Anyone have any experience with auto paint?

dylansalrin

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Some of you know I've been trying to get the past paint job off my wrangler that the previous owner plastered over the clear coat. I can scrape it off with my fingernail and a small spot rubbed off by repeated use on the door, the clear coat under it was not sanded or roughened before paint so I am trying to get this crappy paint job off and restore the factory color.

Ive called multiple autobody shops and auto paint suppliers but they all tell me some form of the same thing, "we cant give advice unless you pay us to do the job"... I do not want to sand it because I want the original color. I know a buffing wheel is sketchy and the pressure washer didnt take any off. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice on how to remove the black but not damage the clear coat? Is there a chemical I am missing?
 
Some of you know I've been trying to get the past paint job off my wrangler that the previous owner plastered over the clear coat. I can scrape it off with my fingernail and a small spot rubbed off by repeated use on the door, the clear coat under it was not sanded or roughened before paint so I am trying to get this crappy paint job off and restore the factory color.

Ive called multiple autobody shops and auto paint suppliers but they all tell me some form of the same thing, "we cant give advice unless you pay us to do the job"... I do not want to sand it because I want the original color. I know a buffing wheel is sketchy and the pressure washer didnt take any off. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice on how to remove the black but not damage the clear coat? Is there a chemical I am missing?

Are you sure it's paint and not plasti dip?
 
Are you sure it's paint and not plasti dip?
I mean 90%. I've plasti dipped things before and I know how it can peel. this is ON the clear coat. for example, the front fender is severely damaged from some contact and the paint is not peeling at all in that location. it also doesnt have the same matte as plasti dip. it rubs off and fades instead of all at once too from repeated use on the door.
 
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I mean 90%. I've plasti dipped things before and I know how it can peel. this is ON the clear coat. for example, the front fender is severely damaged from some contact and the paint is not peeling at all in that location. it also doesnt have the same matte as plasti dip. it rubs off and fades instead of all at once too from repeated use on the door.

OK, its not uncommon for knuckleheads to rattle can the entire jeep with plasti dip which is why I was asking. If it is paint this is going to be an uphill battle for you to remove all of that without damaging the clear coat.

I would take it to a place like Maaco and get a quote on how much it would cost to "fix it". It might not be as bad as you think and even if you don't agree to have the work done you might be able to glean some insight as to how they would approach it.
 
ha yea i imagined, by taking it to Maaco you mean having them reshoot it? because i heard thats all they like to do LOL, i was under the impression they do not prep or sand.
 
ha yea i imagined, by taking it to Maaco you mean having them reshoot it? because i heard thats all they like to do LOL, i was under the impression they do not prep or sand.

Haha, I wouldn't jump to conclusions I think like most things you get what you pay for, I am sure they offer different options.

Any chemicals that can remove paint are definitely also going to affect the clear coat most likely.
 
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ha yea i imagined, by taking it to Maaco you mean having them reshoot it? because i heard thats all they like to do LOL, i was under the impression they do not prep or sand.

Maaco has different packages. If you pay more money, you get a better paint job. If you pay for their cheap package, you get a cheap paint job with little to no prep.

I wouldn't consider Maaco for a higher end paint job though. I'd take my money elsewhere.
 
yea i was trying to avoid a repaint if possible but I have a compressor and a gun so Ill probably prep and shoot it myself in the shop. save $$. Just dont have the time to paint it for months ha. I guess the black is staying for a while!
 
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Try a test. Get a quart of automotive grade lacquer thinner(not the stuff you buy at the hardware store), put on a pair of nitrile gloves, get a clean rag and dampen the rag with some thinner. Rub a small, inconspicuous spot and see if it pulls up the black color. If the clearcoat underneath that black is factory clear, thinner won't harm it. Be careful to keep the thinner off of plastic or fabric, just the steel substrate. This test will tell us if the black paint is indeed rattle can paint. Rattle can paint is thermoplastic and can be re-liquefied with solvent, where as factory clear coat is thermoset and cannot be re-liquefied with solvent (think mud vs. concrete).
 
The previous owner either rattle canned the whole thing with whatever duplicolor or rustoleum auto paint was in the local store, or had a cheap single stage auto paint sprayed on (aka Maaco job). If they didn't do any sanding or prep work then it might start coming off in spots like you've seen. If they did scuff or prep the original paint then it's probably on there for good. You might want to test in some hidden spots with some various thinners, MEK, toulene, xylene, acetone, or even regular brake cleaner to see if any of them will soften the sprayed stuff enough to rub it off, but chances are it'll be a ridiculous amount of work to get it off and then a ton more work to restore and clean up the original paint underneath.
 
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On a somewhat related note what is best for taking a factory paint job right down to bare metal? I don't have access to any fancy sanders so that's out of the question.


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yea i understand that. since I have to replace the fender and tailgate anyway I guess ill just reshoot it in a couple months. Thanks for all the input everyone! very much appreciated.
 
On a somewhat related note what is best for taking a factory paint job right down to bare metal? I don't have access to any fancy sanders so that's out of the question.


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If the factory paint is in good shape you are much better off not striping it. The new paint will adhere better to property peeped factory paint.
 
You already have a crappy paint job so why not just test it and see what you can do. The only feasible way to go back to the OEM paint if this is indeed paint is the finely sand the new paint off and not burn through the OEM clear coat. This would not be easy and would have to be done entirely by hand with 1000 grit+ sand paper and water. I've done it on fenders after a car has run over wet paint but never to the degree of what you have on your hands. I agree with the maaco commenters. If you prep yourself, pull all the rubber moldings, and choose your favorite color you've always wanted then maaco would be great. After all... it's a Jeep. Not a Vette.
 
Scuff it down, prime it, paint...you could do it piece by piece as weekend projects...or save for a paint job or trade for one if you have something to offer...just ideas...
 
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Scuff it down, prime it, paint...you could do it piece by piece as weekend projects...or save for a paint job or trade for one if you have something to offer...just ideas...

I wish I had a weekend... super busy this quarter in school plus work and the lady friend takes up all my time. I'll deal with the paint till I get a full week to prep it and shoot where I'm not rushed. Thanks for advice!!