Build plan for 33s
- Thread starter Wsutherlin
- Start date
Wrangler folks call them 4.10, because Chrysler did. But actually, either 4.10 or 4.11 is correct, and identical. Other manufacturers may always call it a 4.11. Same with 4.55 and 4.56. That's because the actual ratio, on the 4.56, is usually 41 teeth on the ring, and 9 teeth on the pinion, for 41 / 9 = 4.55555... So you can round down and call it a 4.55, or round up and call it a 4.56. The same applies to most gear ratios.
Not identical… ring gear diameters are diferent.
4:10’s in the front Dana 30
4:11’s in the rear Dana 35 or 44
4:10’s in the front Dana 30
4:11’s in the rear Dana 35 or 44
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
Dana 30: 41 & 10 teeth ring and pinion, respectively. That calculates to 4.10.
Dana 35: 37 & 9 teeth, which calculates to 4.111111111111111.
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Ok, I made the assumption that most gear sets were like the ones I saw, where both the Dana 30 and Dana 44 were 41 and 9. I don't know the brand, it's been a while. I stand corrected (and glad to learn something).
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
Those specs are from Spicer. I assume most other brands are the same tooth count. I recall the situation was similar with my Nitro 4.55/4.56 gears.
- 4-OME Sport Series Shocks
- 4-OME Coil Springs (HD springs)
- JKS “Quicker” Disconnects
- JKS 1.25″ Body Lift (NO)
- Brown dog mml (NO)
- JKS Adj. Track bar (front) JKS Adj. Trackbar (rear)
- DPG 2″ Extended Bump stops (Front & rear)
- JKS Adj Rear Swaybar End Links
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I've had a few different guys ask me if i swapped wider axles into my rig when they see the 15x10's and 33's. It's a bit much. Lots of caster and tight suspension makes it drive ok albiet darty and wandering a bit. I'll be going to 15x8's with the next tire change
Can definitely feel the bad scrub radius when roads have ruts in them. I wouldn’t have gone this wide if I knew how bad it was back then. I will be swapping to jk 7.5in wide wheels with 2in spacers soon.
1:100th is less than the difference in tires. Manufacturers do it all the time. 4.09,4.10 and 4.11 are used interchangeably.
For vibration reasons it is best to stick with stock style mounts unless you want your dash and other parts of the jeep singing to you at idle and low rpm
Because the rubber bushing Brown Dogs are known to increase vibes. I used them for 7 years. Then I swapped to MORE with rubber bushings for 3 months with little change. The best is your OEM motor mounts with a 1” spacer (JKS, Rough Country, and others make an aluminum spacer.
UPDATE. How is this?
DPG off-road ultimate kit:
4:10 gears
Truetrac in rear
33x12.5r15 bfg ko2s
15x8 Micky Thompson classics
DPG off-road ultimate kit:
- OME Sport Series Shocks
- OME Coil Springs (HD springs)
- JKS “Quicker” Disconnects
- Black magic 1.25″ Body Lift
- 1” spacer mml (stock mount)
- JKS Adj. Track bar (front) JKS Adj. Trackbar (rear)
- DPG 2″ Extended Bump stops (Front & rear)
- JKS Adj Rear Swaybar End Links
4:10 gears
Truetrac in rear
33x12.5r15 bfg ko2s
15x8 Micky Thompson classics
I bought this exact setup back in 2020. I would highly suggest you not buy the Brown Dogs and the JKS body lift. The brown dogs were replaced a few weeks after installation after chasing horrible vibes at idle, and the jks had to be replaced because they indeed squished. I have pics to prove it but don’t feel like digging. Also, Dirk disappeared off the map when I had problems with some JKS parts I received.
JKS blocks and crown motor mounts. Couldn’t find Mopar because I decided to do my lift during Covid. 4 years later still no problems. Find mopar if you can though if you go that route.
Add a MORE 1 in steering shaft lift in your build too. Puts the shaft back at a good angle and gives you a chance to lube the bearing in there.
I installed the jks aluminum block MML with anchor brand OEM style rubber mounts a few months ago and haven't noticed an increase in vibes. I don't think the Mopar mounts are still available.
To OP,
If your factory motor mounts are still good, it's completely up to you whether you want to replace them or not. When I did my MML last summer, I inspected my 20 year old factory mounts and they were fine, so I didn't replace them. I probably would have if I could have found Mopar mounts at a decent price, but I couldn't. Just something to consider if yours are still good.
I decided to go with Rough Country for my MML. Rough Country is generally a company to avoid, but the MML is literally just a block of aluminum. Hard to screw that up. It was considerably cheaper than others I found, so I bought it.
EDIT: I just checked Amazon and it looks like the RC and JKS MML are the same price now, so disregard my 2nd paragraph.
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