I hate my Jeep

[SolarCool TJ]

What are your future plans for the TJ? Are you sticking with 33's? Ever plan on going 35's? Are you going to wheel it on more difficult trails?

If you're just wanting to run 33's and stay on pavement, I'd go with the OME.

If you plan on going a little more crazy, I'd go Savvy.

The Savvy/Currie opens up more options. The OME keeps your options limited.

I was planning on sticking with 33's, it is a DD and will continue to be . Any serious off-roading wich i have never done, and more than likely will not be doing, probably can't be done with my stock axles anyway. So, I'm thinking the 33'' rubber is all it will ever be. Also if I'm not mistaken, bumping up to 35's would require a brake upgrade as well, and some re-gearing to make it "right"

However the real point is..I am not against upgrading and going with
Currie/SAvvy arms
Currie/Savvy trackbars
combined with..
OME coils
OME shocks
BL and MML

Wouldn't i be covered for the future as long as i had the Currie/Savvy arms, and TB's ? Seems like all i would need to do down the road is replace the OME coils and shocks? Right now my main concern is clearing the 33'' tires for DD usage, it seems to me, I'm halfway to a complete Savvy/Currie system, minus of course the shocks and coils, wich i can do later.

Wich one would give me a lower COG? the 2.5" coils and BL? as opposed to the 3-4" suspension only?

 

[SolarCool TJ]

What all is on your Jeep now? Do you have adjustable control arms and a SYE? Do you have a transfer case drop?

If I was starting from scratch I would include a BL & MML, but that is for where I want to end up someday. The BL/MML give you a better rear driveline angle that is needed when you raise the belly up and can also help avoid a SYE/DC driveshaft with lower lift heights (from what I understand, I'm no expert by any means. I just know what has worked for me and what I've learned on the internets over the last year and a half). When you do revise your lift you should also take the springs and rubber bump stops out and cycle the suspension with shocks on through its whole range of motion. One tire down, one up, both up, etc. for both axles then use what interference's you find there to determine your bump stop lengths. A stock TJ had about 4" of up travel from the factory and I wouldn't want to go any less than that for ride quality purposes. I'm currently at 4.75" but would like more in the future.

I have the SYE/DC shaft , so i have that base already covered. Is your jeep your DD?

 

[SolarCool TJ]

With the 4" RC coils and shocks I was running a 35" tire. I had 6" front and 7" rear between the flares and the top of the tires.
Remember, the spring holds up the weight, the shock controls the ride.

So, whats up with my rear coils? pun intended! I have 9'' from the tire to the bottom of the flare on driver side, and 9 3/4" on the passenger side. Everybody scratches their head when i tell them its just a 4'' lift. I'm pretty sure i can stuff 35'' and probably 37's in there. weird.

 

[xxdabroxx]

I personally don't worry about the COG much if at all at reasonable lift heights. I'm at 4" with a currie antirock set at the second to loosest setting and I DD my Jeep.

Don't doubt your stock axles capabilities. I had mine on the rubicon trail last year and it did just fine. I've upgraded to an E-locker in the front and a truetrack in the back with chromo shafts. The stock axles are more than up to 33" tires so long as you don't abuse them. @mrblaine has a helper who regularly runs Johnson Valley trails on 35" tires with a Super 35 kit in the back of his rig.

If you aren't planning on going to bigger than 33" tires and don't have plans for a TT/ raising the gas tank skid, extending the shocks for more travel then I think I'd stick with the suspension lift alone. You are already set up for it IMO, now it's just what you want to upgrade. If you don't have any driveline vibrations currently I'd start by replacing your shocks, checking tire pressure and work your way up from there. And the track bar/ drop pitman.

I've got a soft top and minimal armor add ons, I run 24psi or so in my tires. That along with the Rancho RS5000X shocks has greatly improved my ride over how it was when I bought it (still room for improvement but I'm much happier for the minimal investment). I replaced my control arms because I had fixed Pro Comp arms that I was afraid would damage their brackets. I did the front track bar with a metalcloak because I had a stock one that had my axle off center (I'd prefer a currie, but money was tight at the time.)

 

[xxdabroxx]

If you want to measure your actual lift height you need to measure the length of the coils. I can't remember what they were factory off the top of my head, I think 12" front and 8" rear but I'm not 100%.

My jeep leans a little, I don't worry about it.

 

[bobthetj03]

I think it would be kind of a wash either way as far as COG is concerned. Both lifts are top shelf, so I don't think you could go wrong with either choice. I'm not a fan of Body lifts, so the 4" suspension lift would be my choice. And, since you won't be doing any hard core wheeling, you really won't need the tummy tuck mod.

 

[SolarCool TJ]

Is it me, or does the rear look like more than a 4'' normally does?

 

[xxdabroxx]

Could have really stiff springs. Some springs are known to give more than advertised lift amount and you have no top or doors on.

 

[SolarCool TJ]

I personally don't worry about the COG much if at all at reasonable lift heights. I'm at 4" with a currie antirock set at the second to loosest setting and I DD my Jeep.

