Anyone have any experience with auto paint?

[JWjeepSask]

If the factory paint is in good shape you are much better off not striping it. The new paint will adhere better to property peeped factory paint.

The paint is black and scratched to shit. It's just a set of half doors not the whole jeep


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[glwood]

I wish I had a weekend... super busy this quarter in school plus work and the lady friend takes up all my time. I'll deal with the paint till I get a full week to prep it and shoot where I'm not rushed. Thanks for advice!!

I don't suppose the lady friend wants to learn body work/paint removal techniques...?

 

[badlieutenant]

I really wish I could repaint my LJR... but a real repaint.

Like, pull the engine, remove all current paint/primer, reprimer, repaint with factory blue color used on TJ's in like 1998 (the really light blue), put engine back in with all new motor mounts and replace all the brittle plastic tubing...



Le sigh

 

[dvibbert]

Try Aircraft Stripper. You can buy it at most auto parts places and even Walmart. Spray it on the paint and it will bubble right off. I use it on older cars that I am reprinting

 

[Elkhartjim]

Oh lord, my stomach is churning. I'm a retired body shop owner and I can't tell you how many times we've seen this sort of situation. To the OP, you're getting some sound advice and some not so sound. Take it someplace bite the bullet and spend the money or you'll be in the same situation the person was in that recently (?) painted it - a mess. You have to get all the "new" paint off or you're wasting your time and money. In a situation like this we would bead blast it, not SAND but blast it using plastic beads. This will not destroy the original base coat/clear coat. Rough the finish and re-paint. The aircraft stripper being suggest is a great product but creates another situation to deal with. Wearing protective gear (gloves, eye protection and respirator) we painted it on using a chip brush. It will remove the clear coat, base coat and the primer/sealer so you're now down to the metal. Unless you use an etching primer before re-painting, you will be able to peel the new paint off with your fingernail. If you decide to prep it yourself, buy a cheap DA (dual action) sander from Harbor Freight to use, do not use a grinder. Bottom line, you're going to spend many, many man hours and several dollars and still ending up with something not much better than you started with. I've seen it time and time again. The old adage of if you can't do it right, don't do it at all could not be truer. Good luck to you whichever way you decide to go.

 

[dylansalrin]

Oh lord, my stomach is churning. I'm a retired body shop owner and I can't tell you how many times we've seen this sort of situation. To the OP, you're getting some sound advice and some not so sound. Take it someplace bite the bullet and spend the money or you'll be in the same situation the person was in that recently (?) painted it - a mess. You have to get all the "new" paint off or you're wasting your time and money. In a situation like this we would bead blast it, not SAND but blast it using plastic beads. This will not destroy the original base coat/clear coat. Rough the finish and re-paint. The aircraft stripper being suggest is a great product but creates another situation to deal with. Wearing protective gear (gloves, eye protection and respirator) we painted it on using a chip brush. It will remove the clear coat, base coat and the primer/sealer so you're now down to the metal. Unless you use an etching primer before re-painting, you will be able to peel the new paint off with your fingernail. If you decide to prep it yourself, buy a cheap DA (dual action) sander from Harbor Freight to use, do not use a grinder. Bottom line, you're going to spend many, many man hours and several dollars and still ending up with something not much better than you started with. I've seen it time and time again. The old adage of if you can't do it right, don't do it at all could not be truer. Good luck to you whichever way you decide to go.

Wow awesome advice! Thanks, just so I 100% get what ur saying, if I wanted to just repaint the entire jeep myself, I would still have to remove all the black before I could sand it and spray the primer? Couldn't I just sand the "new paint" and it would come off with the sanding? at this point I'm not worried about the clear coat as I accepted it will never be to its factory color

 

[Elkhartjim]

Yes...ALL the black will have to be removed. You can just sand it off but if you're going to do it by hand I would estimate 15-20 hours, machine would be closer to 5-8 hours. Start with 180 grit, then 320 and finally 600. If you are painting with a single stage paint the 320 finish is adequate but if you are doing base/clear then finish in 600. After the clear coat is applied you will need to wet sand with 1500 or 2000 before buffing to get the final shine. Good luck. FYI, for a novice I would suspect you're looking at well over 40 man hours and realistically closer to 60. I hope I've helped some.

On edit: I looked at your profile and see your age. Go for it! You'll learn a lot. How near to Lake Geneva are you? I have a friend in the body shop business there.

 

[dylansalrin]

Yes...ALL the black will have to be removed. You can just sand it off but if you're going to do it by hand I would estimate 15-20 hours, machine would be closer to 5-8 hours. Start with 180 grit, then 320 and finally 600. If you are painting with a single stage paint the 320 finish is adequate but if you are doing base/clear then finish in 600. After the clear coat is applied you will need to wet sand with 1500 or 2000 before buffing to get the final shine. Good luck. FYI, for a novice I would suspect you're looking at well over 40 man hours and realistically closer to 60. I hope I've helped some.

On edit: I looked at your profile and see your age. Go for it! You'll learn a lot. How near to Lake Geneva are you? I have a friend in the body shop business there.

About 5 hours away! Sadly. Thanks again for the info! Super helpful