Any tips for motor mount replacement?
- Thread starter Vtx531
- Start date
I found the easiest way was to remove the mount and the bracket at once. Especially on the drivers side.
On the driver side the bolt is ass backwards and hits the a/c compressor. Took me 1/2 hour per side if that.
There are 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the block. don't overtighten them.
On the driver side the bolt is ass backwards and hits the a/c compressor. Took me 1/2 hour per side if that.
There are 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the block. don't overtighten them.
Unbolting the brackets worries me with rust and corrosion we have here.
Is it possible to replacement the mounts without removing the engine brackets?
to do it without removing the mounts, take a wizz wheel or sawzaw and cut the head off the driver sidebolt. Then pull it out the back side.
Passenger side is no problem.
Get new bolts and throw some antisieze on them.
Make sure you don't over tighten the bolts
Passenger side is no problem.
Get new bolts and throw some antisieze on them.
Make sure you don't over tighten the bolts
Loosen the trans mount nuts under the skid plate before loosening the mounts.
If you can’t remove the bracket then either cut the bolt and get a new one or unbolt the ac compressor.
Make sure that when you put the drivers side bolt back in you reverse its direction so you don't have problems the next time.
How so? I wasn’t aware I needed to do that.
Sounds like maybe I am unnecessarily worried about the bracket bolts into the block breaking and nobody has that problem.
Sounds like maybe I am unnecessarily worried about the bracket bolts into the block breaking and nobody has that problem.
The general procedure, which I think is in the FSM, is to do one side at a time. Loosen the through bolt first. Then raise the engine by lifting at the transmission bell housing (that's why you want the transmission mount nuts loose) until the bolt comes free. It's nice to have someone to work the jack while you pull the bolt, but not absolutely necessary. Then remove the top and bottom bolts from the motor mount and pull it out. Do it all in reverse to put the new mount in and torque to spec. Then do the other side.
Also make sure to do one side at a time. Not doing this can leave you in a world of hurt, trust me!
If you unbolt both engine mounts and remove them at the same time, you might have a hell of a time getting things aligned again when reinstalling.
If you unbolt both engine mounts and remove them at the same time, you might have a hell of a time getting things aligned again when reinstalling.
If there is a lot of rust you may have a problem. The bracket to block bolts are short and not real tight, i believe 40 ft lbs.
You should be able to crack them loose with a 3/8 ratchet. If not leave them alone. Busting one in the block would suck.
And replace one side at a time.
X2, absolutely do just one side at a time. What helped me the most was to use a piece of 2x4 placed between two of the bolts holding the engine pan on and a floor jack to support and adjust the height of the engine.
Yes, I did mine the same way.
I know someone who made the mistake of removing both mounts at once, and let's just say that getting the engine aligned was a serious PITA.
Good info, thank you.
Im not really sure if I even need to do this job but I did the transmission mount a couple months ago so I figured I should do all three to have them matching.
My Jeep has the slightest little bit of a vibration or rough idle when stopped with the 3speed auto transmission in drive. Hoping this fixes it.
Im not really sure if I even need to do this job but I did the transmission mount a couple months ago so I figured I should do all three to have them matching.
My Jeep has the slightest little bit of a vibration or rough idle when stopped with the 3speed auto transmission in drive. Hoping this fixes it.
Ive got all new Pioneer engine/tranny mounts from Napa on mine. No vibes at idle, even with the AC on.
This was my plan. I’m still having trouble seeing why the transmission mount bolt need to be lossenedmin order to support or jack up the engine a couple sixteenths of an inch so I must be missing something here.
No mml. Just stock replacements. Anchor brand. Probably should have went with mopar but oh well.
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