Don't doubt your stock axles capabilities. I had mine on the rubicon trail last year and it did just fine. I've upgraded to an E-locker in the front and a truetrack in the back with chromo shafts. The stock axles are more than up to 33" tires so long as you don't abuse them. @mrblaine has a helper who regularly runs Johnson Valley trails on 35" tires with a Super 35 kit in the back of his rig.

If you aren't planning on going to bigger than 33" tires and don't have plans for a TT/ raising the gas tank skid, extending the shocks for more travel then I think I'd stick with the suspension lift alone. You are already set up for it IMO, now it's just what you want to upgrade. If you don't have any driveline vibrations currently I'd start by replacing your shocks, checking tire pressure and work your way up from there. And the track bar/ drop pitman.

I've got a soft top and minimal armor add ons, I run 24psi or so in my tires. That along with the Rancho RS5000X shocks has greatly improved my ride over how it was when I bought it (still room for improvement but I'm much happier for the minimal investment). I replaced my control arms because I had fixed Pro Comp arms that I was afraid would damage their brackets. I did the front track bar with a metalcloak because I had a stock one that had my axle off center (I'd prefer a currie, but money was tight at the time.)

Sorry dab,Did you mean to say...add the TB's and lose the drop pitman?

 

[JeepNWilly]

I see that we are almost neighbors in South Florida :beer-toast1:

Shocks are a big thing for the ride. I have never used any RC shocks. Also when it comes down to a short arm lift the taller the lift the rougher the ride. The angle of the arms get steeper as the lift gets bigger. When driving the suspension movement tends to push up and back towards the control arm because of the steep angle of the arms. In my humble opinion the best ride possible on a Jeep lifted 4" or higher is a long arm lift. Unfortunately they are also a lot more $$$$.

I run the 6inch Long Arm Lift but I put Bilstein shocks instead of the RC shocks and I couldn't be any happier.

To run 33's a 3.5" lift should be enough and offer a better ride quality than a 4".

I wonder if they screwed up and sent 6" coils instead of the 4" coils.

 

[JMT]

If you want to measure your actual lift height you need to measure the length of the coils. I can't remember what they were factory off the top of my head, I think 12" front and 8" rear but I'm not 100%.

My jeep leans a little, I don't worry about it.

Those numbers are correct, and that is the measurement you want to make. They will tell you your true lift...Also, you get lean because the TJ leans unless the coil springs compensate for it. On the OME one side is slightly taller spring than the other so you are level. I was leaning with my BB. After the OME I stuck a level on both front and rear bumpers and was pretty much perfect. I'm sure Currie does the same. Just make sure you put the right coil on the correct side when you get to that point...

 

[SolarCool TJ]

Could have really stiff springs. Some springs are known to give more than advertised lift amount and you have no top or doors on.

True, thats what i like about OME, I can tell them exactly how i run, and what my normal load is, and they can tune my coils to my specific application. Unlike the RC coils, " you got your jeep lifted, now shut up and don't complain about the way it drives or handles" one size fits all applications. I haven't asked yet, but will currie/savvy do the same as OME as far as matching the coils to your specific application?

 

[SolarCool TJ]

I see that we are almost neighbors in South Florida :beer-toast1:

Shocks are a big thing for the ride. I have never used any RC shocks. Also when it comes down to a short arm lift the taller the lift the rougher the ride. The angle of the arms get steeper as the lift gets bigger. When driving the suspension movement tends to push up and back towards the control arm because of the steep angle of the arms. In my humble opinion the best ride possible on a Jeep lifted 4" or higher is a long arm lift. Unfortunately they are also a lot more $$$$.

I run the 6inch Long Arm Lift but I put Bilstein shocks instead of the RC shocks and I couldn't be any happier.

To run 33's a 3.5" lift should be enough and offer a better ride quality than a 4".

I wonder if they screwed up and sent 6" coils instead of the 4" coils.

South Florida represent! Hmmm..you took the words strait out of my mouth...i was thinking the same exact thing. Ive seen plenty of 4'' rigs and mine seems to trump all of them. From what i know now, I wouldn't be surprised if they did send 6'' instead of 4''.

 

[xxdabroxx]

Measure the length of the spring at ride height. That will give us a better idea of what you are really working with.

 

[JeepNWilly]

Here is a pic of the 6" I run 35" tires

 

[bobthetj03]

South Florida represent! Hmmm..you took the words strait out of my mouth...i was thinking the same exact thing. Ive seen plenty of 4'' rigs and mine seems to trump all of them. From what i know now, I wouldn't be surprised if they did send 6'' instead of 4''.

That would explain part of the crappy ride characteristics if indeed they sent you 6" springs instead of 4". 6" lift on short arms put the angles of the arms in a not so good geometry which could create that harsh ride.

 

[SolarCool TJ]

Here is a pic of the 6" I run 35" tires

View attachment 14558

Very Nice, looks just like mine. Not! haha

 

[JeepNWilly]

Very Nice, looks just like mine. Not! haha

Comparing the pics they look about the same height LOL

 

[SolarCool TJ]

Measure the length of the spring at ride height. That will give us a better idea of what you are really working with.

just measured, i got 12" of spring compressed at ride height. sound about right?

 

[xxdabroxx]

Sounds like a 4" lift. What are your front springs at?