Additional Mods With Zone 4.25" Combo Lift?

[greyghost_lj]

Hello all,
My account is new here on the forums but I've been scouring them for months doing research in anticipation for my build. I got my '06 LJ at the end of December 2020 and I've got big plans ahead for it.

Current Mods (by previous owners):
Steel Bumpers on both ends
Badlands 9000 lb. winch
KC Hilite Pods
275/65R18 Nitto Terra Grappler G2s (Metric 32"s)
18x9 -12mm offset Fuel Assault rims
Rugged Ridge HD Tire Carrier Spare Tire Mount

I want to end up with maximum 33 inch tires because that is all I'll really need (from what I can tell 35s brings in a whole 'nother set of mods and problems to address that I simply do not want to get into). I want to go with the Zone 4.25" Combo Lift as I've found a lot of great feedback for it as a budget lift. I'm also going to get the JKS adjustable track bar, sway bar disconnects, alignment cam bolt kit and pinion cam locks to protect myself from any vibes, and a single steering stabilizer (all part of the kit I configured from Zone). Instead of going with the nitro shocks, I think I'm going to go with the Rancho RS5000x shocks because I've heard they perform well both on and off the road and I'm already tired of using my spine as my suspension with my worn out 200K mile stock shocks.

I was wondering what other mods I will need to accompany these mods. Extended Brake Lines? SYE? Regearing? I'm still relatively new to the jeep thing and want to learn everything I can, hands on.

Side questions:
What's the widest tire I can fit on my 18x9 rims?
My winch cuts on and off when I use it. What is a solution to this? New, more powerful battery?

Thank you guys for the help.

 

[D M]

Nice LJ and welcome to the forum

As far as brake line wise, if the kit does not include them then I would suggest getting these YJ extended brake lines, they work for our gearing. 361 and 362 are the ones you want, along with getting yourself some brand new 3/16" copper crush washers

You should be fine without an SYE since the LJ and its extended wheelbase is happy with angles up to 4-4.5" Suspension lift. That is unless, you want to do a tummy tuck

The rancho RS5000x will do you well... a note to remember, more uptravel is better and will give you the the best ride quality(along with properly set tire psi) and shocks are the limiting factor in travel, always remember that

Good reads-
Tummy tuck thread
SYE thread
Beginners guide to lifting thread

With your 42RLE and 33s, 5.13s would be Ideal, but 5.38s would be better. If you were to ever make the jump to 35s then 5.38s would be the wise choice. Only problem is that 5.38s to my knowledge wont fit inside your factory dana 30 front axle, youd need a dana 44 which are somewhat hard to come by.

 

[greyghost_lj]

Thank you for the input. I was doing some more research on brake lines and the YJ brake lines are definitely the way I'll go. I don't know too much about brake lines so I have a few more questions...

Are those two products all the parts I need for the brake lines? Or are those additional to connect to stock YJ brake lines?

Also, with everything I am doing would I need extended bump stops?

If I keep the stock gearing would it be an absolute dog? As long as I can get up to speed without mashing the pedal through every gear I don't much care.

Maybe once I get out of college and can hit all the trails across the country I want to I will finally justify doing a tummy tuck (I will admit the low hanging skid plate annoys the crap out of me). Not to mention that it costs big bucks.

Thank you!

 

[greyghost_lj]

Nice LJ and welcome to the forum

As far as brake line wise, if the kit does not include them then I would suggest getting these YJ extended brake lines, they work for our gearing. 361 and 362 are the ones you want, along with getting yourself some brand new 3/16" copper crush washers

You should be fine without an SYE since the LJ and its extended wheelbase is happy with angles up to 4-4.5" Suspension lift. That is unless, you want to do a tummy tuck

The rancho RS5000x will do you well... a note to remember, more uptravel is better and will give you the the best ride quality(along with properly set tire psi) and shocks are the limiting factor in travel, always remember that

Good reads-
Tummy tuck thread
SYE thread
Beginners guide to lifting thread

With your 42RLE and 33s, 5.13s would be Ideal, but 5.38s would be better. If you were to ever make the jump to 35s then 5.38s would be the wise choice. Only problem is that 5.38s to my knowledge wont fit inside your factory dana 30 front axle, youd need a dana 44 which are somewhat hard to come by.

Thank you for the input. I was doing some more research on brake lines and the YJ brake lines are definitely the way I'll go. I don't know too much about brake lines so I have a few more questions...

Are those two products all the parts I need for the brake lines? Or are those additional to connect to stock YJ brake lines?

