Seeking input on going to 35s

[PAT04TJ]

I’ve had my TJ for about 2yrs now and it’s still stock. I don’t daily drive it so I put it in some pretty ugly spots as often as I can. I’ve been going back and forth with the investment into 35”s or if I could get my desired trail performance/reliability with other less $$demanding improvements. My budget is ideally 8-9k
2004 Jeep TJ Sport
4.0L Auto
Dana30front/35 rear
3.73gear
31.5”
88kmiles
My plan is to lift 4”
12k winch
Regear to 4.88 Detroit locker front and back and get a new set of 31.5”
My biggest concern is stress on the transmission and axles moving up to 35”s. That and the $. I drive it 10miles to the trail and and home and I’d like the most bang for my buck. I also don’t want to half ass anything or just throw a cheap lift and 35”s on either. Any input would be awesome

 

[Alex01]

My thoughts on a 9k budget for 35's:

Take off rubicon axles (4.10 with lockers)- 3k
Savvy / Currie 4" lift w/antirock - 2.5-3k
Currie Steering - 500
Wheels / Tires - 2k
SSYE/DC Driveshaft - 800
Rear Revolution inner shafts - 500

A bit over 9k but quality cost money.

Future:
Save extra for regear to 5.38 (assuming Dana 44's) . You'll want this with the 42RLE (you'll want this asap)
Front inner shafts
The list can go on forever....


You can use the Dana 35 with 35's but you'll need to add a super 35 kit in order to safely lock it. Assuming you want to move up to 35's I would put 5.13 gears in the axles. I'd price out F/R lockers, a super 35, and see how close you are to buying a set of used Rubicon axles.

At this point also you may want to consider selling the current jeep and buying a rubicon, or a built sport, that someone already invested $$$ into and buy the upgrades for pennies on the dollar.

Welcome to the forum. Ask us to help spend your money and we'll jump right on that opportunity.

 

[motomick76]

Good advice from Alex!

 

[Steel City 06]

If you regear your current axles, go 5.13 and not 4.88. 5.13s are great for 33s and adequate for 35s. Ideally, 5.38 would be best for 35s, but the Dana 30 and Dana 35 cannot be geared that deep. (Dana 44 front and rear axles can be geared to 5.38 or 5.89.)

Do the Super 35 and the Super 30 at the same time.

 

[PAT04TJ]

If you regear your current axles, go 5.13 and not 4.88. 5.13s are great for 33s and adequate for 35s. Ideally, 5.38 would be best for 35s, but the Dana 30 and Dana 35 csnnot be geared that deep. (Dana 44 front and rear axles can be geared to 5.38 or 5.89.)

If you regear your current axles, go 5.13 and not 4.88. 5.13s are great for 33s and adequate for 35s. Ideally, 5.38 would be best for 35s, but the Dana 30 and Dana 35 csnnot be geared that deep. (Dana 44 front and rear axles can be geared to 5.38 or 5.89.)

can I safely put 5.13 in a Dana 30/35?

 

[Juggernaut]

can I safely put 5.13 in a Dana 30/35?

Yes you can, and I wish I had. I'm currently running 4.88 w/ 35's and its less than optimal. Go with the 5.13- you won't regret it.

 

[PAT04TJ]

can I safely put 5.13 in a Dana 30/35?

And can I realistically wheel 35”s on a Dana 30/35 with moderate to heavy abuse

 

[Alex01]

5.13 will be fine in the 35. @Chris made a good chart for regearing based on size and transmission that I can't seem to find.

@Chris can you add that as a sticky to the resources page?

 

[Alex01]

And can I realistically wheel 35”s on a Dana 30/35 with moderate to heavy abuse

Super 35 and Chromoly shafts in the 30. Yes.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Don't forget your Black Magic brakes at a minimum. BBK if you have the cash.

 

[Steel City 06]

From my limited knowledge, the biggest enemy of your axles is wheelspin. If you're stuck and spinning your wheels and one of them catches, you stand a very good chance of breaking something, which often ends up being an axle shaft.

If you're reasonably cautious, a Super 35 will get you through whatever you need it to. A Dana 30 with chromoly shafts is good for most use. A Super 30 is even better.

If you really want to abuse your axles, you'll want a rear Dana 44 with chromoly shafts. There is even a Super 44 upgrade that gives you 33 or 35 spline chromoly shafts. But few, if any, ever rise to that need without going straight to a Dana 60 or larger.

 

[sourbluff]

What Alex suggested is probably the best route, especially if you aren’t in a rush and can wait to find a set of D44s in for sale section here or any of the various FB jeep groups.

Another option is to pick up a Dana 44 rear and HP Dana 30 from an XJ and have them built. Dana 44 rear doesn’t have to be from rubi so aren’t as costly and you are already planning on regear and lockers, etc. I would plan to do new shafts and big brake kit as part of this.

 

[CharlesHS]

When you go to 35" tires; the LP 30 is not as strong as the HP 30, but can be used IF you want to stay at 33" tires otherwise locking the front LP 30 with 35" will require you to be somewhat light on the skinny pedal.
As for the Dana 35; DONOT place a locker in that differential and expect the axles to tolerate that much torque. I have watched D35s with a locker and 33" tires twist and snap the axles VERY easily.
As others have responded; you need to upgrade the rear differential to a Dana 44 or at the very least the Super 35 and should consider upgrading the front LP 30 to a HP 30, but its not mandatory as long as you are not over zealous with the skinny pedal.

