forum, glad you decided to become a member.

To answer your questions:

1. You don't need adjustable track bars, but they won't hurt. Your axles will be off center about 1/2" laterally. This won't damage anything, at most it will just look unsightly (if you even notice it). You will need a track bar relocation bracket for the rear though.
2. Yes, you absolutely need a SYE and DC driveshaft for a tummy tuck. No way around that.
3. Yes, you need adjustable control arms. It's impossible to do a tummy tuck without a complete set of them. By doing a tummy tuck you are doing the equivalent of lifting your TJ another 3" or so, including the 2" of suspension lift you're adding. So basically your TJ will only be lifted 2", but with the tummy tuck the driveline will be the equivalent of a 4-5" lift.
4. Regardless of the tummy tuck you choose, you'll need what I mentioned above if you plan on tucking it. You'll also need a 1.25" body lift, unless you plan on going with the UCF LoPro transmission mount, which even then will only do so much.
5. Yes and no. You can do a tummy tuck with 2" of lift, but you really need to add an extra 1.25" body lift to tuck things up enough to have it be worth the effort. At that point you're at 3.25" of lift, which is going to look silly with 31s but more appropriate with 32s. However, if you're going through that effort, why not just do a 3" lift and a 1" body lift (4" total) and fit 33s?

 

[dirtygerdy]

Thanks for the reply!
I was planning on the BL with the 2” suspension lift. You’ve answered my question though.

It sounds like I can do the 2+1.25” and get enough suspension to properly run 32” tires. I could do the bolt on skid platethat gives slightly more room than stock but it won’t be a tummy tuck.

Or I spend the money to do it properly and then do a 3+1.25” lift.

Correct?

 

[bobthetj03]

Do the 2" lift, BL and MML, then evaluate vibes. Stick with 32's. Barnes 4x4 makes a nice TT that only raises the t-case 1". It's a stout piece. If you get vibes after that, then you know you need to go the SYE route.

 

[dirtygerdy]

This guy got me thinking about the 2+1” lift. He’s running that with a tummy tuck and truetrac front and rear. I notice he listed all the proper parts for the TT in his description though. His rig seems very capable on the smaller lift and I liked that for some reason. The smaller lift, lower cog, high line stuff is fascinating to me But ultimately suspension still seems to reign supreme.

But really I was trying to find a cheaper way to achieve this and that’s not possible. At that point, doing it right, there isn’t a lot of difference in cost running a 2” or 3” lift with a proper TT.

 

[dirtygerdy]

Do the 2" lift, BL and MML, then evaluate vibes. Stick with 32's. Barnes 4x4 makes a nice TT that only raises the t-case 1". It's a stout piece. If you get vibes after that, then you know you need to go the SYE route.

Are you talking about the Barnes bolt on? I’ve seen some on here that mate that with the savvy engine skid. That seems like a good cheaper option for sure!

 

[bobthetj03]

Are you talking about the Barnes bolt on? I’ve seen some on here that mate that with the savvy engine skid. That seems like a good cheaper option for sure!

Yeah, this one,
https://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ-Bolt-On-Skid-Plate_p_867.html
It's plug-n-play, 1/4" thick steel, and doesn't have the shovel like effects that a factory skid has.

 

[dirtygerdy]

Yeah, this one,
https://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ-Bolt-On-Skid-Plate_p_867.html
It's plug-n-play, 1/4" thick steel, and doesn't have the shovel like effects that a factory skid has.

If I choose to abandon the TT then this is the route I will likely go. Thank you!

 

[dirtygerdy]

@Chris I had a question related to this that you may be able to help with.

I’m looking at Currie 3” springs With Saavy 1.25” BL because I’ve decided a TT is for me. That said, I also want to use a hitch mounted versahauler to haul a dirt bike. My hitch is frame mounted. I estimate this to add 300+lbs on the hitch with the bike on it. I know the OME 2.5 makes HD springs.

The questions:

Would the HD springs be better for my application than the 3” Currie springs?

Will I need to relocate the spring buckets due to spring length or as a result of moving the axle for the TT?

Thank you.

 

[Chris]

@Chris I had a question related to this that you may be able to help with.

I’m looking at Currie 3” springs With Saavy 1.25” BL because I’ve decided a TT is for me. That said, I also want to use a hitch mounted versahauler to haul a dirt bike. My hitch is frame mounted. I estimate this to add 300+lbs on the hitch with the bike on it. I know the OME 2.5 makes HD springs.

The questions:

Would the HD springs be better for my application than the 3” Currie springs?

Will I need to relocate the spring buckets due to spring length or as a result of moving the axle for the TT?

Thank you.

Yes, the OME springs will be better IMHO due to the large number of different spring rates they make. The 3” Savvy springs seem to be a bit soft from what I’ve seen.

 

[dirtygerdy]

Yes, the OME springs will be better IMHO due to the large number of different spring rates they make. The 3” Savvy springs seem to be a bit soft from what I’ve seen.

Awesome! Thank you.

 

[KimsJeep]

.At that point you're at 3.25" of lift, which is going to look silly with 31s.

HEY, I resemble that remark! LOL

3.25 lift on 31's. It doesn't look 'that' silly! LOL

 

[Chris]

HEY, I resemble that remark! LOL

3.25 lift on 31's. It doesn't look 'that' silly! LOL
View attachment 185643

You could go up a size

 

[KimsJeep]

You could go up a size

Yah, I probably will when I need new tires next. Just bought these this year though, so will be a while.