Painting door panels with SEM paint

Started on some door panel crack repair since I was off work due to Hurricane Dorian. I drilled a small hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading. I was going to use some thin aluminum to make a backing plate, but remembered I had some of this gutter guard so I used it with some JB Weld plastic bonder. I roughed the area up first with some sandpaper first. Going to do it in steps, so we'll see how it works.

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I was planning on using epoxy with some dry wall mesh tape behind my door panel cracks. Is the aluminum needed for support/rigidity?

I think I’m going to try the drywall mesh tape on the remaining part of the crack due to the curvature of where it’s at. I figure it will be easier to shape and work with.
 
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Setting the hinges before getting my buddy to paint the doors. The last two screws wouldn’t budge. Heat, Kroil and eventually an easy out for them out. Now I’m on hold until the new screws come in.

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According to a PDF file I came across on the SEM site, it says Khaki Color Coat 15833 is for my Khaki interior.

The way I got to this is my build sheet says J3 is my interior code.

If you go to their site click resources, scroll down to Formulas and click the learn more button, then scroll down to Trim Code Formulas and type your year in. It will bring up the PDF file. It says J3 is Khaki and the formula is 5545.

Then if you go to their color cards (right above where you put the year in for formulas) and select color coat color cards, it will show a couple PDF's to open. For mine it was on the second PDF. That file showed formula 5545 is 15833. On the card it looks darker, but I know it can be misleading. I'm going to get a can and see how well it matches.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3HXUIS/?tag=wranglerorg-20

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Thanks for this Tom. I just received my Camel paint but after looking through your post, it looks like my color code for Camel is a different formula from what I purchased. I’ll be calling SEM shortly to see if they can make hell me find my formula as it looks like it may have been discontinued from mass production.

This chain of posts is great!

I just harvested doors I need but the interior is saddle. (Close in color but since I’m replacing some hardware, I’m gonna get the inner panels color matched.
 
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I’ve got my paint and adhesion promoter, just haven’t found the time to paint them yet. At least not the amount of time I’d like to have without feeling rushed.
 
I have the 2000 Camel color interior- color code K5. I just learned the hard way (should have looked for and read Toms post before ordering SEM Camel 15173 from Amazon) that not all Camel colors are the same. I got a hold of a very helpful dude named Isreal at SEM. My formula for Medium Camel SEM formula 5020 is not in mass production and SEM didn't have any in house to sell me. He directed me to a local distributor who will be able to mix my color and give it to me an aerosol format. Definitely use Tom's guide to finding your exact color before you buy online. I was lucky to only be out $20 before starting this project with the wrong paint.
 
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Please let us know the result. I did the same thing and identified 5020 as the color i need. I did a retailer search on the SEM website and only 2 in the S. Louisiana area will mix and put in a can. One wanted $40 /can and the other $60. If you find someone that can mix and ship for half of that, i would be happy.
 
Please let us know the result. I did the same thing and identified 5020 as the color i need. I did a retailer search on the SEM website and only 2 in the S. Louisiana area will mix and put in a can. One wanted $40 /can and the other $60. If you find someone that can mix and ship for half of that, i would be happy.

How many cans would you need? I was thinking of getting 2. (2-Full Door panels and then might touch up the dash and center console as a later project.

Maybe there is some better pricing with 3 or 4 and I'll just ship to you. The dealer they directed me to is only 10-minutes away so I'm going to try and head over there tomorrow to check it out.

I'll do the recon and let you know.

DT
 
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Best advice I can give is don't rush any of this. Prep well, clean the crap out of everything, degrease it all well, take your time painting. If not all the trouble of removing everything in the first place will be for naught.
 
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Please let us know the result. I did the same thing and identified 5020 as the color i need. I did a retailer search on the SEM website and only 2 in the S. Louisiana area will mix and put in a can. One wanted $40 /can and the other $60. If you find someone that can mix and ship for half of that, i would be happy.

My local SEM Authorized shop just mixed a can for me for $32. A Would have been double if they had to color match. I got the lower rate because I brought them the SEM paint formula code that I found at Tom's direction and using the SEM website.

Dan
 
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For exterior trim pieces, is all I need the SEM adhesion promoter and the trim black?
 
I've not painted any exterior pieces, but I would think that's all you would need.
 
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I've not painted any exterior pieces, but I would think that's all you would need.
Thanks! I should have asked this too, do I need to rough up the trim pieces, or will the adhesion promoter alone be sufficient?
 
For exterior trim pieces, is all I need the SEM adhesion promoter and the trim black?
When I did my flares, I scuffed em with a green scotch bright to smooth em out and give the paint some "tooth" then I cleaned them real well with dishsoap (an excellent degreaser) and let them dry in the sunlight. Then right before the adhesion promoter (rustoleum) I wiped them down with Rubbing Alcohol and a microfiber. Follow the directions on the can of adhesion promoter and apply your topcoat in the correct time window. I used Rustoleum bed liner on my flares, and it has held up VERY well. I painted them three years ago, its still holding on and not chipped.
 
When I did my flares, I scuffed em with a green scotch bright to smooth em out and give the paint some "tooth" then I cleaned them real well with dishsoap (an excellent degreaser) and let them dry in the sunlight. Then right before the adhesion promoter (rustoleum) I wiped them down with Rubbing Alcohol and a microfiber. Follow the directions on the can of adhesion promoter and apply your topcoat in the correct time window. I used Rustoleum bed liner on my flares, and it has held up VERY well. I painted them three years ago, its still holding on and not chipped.
If I can just use the Rustoleum, then I'll save some money. The SEM is expensive. I can probably pick it up locally too. Thank you both.