Air lockers vs. electric lockers

What is happening? Does it unlock when backing up and then slip? Or is it just a instant? what is the "E" mechanism? Is it a solenoid (piston inside magneto)?
It unlocks when backing up and requires about a 3rd to half wheel rotation to lock back up on it's own. My buddy had it on his front axle in his buggy and was doing a very tricky hard line on a hill, off camber, with large size rocks. He let off the gas a bit and let it roll back slightly and it caused the axle to unlock. By the time it re-engaged, his tire spun enough to slip him sideways and he lost the line. He even had sticky Krawlers but the loss of traction on one side kept him from forward momentum. The next time I saw him on the trail, he removed the e-locker and put in an ARB and sold the e-locker.
 
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It unlocks when backing up and requires about a 3rd to half wheel rotation to lock back up on it's own. My buddy had it on his front axle in his buggy and was doing a very tricky hard line on a hill, off camber, with large size rocks. He let off the gas a bit and let it roll back slightly and it caused the axle to unlock. By the time it re-engaged, his tire spun enough to slip him sideways and he lost the line. He even had sticky Krawlers but the loss of traction on one side kept him from forward momentum. The next time I saw him on the trail, he removed the e-locker and put in an ARB and sold the e-locker.
Copy that!! If it was only 1" either way, maybe but that much turn to re-engage makes it a no go for the stuff here in So. Cal.
 
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Are you asking do they have seal issues also?
I'm just asking in general. Should I consider Ox (air) or Yukon or other brands as well? Or pass?

Interesting thread thus far, I'm learning a lot and thank you to everyone! I don't like the apparent - and experienced - cost of parts for the ARB, and I am liking the "no internal seals" approach of the air Ox. Eaton sounds pretty solid too. Keep the conversation coming - I am appreciating it.

I'm probably going to go with a lunchbox up front - and do it first.
 
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I am considering Yukon zip if for no other reason than you can get it for like $725 on Amazon while ARB is $990 everywhere I look. When doing both axles that pays for gears.
 
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It unlocks when backing up and requires about a 3rd to half wheel rotation to lock back up on it's own. My buddy had it on his front axle in his buggy and was doing a very tricky hard line on a hill, off camber, with large size rocks. He let off the gas a bit and let it roll back slightly and it caused the axle to unlock. By the time it re-engaged, his tire spun enough to slip him sideways and he lost the line. He even had sticky Krawlers but the loss of traction on one side kept him from forward momentum. The next time I saw him on the trail, he removed the e-locker and put in an ARB and sold the e-locker.
Someone earlier in the thread mentioned several different designs of the e-locker. I wonder if your buddy had the older version?
 
My dad (first owner of my '02) put in lockers shortly after buying the Jeep new. He went with ARB in front and Detroit in rear. I still have this combo, so I will just add my experience with the two.

Detroit is solid, reliable and always 'locked', so it does bang pretty loud once in a while to relieve the bind and it can be kind of annoying going around a corner or putting too much gas down on the road, but easy enough to get used to. It also takes getting used to the squirreliness in wet conditions as the rear is locked all the time, but you get used to it.

The ARB is also quite reliable, but I have developed a slow leak somewhere in my air lines (haven't pinpointed it yet) which causes the compressor to kick on a lot and it is quite loud. This is quite annoying, so ARB gets a minus on the potential for a loud compressor kicking on. As far as reliability and working when needed, no complaints.
 
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Both are great quality lockers, it does require more expertise and experience to install the ARB. Schlock shops should never be given your Jeep as their first Guinea Pig ARB installation.

If my rear locker takes a dump I'd probably be leaning toward the E-Locker. A few ARB installers I talked with on a couple wheeling trips complained about recent seal problems with ARBs. They weren't pushing a different brand, they were just pissed ARB wasn't helping with their labor costs to replace failed seals provided under warranty. Maybe BS or misunderstanding the problem, I don't know.


Were they talking about the o-ring seals?
 
It unlocks when backing up and requires about a 3rd to half wheel rotation to lock back up on it's own. My buddy had it on his front axle in his buggy and was doing a very tricky hard line on a hill, off camber, with large size rocks. He let off the gas a bit and let it roll back slightly and it caused the axle to unlock. By the time it re-engaged, his tire spun enough to slip him sideways and he lost the line. He even had sticky Krawlers but the loss of traction on one side kept him from forward momentum. The next time I saw him on the trail, he removed the e-locker and put in an ARB and sold the e-locker.

Lol.. losing a line... uphill and off camber is not fun.
 
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I'm just asking in general. Should I consider Ox (air) or Yukon or other brands as well? Or pass?

Interesting thread thus far, I'm learning a lot and thank you to everyone! I don't like the apparent - and experienced - cost of parts for the ARB, and I am liking the "no internal seals" approach of the air Ox. Eaton sounds pretty solid too. Keep the conversation coming - I am appreciating it.