Also, with everything I am doing would I need extended bump stops?

If I keep the stock gearing would it be an absolute dog? As long as I can get up to speed without mashing the pedal through every gear I don't much care.

Maybe once I get out of college and can hit all the trails across the country I want to I will finally justify doing a tummy tuck (I will admit the low hanging skid plate annoys the crap out of me). Not to mention that it costs big bucks.

Thank you!

 

[D M]

Thank you for the input. I was doing some more research on brake lines and the YJ brake lines are definitely the way I'll go. I don't know too much about brake lines so I have a few more questions...

Are those two products all the parts I need for the brake lines? Or are those additional to connect to stock YJ brake lines?

Also, with everything I am doing would I need extended bump stops?

If I keep the stock gearing would it be an absolute dog? As long as I can get up to speed without mashing the pedal through every gear I don't much care.

Maybe once I get out of college and can hit all the trails across the country I want to I will finally justify doing a tummy tuck (I will admit the low hanging skid plate annoys the crap out of me). Not to mention that it costs big bucks.

Thank you!

I believe those are the only two parts you will need for the brakes... don't quote me on that as I am not a brake guru

Yes you would most definitely need extended bump stops, you will want to cycle your suspension as well before ordering shocks so you can get the right ones.

I cant speak power wise with the 42RLE(4 speed auto) and 33s since I have the manual 5 speed, but I can tell you, it sucks, and with the auto, you're gonna be driving with overdrive off most of the time because IIRC the overdrive drops the rpms 66% after 3rd gear which is way too long. You're definitely going to want to re gear one way or the other.

Not that its crazy expensive, if you are going to do a SYE/ DC CV Driveshaft and have a rear adjustable control arms, then all you would need is a skid plate. Just remember, the higher you lift the Tcase= more angles of lift. There is more covered in the tummy tuck thread I posted above, but it takes a lot of work to get a closest to flat skid possible. If you arent in the market for one or dont necessarily need one then I would wait until you can afford. Although, you have an LJ and the longer driveshaft is better since less extreme angles. Feel free to ask if you have more questions

 

[greyghost_lj]

I'll definitely hold off on the tummy tuck. I've got a LOT of saving to do for everything else anyway. Do you know of any threads about cycling suspension?

Last question:
I see a Nitro Gear and Axle 5.13 kit for my front Dana 30 and rear 44 for about $600. How much would it be for labor for regearing?

 

[greyghost_lj]

I believe those are the only two parts you will need for the brakes... don't quote me on that as I am not a brake guru

Yes you would most definitely need extended bump stops, you will want to cycle your suspension as well before ordering shocks so you can get the right ones.

I cant speak power wise with the 42RLE(4 speed auto) and 33s since I have the manual 5 speed, but I can tell you, it sucks, and with the auto, you're gonna be driving with overdrive off most of the time because IIRC the overdrive drops the rpms 66% after 3rd gear which is way too long. You're definitely going to want to re gear one way or the other.

Not that its crazy expensive, if you are going to do a SYE/ DC CV Driveshaft and have a rear adjustable control arms, then all you would need is a skid plate. Just remember, the higher you lift the Tcase= more angles of lift. There is more covered in the tummy tuck thread I posted above, but it takes a lot of work to get a closest to flat skid possible. If you arent in the market for one or dont necessarily need one then I would wait until you can afford. Although, you have an LJ and the longer driveshaft is better since less extreme angles. Feel free to ask if you have more questions

I'll definitely hold off on the tummy tuck. I've got a LOT of saving to do for everything else anyway. Do you know of any threads about cycling suspension?

Last question:
I see a Nitro Gear and Axle 5.13 kit for my front Dana 30 and rear 44 for about $600. How much would it be for labor for regearing?

 

[L J]

I see a Nitro Gear and Axle 5.13 kit for my front Dana 30 and rear 44 for about $600. How much would it be for labor for regearing?

I regeared with Revolution 5.13s for ~$1100 out the door but your market price may vary. As suggested, drive around with the overdrive off and if it's tolerable for you just get used to turning it off everytime you drive. If you do decide to regear, have the installer provide the gears so that they warranty the parts and installation.

 

[LukesfirstJeep]

You'll be fine with that lift and transfer skid lowering spacers until you regear. After that, you'll need adjustable upper rear control arms and an SYE.

 

[Midtenn]

I can only chime in on the regear. I paid $1,800 for 4.56s with TrueTracs. Prior, I was on 35s with 3.07 gears and I hated to drive it. It sat for a month because it sucked to go over 50 mph. The PO said it’s a “trail Jeep” so it didn’t matter.

