Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

[mrblaine]

Yes I have.

Our typical uptravel puts the JJ body up to the bottom of the cargo floor. Not the crossmembers that go across the floor, the floor sheet metal itself. That is with the body of the JJ as close to the diff as a single layer of truss platform will allow.

Tank is going where?

 

[Wildman]

Our typical uptravel puts the JJ body up to the bottom of the cargo floor. Not the crossmembers that go across the floor, the floor sheet metal itself. That is with the body of the JJ as close to the diff as a single layer of truss platform will allow.

Tank is going where?

I'm going to put a fuel cell in behind the front seats like tox.

 

[mrblaine]

I'm going to put a fuel cell in behind the front seats like tox.

Cut the frame, slide it back, bob off what sticks out. Rework the body mount platforms, good to go.

 

[Wildman]

Cut the frame, slide it back, bob off what sticks out. Rework the body mount platforms, good to go.

What size tube do I want/need to get? And you do 4" is that right?

 

[mrblaine]

What size tube do I want/need to get?

2.5" x 4" x .188 wall. Line the inside with 1/8" that sticks out past each end 3". 2" on the top and bottom, cut to width 4" for the two sides. Plug weld on both sides of the joints with 4-5 plug welds x 1/2" in diameter, fish plate the inside with 3/16" that laps the whole mess. How much straight tube do you have in front of your mid arm rear mount?

BTW- I have the tube you need for the frame. You are welcome to a pair of lengths of it when you know what they are exactly. I'll get a couple of pics of how we do it that is very easy to duplicate.

 

[Wildman]

2.5" x 4" x .188 wall. Line the inside with 1/8" that sticks out past each end 3". 2" on the top and bottom, cut to width 4" for the two sides. Plug weld on both sides of the joints with 4-5 plug welds x 1/2" in diameter, fish plate the inside with 3/16" that laps the whole mess. How much straight tube do you have in front of your mid arm rear mount?

BTW- I have the tube you need for the frame. You are welcome to a pair of lengths of it when you know what they are exactly. I'll get a couple of pics of how we do it that is very easy to duplicate.

Okay that would be great. I can PayPal you for the tube and shipping.
I've moved the axle back 5" so what measurements do I need to give you ?

 

[mrblaine]

Okay that would be great. I can PayPal you for the tube and shipping.
I've moved the axle back 5" so what measurements do I need to give you ?

My preference would be the exact distance between the two ends of the cut frame. At least that is how I do it. If you think 5" is that number, no problem.

 

[toximus]

BTW- I have the tube you need for the frame. You are welcome to a pair of lengths of it when you know what they are exactly. I'll get a couple of pics of how we do it that is very easy to duplicate.

I still have some 6ft and aprox 2ft lengths if you run out.

 

[mrblaine]

I still have some 6ft and aprox 2ft lengths if you run out.

May have to take you up on that but if you want to send him a 2 footer, that solves all of our problems.

 

[Wildman]

My preference would be the exact distance between the two ends of the cut frame. At least that is how I do it. If you think 5" is that number, no problem.

How much can you cut off the rear? I haven't looked that close but I didn't think there was that much back there that I could cut off?

I've move the axle back exactly 5".

 

[mrblaine]

How much can you cut off the rear? I haven't looked that close but I didn't think there was that much back there that I could cut off?

That is where it gets tricky. You have to decide if you want to fuck with the torque box or fuck with the frame but the answer to your question is you cut off exactly what you move it back. If you move it back 5", you're gonna bob off 5".

You can also cut the middle out of that crossmember and add some bracing back in. None of it is fun and you just have to commit.

 

[toximus]

May have to take you up on that but if you want to send him a 2 footer, that solves all of our problems.

If he only needs 2x 5" I have scrap I can cut that from. @Wildman let us know if you want a longer length or if you're fine with it cut to the length you need (I'll add an extra .5" or so to each)

 

[toximus]

Moving or cutting, you're also going to need to make body mount for under the cargo area.

 

[Wildman]

That is where it gets tricky. You have to decide if you want to fuck with the torque box or fuck with the frame but the answer to your question is you cut off exactly what you move it back. If you move it back 5", you're gonna bob off 5".

You can also cut the middle out of that crossmember and add some bracing back in. None of it is fun and you just have to commit.

Okay I guess I'd better go back out and look at the rear of the Jeep.

I read your description of what you do to the torque box but will have to go back and read it again so I make sure I understand what it is that you are doing.

 

[mrblaine]

Torque box fuckery
Inside-

Outside-

That is a TJ at 104 done a very long time ago for one of your brethren in the PNW. Sticker on the cowl tells you who the owner was.

 

[Wildman]

Moving or cutting, you're also going to need to make body mount for under the cargo area.

Yes that part I had figured out. It is the torque box that I am going to have to study up on. And hope I don't fuck it up.

If he only needs 2x 5" I have scrap I can cut that from. @Wildman let us know if you want a longer length or if you're fine with it cut to the length you need (I'll add an extra .5" or so to each)

No cut to length would be fine and easier to ship I would assume? I appreciate this.

 

[toximus]

Just so you know, I'll charge you what I paid for the tubing. It's hard to find and I bought 1 48ft stick a few years ago directly from the mill. So I doubt you'll find it cheaper.

OK I had to move the transfer case out of the way so I don't have a full droop angle yet. I seem to remember a discussion where @mrblaine was talking about max angle for different size u-joints. I'm running 1350 DC on a flange if that makes a difference.

Front ride height is - 16"
Max up travel @ full bump - 11"
Max down travel @ full droop - 21"

Shock length
Ride height - 22-24" this is different as I have new towers that will allow 2" additional length.

Max up - 17-19"
Max down - 27-29"

Rear
Ride height - 13"
Max up - 7.5"
Max down - 21"

Shock (I have new shock towers for the rear)

Ride height - 21"
Max up - 16"
Max down - 29 1/2"

So it's not going to be balanced if I keep my current ride height.

10" of travel in the front and 13" in the rear.
Now I know I have not tried to fit a shock in the rear so before anyone says anything that was just what COULD be not what is.

And on the front I'm being conservative as ORO said I could take it to 10" between the upper and lower mounts.

So as long as my rear driveline would allow 12" of travel that is what I'm shooting for.

I'm having trouble understanding this. How much up travel is this at your trail setting?

 

[toximus]

No cut to length would be fine and easier to ship I would assume? I appreciate this.

No rush. Just shoot me a PM whenever you're ready. Measure 50 times, cut twice.

 

[Wildman]

Just so you know, I'll charge you what I paid for the tubing. It's hard to find and I bought 1 48ft stick a few years ago. So I doubt you'll find it cheaper.



I'm having trouble understanding this. How much up travel is this at your trail setting?

Tox,
That is fine on the tubing.

5" front & 5.5" rear

 

[toximus]

I hit my rear "bumper" last trip out backing into a rock. It just deflected and I went over the rock as planned. After that it made me wonder what would happen to the tub if I didn't have the bumper the full width. Yes more clearance, but weaker when it does hit. A cut like Blaine did on that blue is an option. I don't know the answer for mine yet.