I'm probably going to go with a lunchbox up front - and do it first.
The only thing I have against a lunch box is if you decided to regear you have to take the carrier out anyway and set it up for the new ring and pinion. May as well just replace the entire carrier while you are at it. That and they cost about 300-400 dollars. Last year on Black Friday I got my grizzly locker for the front for 425 bucks
 
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When you look at axles you have to look at the end goal for what you want the Jeep to be. What tire size and gear ratio do you want to run. If you are going to be on 31’ tires and not regear than ya a lunchbox is a good option but If you go any larger I would really look at the buy once cry once theory. I put 4 k into my axles but I have them fully built and regeared with new ball joints and wheel bearings . It’s done and I don’t have to worry about it anymore
 
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Were they talking about the o-ring seals?
ARB had an issue with their vendor that supplies their internal Bonded Seal. It was not the correct material. I believe it was spec'd out as Viton but the vendor supplied some other material. Quite a bunch of lockers went out with the incorrect seal (mine being one of them). I called after installing a new locker that started to leak internally after a month. That was installed after I had just replaced the seal in the 18 year old locker that was in the Jeep. l thought the old locker was finally worn out. Both the replacement seal on the old locker and the new locker were bad. They were good in sending me a couple of seals for the lockers but it was a PIA to have to remove and replace them several times due to a bad bonded seal.
 
ya .........rollback may have been some part of that E locker thing too, it was over a yr ago and yesterdays dinner is sometimes hard to recall. and it may even have something to do with the stupid magnet.

my OX is air activated or you could go with and E lock too it just pushes the same mechanism with an electrically activated plunger rather than air or cable.

for my axles there is no ARB option for stock shafts, the diff's must be upgraded to 35 spline axle shafts to use an ARB in JK axles. so it was OE or for about the same as the OX or Eaton or Auburn.
 
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It is pushed in case your air supply stops working. It is designed to correct failures up to the input port., cable and air. Yes the cable sucks. The air system is a winner though. So is their support. The cost to repair a OX is minimal. I recenty broke a cross shaft on my (12yr old) OX. Apparently, they thought all those problematic shafts were out of circulation. My previous owner never wheeled it once. did not even know how to work the T case. The fix was around $50 and some labor. Thanks to some very helpful "Jerry" tips, the process was simple. LOL

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Was this just a run of badly treated metal?

I like the idea of the activation being a collar that shifts like a transmission as apposed to the seals in the ARB. Back when I was choosing you could only get the cable for the OX and after hearing all the issues my one friend had I wasn't going that route. I guess if I was building new axles now I'd have to give it more thought than just auto lockers or selectable lockers.


Before OX offered the Air or Electric option one of the guys in my club designed his own air setup.

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some kind of cover may not be a bad move. the 90* fitting is open and could be sheared if something got in the wrong spot. and i need to get a spare to carry regardless.
 
Was this just a run of badly treated metal?

I like the idea of the activation being a collar that shifts like a transmission as apposed to the seals in the ARB. Back when I was choosing you could only get the cable for the OX and after hearing all the issues my one friend had I wasn't going that route. I guess if I was building new axles now I'd have to give it more thought than just auto lockers or selectable lockers.


Before OX offered the Air or Electric option one of the guys in my club designed his own air setup.

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Yes, note the "spiral" oil lands/Grooves, the break is/was always along that line apparently. The new shaft has a flat ground oil channel, nothing to "ring" the shaft and create risers. Mine broke on the main waterfall going up odessa canyon (close to Calico Ghost town). Nothing unusual happened but it was enough to snap it. Since the repair, I have done the same trail twice, the big sister canyon next to it, The tough trails in Big bear and no prblems, in fact I am REALLY liking this TJ. I do miss my CJ but this is worlds ahead.
 
Yes, note the "spiral" oil lands/Grooves, the break is/was always along that line apparently. The new shaft has a flat ground oil channel, nothing to "ring" the shaft and create risers. Mine broke on the main waterfall going up odessa canyon (close to Calico Ghost town). Nothing unusual happened but it was enough to snap it. Since the repair, I have done the same trail twice, the big sister canyon next to it, The tough trails in Big bear and no prblems, in fact I am REALLY liking this TJ. I do miss my CJ but this is worlds ahead.

I am so PISSED I never got to do Panamint Canyon before it closed "F"n environmentalists......

That is good to know that they fixed the issues. I broke a cross shaft on a Suzuki Samurai diff with the first style of LocRite lockers in 97-98. But that is all I can relate to this.

I'm just happy that there are now SO MANY options available compared to when I started wheelin
 
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I am so PISSED I never got to do Panamint Canyon before it closed "F"n environmentalists......

That is good to know that they fixed the issues. I broke a cross shaft on a Suzuki Samurai diff with the first style of LocRite lockers in 97-98. But that is all I can relate to this.

I'm just happy that there are now SO MANY options available compared to when I started wheelin
Where were you stationed? China Lake?