Mysterious stalling issues

Dabston63

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Original poster
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Sep 1, 2020
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Location
Tuscaloosa AL
I have a 97 tj with the 2.5 manual transmission. Jeep stalls every once in a while, usually at the worst time possible, at a red light or date night with my fiance you know whenever the best possible opportunity for embarrassment. I've searched numerous threads and I've been grateful for all insight. Here's all the parts thrown at it so far. Plugs, wires, rotor button, distributer cap. Throttle position sensor, IAC, map sensor, crankshaft position sensor. All mopar. 02 sensor upstream ngk. Fuel pump delphi. Even upgrading throttle body hoping for the best. The weird thing is after I'd replace something it would run fine for a month or so giving me false hope and then it would go right back to the same old symptoms. First while driving it starts Losing power almost like losing fuel. Finally dies and won't start. But after about 10 minutes or so it starts right up, and I rush home. Other instances would be at a stop and idles very low to where I have to feather it to keep it running. I'm clutching at straws now exploring fuel injectors and even coil packs. Kinda wish something major would finally break so I'd know what to fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Can we assume it's not throwing any error codes or check engine lights?
 
No check engine lights. Haven't bought a OBD2 scanner yet. I know this is a dead horse topic and I apologize for that. But I've been all over similar threads and shooting from the hip trying everything mentioned in previous posts.
 
Think this may be the culprit?

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Well false hope once again. I bought a obd2 scanner it threw a p0138 code which signifies the downstream 02 sensor which I would expect because of no catalytic converter. 02 sensor is zip tied loosely under vehicle. But anyway I changed the upstream 02 sensor and it drove fine for a couple of days. Coming home from work on the interstate and once again it does the same thing. I'm curious about exploring the possibility of changing the camshaft position sensor. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
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With my experience, a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor would likely throw a code related to it. Though it may be worth a shot.

Have you checked and cleaned all of the terminals and especially the grounds? The ground on the engine block is especially notorious for causing issues. Take some steel wool and make any connections shiny where the parts mate.

You might also consider having the PCM tested. I believe @Wranglerfix can test a PCM (probably for a fee).
 
If you know where the crank sensor is next time pour a bottle of cold water over it and see if it starts.
 
Terminals are clean due to a recent battery upgrade, they are worn out but functional. I just bought new ones which I will be installing soon. I'll check out the grounds thanks.
 
I was tuning mine up (00 2.5) and broke the dist. cap screws, so had to buy a new dist......installed it carefully and ....no start. Just trying stuff...I installed the old cam sensor (the thing that fits inside the distributer under the rotor) and it cranked and ran great. So, yours may be bad. I would try a new one. I wish I knew how to test one to see if it was good. I got the parts place I got the distributor from to give me a new one in a box as a replacement for the bad one in the new dist. Heck...it may be bad too, but I ain't gonna take a good running one out to see...ha ha
Good Luck
 
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I was going to install a coil pack, and cam sensor today. I could only find bwd products nearby. Anyone had any bad experiences with their products?
 
RockAuto usually has an array of sensors and parts for a decent price. I used an NTK coil pack without issue, though I haven't had good luck with their crankshaft or camshaft position sensors. The Crown camshaft position sensor that came with my Crown OPDA (the OPDA replaces the distributor on later models) has worked fine for 20,000 or so miles.
 
With my experience, a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor would likely throw a code related to it. Though it may be worth a shot.

Have you checked and cleaned all of the terminals and especially the grounds? The ground on the engine block is especially notorious for causing issues. Take some steel wool and make any connections shiny where the parts mate.

You might also consider having the PCM tested. I believe @Wranglerfix can test a PCM (probably for a fee).

With my experience, a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor would likely throw a code related to it. Though it may be worth a shot.

Have you checked and cleaned all of the terminals and especially the grounds? The ground on the engine block is especially notorious for causing issues. Take some steel wool and make any connections shiny where the parts mate.

You might also consider having the PCM tested. I believe @Wranglerfix can test a PCM (probably for a fee).
The ground that you are referring to, is it located with the bracket that holds the oil dipstick in place. I noticed one there. Is this the only one?
 
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I've recently installed the crt performance tune up kit which consists of a coil pack. Distributer cap, rotor button, and and larger gauge plug wires. Along with a mopar camshaft position sensor. Of coarse it starts up and drives fine but I'm still not 100% confident that my problem is solved. I noticed when doing these upgrades the cover on the pcm had water on it. Low and behold there was surface rush on the pcm casing. The gasket in between the body and hood ends right at the point above the pcm telling me that saturation is occurring every time it rains. So looks like I'm probably about to be I. The market for a pcm. I know wranglerfix offers one for around $800. I've read to stay away from fs1. Ares technologies offers one for around $275. Anyone used any other aftermarket pcm supplier or should I go ahead with wranglerfix. I'm way past the point of being thrifty so I probably just answered my own question, just thought I'd ask. Thanks to everyone in advance
 
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I've recently installed the crt performance tune up kit which consists of a coil pack. Distributer cap, rotor button, and and larger gauge plug wires. Along with a mopar camshaft position sensor. Of coarse it starts up and drives fine but I'm still not 100% confident that my problem is solved. I noticed when doing these upgrades the cover on the pcm had water on it. Low and behold there was surface rush on the pcm casing. The gasket in between the body and hood ends right at the point above the pcm telling me that saturation is occurring every time it rains. So looks like I'm probably about to be I. The market for a pcm. I know wranglerfix offers one for around $800. I've read to stay away from fs1. Ares technologies offers one for around $275. Anyone used any other aftermarket pcm supplier or should I go ahead with wranglerfix. I'm way past the point of being thrifty so I probably just answered my own question, just thought I'd ask. Thanks to everyone in advance

Good morning Dabstone,

Give me a call when you get up to discuss the pcm. 866-888-7710.

Thanks,

Mark Cantrell
 
Take the ecm connectors off and spray some contact cleaner into them (same for Ecm) and do a visual inspection for bent pens or corrosion. This gets rid of any dust, dirt and debris, fast evaporating no residue…Do not use dielectric grease as it causes connectivity issues over time as it gets chalk over time.
 
Recently resolved a stalling issue and wanted to share. Had two stalls on downhill slopes but was able to restart right away. Got a check engine later while on the freeway, though no noticeable changes to performance. At a later startup, the engine would idle (neutral or park) at 2,000 rpms. After checking the forums for a P0300 (multi-misfire) I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coil. While attempting to replace the crankshaft position sensor, I noticed the wire was melted and exposing wire - as it came into contact with the exhaust manifold. Replaced the sensor and its running fine again. Fingers crossed no other issues.
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Well, I recieved my new pcm from wranglerfix and installed it and of course my problem continues. Could a faulty temperature sending unit possibly be my problem? The jeep drives fine until the engine warms up. Could it be sending a signal to the pcm of overheating causing a shutdown? I dunno, I'm running out of things to replace. Once it stalls I let it sit for about 10 to 20 minutes until it cools a little. Then it will fire up a drive for a few hundred yards and then it does the same thing. Just wondering if this sounds plausible to anyone. As you can probably tell I'm a desperate man.