 

[Chris]

Here is the thread:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...angler-tj-lj-and-other-re-gearing-faqs.17063/

 

[PAT04TJ]

When you go to 35" tires; the LP 30 is not as strong as the HP 30, but can be used IF you want to stay at 33" tires otherwise locking the front LP 30 with 35" will require you to be somewhat light on the skinny pedal.
As for the Dana 35; DONOT place a locker in that differential and expect the axles to tolerate that much torque. I have watched D35s with a locker and 33" tires twist and snap the axles VERY easily.
As others have responded; you need to upgrade the rear differential to a Dana 44 or at the very least the Super 35 and should consider upgrading the front LP 30 to a HP 30, but its not mandatory as long as you are not over zealous with the skinny pedal.

When you go to 35" tires; the LP 30 is not as strong as the HP 30, but can be used IF you want to stay at 33" tires otherwise locking the front LP 30 with 35" will require you to be somewhat light on the skinny pedal.
As for the Dana 35; DONOT place a locker in that differential and expect the axles to tolerate that much torque. I have watched D35s with a locker and 33" tires twist and snap the axles VERY easily.
As others have responded; you need to upgrade the rear differential to a Dana 44 or at the very least the Super 35 and should consider upgrading the front LP 30 to a HP 30, but its not mandatory as long as you are not over zealous with the skinny pedal.

When you go to 35" tires; the LP 30 is not as strong as the HP 30, but can be used IF you want to stay at 33" tires otherwise locking the front LP 30 with 35" will require you to be somewhat light on the skinny pedal.
As for the Dana 35; DONOT place a locker in that differential and expect the axles to tolerate that much torque. I have watched D35s with a locker and 33" tires twist and snap the axles VERY easily.
As others have responded; you need to upgrade the rear differential to a Dana 44 or at the very least the Super 35 and should consider upgrading the front LP 30 to a HP 30, but its not mandatory as long as you are not over zealous with the skinny pedal.

So should I not consider a locker on a dana30 or dana35 regardless or tire size? I’m more than ok not going to 35”s. I have an open diff and would like to change that. And could care less how it looks with a 4”lift and 31.5”s. I feel like my open diff has been the biggest hurdle when I’m on trails. But idk if I would feel the same with bigger tires

 

[PAT04TJ]

Here is the thread:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...angler-tj-lj-and-other-re-gearing-faqs.17063/

So without running 5.38 gears which would require a Dana 44 I wouldn’t be running the 42rle transmission “optimally”, from what I’ve gathered most are not satisfied with 5.13 and 35”s..?

 

[Alex01]

So should I not consider a locker on a dana30 or dana35 regardless or tire size? I’m more than ok not going to 35”s. I have an open diff and would like to change that. And could care less how it looks with a 4”lift and 31.5”s. I feel like my open diff has been the biggest hurdle when I’m on trails. But idk if I would feel the same with bigger tires

If you lock the Dana 35 you'll need a super 35 kit. A super 35 kit is good up to 35" tires. The dana 30 will need Chromoly shafts to handle 35s.

So without running 5.38 gears which would require a Dana 44 I wouldn’t be running the 42rle transmission “optimally”, from what I’ve gathered most are not satisfied with 5.13 and 35”s..?

5.13 and 35 will be better than the 3.73 on 31.5's.

35 (5.13) on the left 31.5 (3.73) on the right.

 

[CharlesHS]

So should I not consider a locker on a dana30 or dana35 regardless or tire size? I’m more than ok not going to 35”s. I have an open diff and would like to change that. And could care less how it looks with a 4”lift and 31.5”s. I feel like my open diff has been the biggest hurdle when I’m on trails. But idk if I would feel the same with bigger tires

Definitely DONOT install a locker in a Dana 35 no matter what size tires you are considering unless you are doing the Super 35 kit. The LP30 can be used with the larger tires and a locker, but I would be careful with the skinny pedal since its R&P are not as strong as the HP30.

 

[mrblaine]

I would be careful with the skinny pedal since its R&P are not as strong as the HP30.

Pedantically, yes and no. The ring and pinion are about the same strength. What isn't the same is the low pinion is being driven on the coast side of the gear tooth which is a slightly sloped tooth face when compared to the base of the ring gear. The HP is turned on the drive side which is perpendicular to the base of the ring gear.

Driving on the sloped side forces the gear teeth apart under load which then allows the pressure contact area to move out to the thinner less strong end of the tooth which can break them. The straight tooth has far less deflection and lives longer under the same loads.

 

[CharlesHS]

Pedantically, yes and no. The ring and pinion are about the same strength. What isn't the same is the low pinion is being driven on the coast side of the gear tooth which is a slightly sloped tooth face when compared to the base of the ring gear. The HP is turned on the drive side which is perpendicular to the base of the ring gear.

Driving on the sloped side forces the gear teeth apart under load which then allows the pressure contact area to move out to the thinner less strong end of the tooth which can break them. The straight tooth has far less deflection and lives longer under the same loads.

I needed to look up that word.... and yes....