Body Lift Removal Question
- Thread starter Roadhand01
- Start date
ATCKIP
Member
That's what so fun for us new guys trying to learn. I've been all over the net binge learning on lifts and one place says JKS is the standard for 1.5 lifts and now here? LOL My plan is for 33's on a not hard core offroader. What would you suggest for a replacement plan for this 3 inch body lift? I would love to drop a few grand on a complete suspension but it will have to happen in stages. First the body lift must go. Should I return to stock or is the 1 inch body lift recommended. I've got to remove them so I'll be there.
Any body lift that isn't made of a compressible material and also retains the factory isolators is a good start. That rules out JKS and Daystar.
JKS is the Milestar Patagonia of body lifts. Popularity doesn't mean it is any good.
If you can understand bolted connections and why the track bar and front lower control arms really stay in place, then you can understand why JKS is a dumb design.
I have an unopened 1.25" Zone body lift I'm not going to use in the For Sale section if you're interested
My build took a left turn and headed a different direction
My build took a left turn and headed a different direction
ATCKIP
Member
ATCKIP
Member
Out of stock I need a kit with rubber snubbers also....The only ones I have are the 3 inch ones that are installed
ATCKIP
Member
Any tips on replacing 3 inch blocks with 1.25? If I change out one side just enough to get the shorter bolts started will it cause issues with the other side?
Have you been able to find installation instructions for the 3 inch BL? Might provide some insight.
ATCKIP
Member
I have...but not knowing what BL was installed leaves questions. The pucks are pretty straight forward. I see the transfer shifter drop and I know about the radiator. But there is mention of steering shaft extensions and even shifter drop brackets in some kits. I'm not sure what I looking for in the steering shaft area
Looks like a typical 3” body lift
I would order up a Crown Automotive complete replacement body bushing set and a M.O.R.E. 1” body lift “puck” set. Everything you need will be there. Ya definitely need to remove those huge hoops under the radiator support. The M.O.R.E. kit will have the steering shaft bracket you need , new radiator supports and the correct transfer case shifter bracket.
Until you dig in it’s truly a guess as to what else may need to be raised Good luck
I removed a 3" BL a little while back. Mine did have the steering shaft blocks. You cant really miss them...just look under the steering shaft and if you see a little block you'll know you need to remove it. If the shaft is bolted directly to the frame you're good to go. Also, dont forget about the fuel neck. With a 3" lift you should have an extension on the fuel neck. I had to remove that in order to get it to work.
With the steering shaft lift there is not always a block. At least one comes with a taller steering shaft bearing bracket. Hard to tell but i can get you a measurement on the stock one.
Crown kit i just used and M.O.R.E. 1” BL Install went smooth but for the transfer case shift bracket mounted on the underbody was a bitch to remove Gonna order a Novak cable shifter and toss the factory parts.
ATCKIP
Member
I
I got a chance to look today. I found the block under the steering joint. There doesn't seem to be any extension to the linkage. The transfer case bracket is visable. What about the shifter gear at the boot. Has the shifter been extended?I just removed the whole z bracket, removed the drop plate and then out it back in.
On the transfer case bracket, that black bracket is the extension plate. That’s what needs to be removed. I just removed the whole z bracket, which is the silver bracket that attaches to the body. Then I removed the extension and then bolted it back in. Kind of a pain.
The shifter looks extended but hard to say. What’s worse case shifter will be a little tall. That’s acceptable
ATCKIP
Member
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