Not to confuse you, I’m at 4.56 because I have a 5 speed with 33” tires.

 

[greyghost_lj]

I regeared with Revolution 5.13s for ~$1100 out the door but your market price may vary. As suggested, drive around with the overdrive off and if it's tolerable for you just get used to turning it off everytime you drive. If you do decide to regear, have the installer provide the gears so that they warranty the parts and installation.

I turn O/D off whenever I drive anyway up until about 60 mph so that shouldn’t be a problem for me. Thanks for tip on having them buy the parts, I never even thought of that

 

[ErikOffroad]

I have the zone comb lift on my Jeep. Here is what I can say about the kit. It’s great in every category except for what I am about to mention. The front track bar wants you to drill a new hole to relocate it. Don’t do this just order a adjustable front track bar. You don’t have to worry about the one in the rear, the relocation bracket that they provide is good.
Problem number 2, it comes with the correct bump stops to clear 33 12.5 tires but I don’t like how they extend the factory bump stops up top. The best way to do it is to install bump stops on top of the axle cup. The reason I say this is that the front springs will contact the cups if you use what is provided in the kit. They do work but you will hear the springs pinging off the cup.

You won’t need extended brake lines until you go with aftermarket control arms. When I installed aftermarket control arms I got more droop from the axle and it required longer brake lines. I went with the ones from a yj.

I would definitely recommend black magic brake pads.

 

[D M]

You'll be fine with that lift and transfer skid lowering spacers until you regear. After that, you'll need adjustable upper rear control arms and an SYE.

he doesnt need to drop the tcase since he has an LJ. They are vibe free up to 4-4.5" of suspension lift due to the longer driveshaft. Correction- You need upper AND lower adjustable control arms

 

[D M]

Here are the threads you want

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-set-your-bump-stop-on-a-jeep-wrangler-tj.2474/
and

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...nsions-on-a-1997-2006-jeep-wrangler-tj.31063/

 

[Ron505]

My factory brake lines were tight at full droop after I installed my Zone lift. For the price, I'd put the YJ lines on when you do the lift if you plan to disconnect when off-road.

 

[Ron505]

Nice rig!

 

[greyghost_lj]

I have the zone comb lift on my Jeep. Here is what I can say about the kit. It’s great in every category except for what I am about to mention. The front track bar wants you to drill a new hole to relocate it. Don’t do this just order a adjustable front track bar. You don’t have to worry about the one in the rear, the relocation bracket that they provide is good.
Problem number 2, it comes with the correct bump stops to clear 33 12.5 tires but I don’t like how they extend the factory bump stops up top. The best way to do it is to install bump stops on top of the axle cup. The reason I say this is that the front springs will contact the cups if you use what is provided in the kit. They do work but you will hear the springs pinging off the cup.

You won’t need extended brake lines until you go with aftermarket control arms. When I installed aftermarket control arms I got more droop from the axle and it required longer brake lines. I went with the ones from a yj.

I would definitely recommend black magic brake pads.

Glad someone with what I want chimed in. I'll definitely look into the brakes as I do mostly in-city driving here in Raleigh and back home in Myrtle Beach... definitely don't want to rear end someone. Thanks for the input it helped a bunch

 

[greyghost_lj]

he doesnt need to drop the tcase since he has an LJ. They are vibe free up to 4-4.5" of suspension lift due to the longer driveshaft. Correction- You need upper AND lower adjustable control arms

Thank you for clearing that up and the thread links. Is the correction about the control arms referring to your previous response talking about if if I was going to do a SYE/ DC CV Driveshaft?

 

[greyghost_lj]

My factory brake lines were tight at full droop after I installed my Zone lift. For the price, I'd put the YJ lines on when you do the lift if you plan to disconnect when off-road.

Yes I'll likely do the brake lines because they seem pretty cheap and easy to do myself and definitely well worth it. Thanks for letting me know

 

[ErikOffroad]

No problem bud. The only thing else that I left out is I purchased this spring compressor kit off Amazon. Definitely made the install way smoother. I don’t think I paid much money for it.
Also the kit comes with a spacer for the transfer case linkage. I didn’t install it. I instead put in a savvy shift cable because I did a tummy tuck later and decided to get it out of the way.
One last thing the kit came with a bracket to relocate the steering shaft. The directions where a little hard to decipher on this one point. I do have it installed . If you need a picture of it I can take one later.
Some people in the forum told me I didn’t even need to install it and told me to just throw it away but I did end up installing it anyway.