Additional Mods With Zone 4.25" Combo Lift?

[D M]

Thank you for clearing that up and the thread links. Is the correction about the control arms referring to your previous response talking about if if I was going to do a SYE/ DC CV Driveshaft?

Yes, if you are going to go with a SYE DC CV driveshaft then you need adjustable upper and lowers for the rear

 

[ErikOffroad]

I don’t believe you need a sye with it being a lj. And I didn’t have to lower my skid when I did mine. The combo lift eliminated that need. The reason most lifts have t case drops is because they need to correct the rear drive shaft angle for the lift. The zone kit instead of lowering the skid to lower the back of the drive line a inch, it raises the engine an inch to accommodate the drive line angles needed for the lift kit.

 

[LukesfirstJeep]

DylanM345 said:
he doesnt need to drop the tcase since he has an LJ. They are vibe free up to 4-4.5" of suspension lift due to the longer driveshaft. Correction- You need upper AND lower adjustable control arms

Thank you for clearing that up and the thread links. Is the correction about the control arms referring to your previous response talking about if if I was going to do a SYE/ DC CV Driveshaft?

On my LJ, I had no vibration with transfer case spacers until I regeared. Rear adjustable upper control arms mostly eliminated the vibration. When I switched to a SYE, I removed the transfer case spacers. The spacers were included with my Zone lift kit.

Just to clarify, I used a Zone 3" spring lift and not the 4.25" combo lift (suspension and body).

 

[greyghost_lj]

No problem bud. The only thing else that I left out is I purchased this spring compressor kit off Amazon. Definitely made the install way smoother. I don’t think I paid much money for it.
Also the kit comes with a spacer for the transfer case linkage. I didn’t install it. I instead put in a savvy shift cable because I did a tummy tuck later and decided to get it out of the way.
One last thing the kit came with a bracket to relocate the steering shaft. The directions where a little hard to decipher on this one point. I do have it installed . If you need a picture of it I can take one later.
Some people in the forum told me I didn’t even need to install it and told me to just throw it away but I did end up installing it anyway.

View attachment 221626

Awesome. Y'all put me in the right direction now I just need to SAVE my money for the upgrades instead of buying Taco Bell all the time hahaha

 

[greyghost_lj]

Yes, if you are going to go with a SYE DC CV driveshaft then you need adjustable upper and lowers for the rear

Awesome thank you

 

[greyghost_lj]

I don’t believe you need a sye with it being a lj. And I didn’t have to lower my skid when I did mine. The combo lift eliminated that need. The reason most lifts have t case drops is because they need to correct the rear drive shaft angle for the lift. The zone kit instead of lowering the skid to lower the back of the drive line a inch, it raises the engine an inch to accommodate the drive line angles needed for the lift kit.

Ahhh okay that makes sense. Pretty smart of Zone. Thank you

 

[greyghost_lj]

On my LJ, I had no vibration with transfer case spacers until I regeared. Rear adjustable upper control arms mostly eliminated the vibration. When I switched to a SYE, I removed the transfer case spacers. The spacers were included with my Zone lift kit.

Just to clarify, I used a Zone 3" spring lift and not the 4.25" combo lift (suspension and body).

Hmm okay. Now that I think about it I think the last owner put a small body lift on but I'm not sure. I'll have to check. In that case it might be cheaper for me to just buy the rest of the components of the combo lift separately. Thanks for chiming in

 

[greyghost_lj]

Okay guys I think I decided I'm going to regear to 5.13s first before any of the other mods like the lift and 33s. The 3.73 gears are pretty dog right now and I do a lot of highway driving between college and home. Doing this should also save me gas mileage because the 4.0 won't have to work so hard right? Currently averaging about 12. The regear would prepare me for when I pull the trigger on the lift, tires, and the rest of the mods too. What do y'all think?

 

[D M]

Okay guys I think I decided I'm going to regear to 5.13s first before any of the other mods like the lift and 33s. The 3.73 gears are pretty dog right now and I do a lot of highway driving between college and home. Doing this should also save me gas mileage because the 4.0 won't have to work so hard right? Currently averaging about 12. The regear would prepare me for when I pull the trigger on the lift, tires, and the rest of the mods too. What do y'all think?

I think you will lose some mileage or stay the same being over-geared, but FWIW it is better to be overgeared than undergeared IMO, what tire size were you running again?

Edit: 32"s, I would definetly go with the re-gear first then if its gonna be mainly driven on street in the mean time, it will be so much better all round being correctly re-geared

 

[greyghost_lj]

I think you will lose some mileage or stay the same being over-geared, but FWIW it is better to be overgeared than undergeared IMO, what tire size were you running again?

Edit: 32"s, I would definetly go with the re-gear first then if its gonna be mainly driven on street in the mean time, it will be so much better all round being correctly re-geared

With my 32"s, 5.13 would be optimal still? Or would it be overgeared until I get 33s put on?

 

[D M]

With my 32"s, 5.13 would be optimal still? Or would it be overgeared until I get 33s put on?

You should be fine, it is better to be slightly overgeared than slightly undergeared.

 

[greyghost_lj]

You should be fine, it is better to be slightly overgeared than slightly undergeared.

Cool. Thank you for all the help

 

[D M]

Cool. Thank you for all the help

No problem