Anyone selling an aramid product will be quite proud of that fact and make it known through some tidbit in the description.
Soft shackles—proper use and fitting up
- Thread starter WSS
- Start date
I think mine was a little thinner than 2", maybe not but know it was cheaper, like $8 or so. I have a McFadden-Dale Hardware up the street from me. it is a home depot on steroids, but no washers and dryers.
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...ZagAVyWh5dxWRPOBFm5NIVgqGvABAUBxoCbJ8QAvD_BwE
LONGJP2
TJ Expert
So... is everyone removing the steel shackles from their bumpers now; or just when it's time for a recovery? 
Can't remove something that was never there.So... is everyone removing the steel shackles from their bumpers now; or just when it's time for a recovery?
So... is everyone removing the steel shackles from their bumpers now; or just when it's time for a recovery?
I removed mine from the bumpers years ago, long before I ever had a soft shackle.
I removed mine I got tiered of hearing them clanking when they would bang back and forth on my bumper. I still carry one or two but my soft shackels one are my go to ones first.So... is everyone removing the steel shackles from their bumpers now; or just when it's time for a recovery?
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I want to add a few questions. I will lay out the general idea for my questions first. I am looking to make recovery safer and easier for my family. That is the basis of posting this thread. I am trying to wrap my head around the soft shackle idea in hopes of ditching the heavy and hard to use shackles (and snatch blocks).
I did some shopping on amazon and found that the "less expensive" softies had descriptions written in chinglish and probably made in china. The American made softies are 3-4 times the cost and proudly state USA made. I have never used chinese shackles (steel) on my Jeep or in industrial applications. Can someone share if the soft shackles are all the same?
I would tend to buy American anyway, but when safety and specs come in, I will usually default to American made. but then I would only have one softie to hang from my bumper until I could afford another softie to match, it has two tabs, would not look as cool.
Seriously, how many are needed? Same as my Steel shackles? 4? 5? I have one 3/4" shackle on each of our work trucks, along with a 3/4 kinetic rope. I figure I would make do with that on the road, the trail is different.
I notice on the true soft snatch blocks, they are set up for a soft shackle. I like the idea of a piece of aluminum over my heavy steel block. Doing it right would probably save me 20-30lbs of recovery gear weight.
I did some shopping on amazon and found that the "less expensive" softies had descriptions written in chinglish and probably made in china. The American made softies are 3-4 times the cost and proudly state USA made. I have never used chinese shackles (steel) on my Jeep or in industrial applications. Can someone share if the soft shackles are all the same?
I would tend to buy American anyway, but when safety and specs come in, I will usually default to American made. but then I would only have one softie to hang from my bumper until I could afford another softie to match, it has two tabs, would not look as cool.
Seriously, how many are needed? Same as my Steel shackles? 4? 5? I have one 3/4" shackle on each of our work trucks, along with a 3/4 kinetic rope. I figure I would make do with that on the road, the trail is different.
I notice on the true soft snatch blocks, they are set up for a soft shackle. I like the idea of a piece of aluminum over my heavy steel block. Doing it right would probably save me 20-30lbs of recovery gear weight.
I used a chamfer bit I got at Home Depot and then cleaned it up with a dremel. Not total perfection, but doesn’t matter to me. Hit it with some spray paint afterwards.
Picture makes it look slightly worse than it is. Pretty rounded all the way around with no edges.
Picture makes it look slightly worse than it is. Pretty rounded all the way around with no edges.
I would argue that two should be the minimum amount to carry. One for each end of the strap. I have four. TRE has a large tree saver soft shackle. I will eventually get one of those because of the added versatility, beyond using it as a tree strap.
The whys aren't that complicated. Soft shackles are lightweight, fast and easy to use compared to steel shackles. All of that adds up to safer rigging. I do still carry a couple steel shackles just in case I find a scenario where that is the preferred way to connect. But it's been years since I have used them and I'm not sure what scenario I would need one is anymore.
One additional comment about using my soft shackles on the other guys "unprepared" bumper. I don't think much about it.
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The easy answer is they are a shackle and do what a shackle does. If you felt the need to carry 2 steel, carry 2 soft. As you use them and find out all the things they are better at, you may decide you want more. I carry one steel so I have something I can use where it isn't prudent to tear up a softie.
I wouldn't try it but I don't have good luck with stuff like that. The concept is sound.
Mine are almost an exact copy of yours. I may go back and round mine off a bit more.
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This is a helpful tool to have. The 82º taper is what countersunk bolts and machine screws use. Could be used for rounding to, cut the bulk of the taper, then fine tune with a stone or emery cloth. Notice that it is the cheaper of the available sizes (we could use for this job). Dunno why.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N40AEY0/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N40AEY0/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Folks need to be aware that while 82 degree is the most common for what we do, any metric flat head screws will be 90 degree. There are also quite a few 100 degree SAE flat heads so everyone needs to check the angle before assuming they have the right tool.
I did not know metric was 90 (important to know). My shop does a bunch of "plow bolt" holes and all of them are SAE and 82. I did not have very many metric tools till this TJ.
It also helps to know that not all manufacturers sell them by the included angle. Some sell them by the angle of one side.
41 degree for the 82 degree countersink angle.
45 degree for the 90 degree countersink angle.
50 degree for the 100 degree countersink angle.
I also have a 30 degree for the 60 degree countersink angle which is common on tapered washers for studs like on a full float housing end. It also happens to be the same common angle for lug nut seats so you can use lug nuts to mount high steer arms instead of chasing down the tapered washers.