TJ cranks but will not start

Love those wheels, jealous. 5 of the same sensor seems excessive. I wouldn’t just throw money at the problem. It might not be the oil sensor but it seems like a good place to start.

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On a slightly unrelated note, I noticed you had a snorkel. What do you think of it? I currently have a K&N intake and hate it. (If I don’t have a supercharger I don’t want Intake noises) I’ve been looking for a stock one. But there up to almost $100 dollars in my area, and I can get a snorkel for 70. So you can see the debocal. It’s not like I would do a lot of water crossings, but I kinda like the look.
 
On a slightly unrelated note, I noticed you had a snorkel. What do you think of it? I currently have a K&N intake and hate it. (If I don’t have a supercharger I don’t want Intake noises) I’ve been looking for a stock one. But there up to almost $100 dollars in my area, and I can get a snorkel for 70. So you can see the debocal. It’s not like I would do a lot of water crossings, but I kinda like the look.
I love it so quiet and seems to not have any noise. I also did a new exhaust cause my other one sounded like a monster truck. But love snorkel and I say why not have the extra water clearance
 
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Alright so I have a update obd2 reader won’t work with the snap on reader. No power to the coil pack plug and fuel pump will not turn on. I am feeling we have a PCM issue I am only getting 4v testing.

my question is do I reprogram pcm will pcm issue cause obd2 failure should I look for something different
 
Sounds like your OBD2 is already giving you nothing useful, have you tried disconnecting both battery terminals and spitting the leads together for a 10-15 min. After that check your PCM connections, and clean as necessary, check and clean your grounds, (on fire wall near cylinder 6 passenger side and near dipstick on engine.) and clean your battery terminals then hook the battery back up and see what you get. The time off the battery should completely drain the PCM to factory reset and MIGHT help fix your problem.
 
Sounds like your OBD2 is already giving you nothing useful, have you tried disconnecting both battery terminals and spitting the leads together for a 10-15 min. After that check your PCM connections, and clean as necessary, check and clean your grounds, (on fire wall near cylinder 6 passenger side and near dipstick on engine.) and clean your battery terminals then hook the battery back up and see what you get. The time off the battery should completely drain the PCM to factory reset and MIGHT help fix your problem.
Currently disconnected we have cleaned and tested everything currently no power to the coil pack rail plug. I am wondering when my oil sensor broke if it shorted something into the pcm. We at least know where the issue is and it was not my scanner or the new sensor
 
You have reached the limits of my knowledge, at this point I’d say your in for a new PCM, or a rebuild of that one. Could be a wiring short somewhere, but good luck finding that if your not sure of your PCM. Someone might chime in with knowledge on how to test the PCM, but that’s all I have. Good luck!
 
Alright so I have a update obd2 reader won’t work with the snap on reader. No power to the coil pack plug and fuel pump will not turn on. I am feeling we have a PCM issue I am only getting 4v testing.
Check fuse 26 in the PDC. Your coil rail power comes from your ASD relay in the PDC. I would swap that with a known good relay, like the horn if your horn works. Also, the ASD is only active for a few seconds unless the engine is cranking over. Since your dIagnostic port isn’t allowing you to pull codes, you need to check the pin out on it. What pin on what connector is only getting 4v?

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You have reached the limits of my knowledge, at this point I’d say your in for a new PCM, or a rebuild of that one. Could be a wiring short somewhere, but good luck finding that if your not sure of your PCM. Someone might chime in with knowledge on how to test the PCM, but that’s all I have. Good luck!
Thanks for everything I have battery disconnected gonna leave it off a bit and gonna recheck all but everything we tested received power but the coil rail. Gonna chase wires a bit too but really over it for today. Pcm dunno if you repair replace rebuild or what’s best options. Either way at least we’re close.
 
Thanks for everything I have battery disconnected gonna leave it off a bit and gonna recheck all but everything we tested received power but the coil rail. Gonna chase wires a bit too but really over it for today. Pcm dunno if you repair replace rebuild or what’s best options. Either way at least we’re close.
Post some pictures of the wiring back by the valve cover, not a closeup, just a general overview. Same with the battery cables and your PDC without the cover on and the passenger side of the engine wiring. After you reconnect the battery check fuse 26 in the PDC.
 
Check fuse 26 in the PDC. Your coil rail power comes from your ASD relay in the PDC. I would swap that with a known good relay, like the horn if your horn works. Also, the ASD is only active for a few seconds unless the engine is cranking over. Since your dIagnostic port isn’t allowing you to pull codes, you need to check the pin out on it. What pin on what connector is only getting 4v?

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I will check this out we did the orange wire grey purple wire using this below I might be off here but it was 4V

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Post some pictures of the wiring back by the valve cover, not a closeup, just a general overview. Same with the battery cables and your PDC without the cover on and the passenger side of the engine wiring. After you reconnect the battery check fuse 26 in the PDC.
I just showered gotta do some running battery is unhooked. I will do as you offered get pictures and will upload them late tonight early tomorrow thanks for this will update.