I don't want to screw up his thread with crap spilling out of the politics forum. We can continue there if you feel like chatting some more
A lesson learnedākeep it light and nimble!
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
OP
You said it...not me!I will read up shortly.
And if by "spirited" you mean drive like an asshole teenager who pretends his Jeep is a race car, then yes
OP
I'm feeling a bit like a Moth drawn to a bug zapper. However, I'm resisting 33s (the light), so far. Interestingly enough, the challenge came from my wife. She said you can build it however you like, as long as I don't have to climb into it. That meant a 31" tire was the limit.
After reading the thread you linked and a post work beer, I just placed my order. If my wife finds out, I'm telling her you made me do it
OP
I have not. It's one of the things on my list, but I haven't put then Jeep on the road yet. If possible, I'd like to get a portable scale to weigh each corner, but everything I've seen is expensive.
MaritimeTJ
Member
I think you'd be pretty happy with 33s as well. If you kept the wheel and tire weight low with 33's especially. I daily drove my 2006 6spd 3.73 for years on 31s, switched to 33's and it didn't really hinder the drivability much. I drove it on the scale last summer and it was 3650lbs with a tank of fuel in it. Basically stock weight plus bigger tires and some lightly upgraded suspension bits.
If you are running an auto you may want to go with deeper gears than the 4.10s but you probably are already aware of that.
If you are running an auto you may want to go with deeper gears than the 4.10s but you probably are already aware of that.
Having done a set of bases for my rig, that is a bigger pain than I expected.
Tldelaney
TJ Enthusiast
Have you checked the metal on the steering column under the panel for rust? I need to tackle what you mentioned in my tj plus that as well.
Add me to the list of guys who painted their seat bases, expecting an easy job, that most certainly is not.
They turned out okay though so I'm happy about that. I also learned that little plastic fold up flap pops right off of the spring flipper if you are careful.
OP
The disassembly, rust treating, and painting of the various base parts was relatively simple. The reassembly was another story. Reattaching the seat to the base was a challenge, to say the least. I spent about 4 hours total on one seat!
Just a seat base, how hard can it be, right? I've got 4 hours just making the adapters for those and they are the easy ones.
Go 35s, Iāll buy a step stool for her.
Yeah, more than once, I thought to myself, I did not take enough pictures! I had the seat entirely pulled apart to clean the covers, replace the foam, and install heaters.
The frame looks so simple...
OP
This was the first time I've ever completely disassembled a seat. Frankly, once it was all apart, I was surprised how many different parts there were. I started with a picture of the rusted frame, but quickly stopped taking pictures, because the job became much bigger than I expected. At that point, I needed to at least get one done, so I could move the vehicle. Sitting on a 5 gallon bucket just doesn't work well for me!
OP
I already have several around the house for her. Getting another one will only get me in more trouble!
OP
Had a couple hours yesterday, so I started the lockout hub conversion. Although I run the larger 5 on 5.5 hubs on my LJ, I settled on the smaller 5 on 4.5 Yukon YA WU-07 kit for this project. I did have some concerns about strength initially, but after talking to the reps, two people I know running it, and seeing @mrblaine comments, I'm very comfortable with the re-design of the hub, using metal components.
I know this has been covered, but I'll capture some portions of the install in my thread here. In terms of packaging, everything needed to do the job is included, with one exception. The kit comes with 4340 outer axle stub shafts, but requires you to re-use your inners. Since it didn't make sense, to me, to do the install with stock axles, I purchased a set of 4340 inners.
The first part of the install involves the dirty part, i.e. removing the brakes, hubs bearings, and stock axle shafts. Once that's done, this is the time to remove all the years of rust, grease, and dirt. To wrap this part up, treat the rust, apply primer, then paint.
I know this has been covered, but I'll capture some portions of the install in my thread here. In terms of packaging, everything needed to do the job is included, with one exception. The kit comes with 4340 outer axle stub shafts, but requires you to re-use your inners. Since it didn't make sense, to me, to do the install with stock axles, I purchased a set of 4340 inners.
The first part of the install involves the dirty part, i.e. removing the brakes, hubs bearings, and stock axle shafts. Once that's done, this is the time to remove all the years of rust, grease, and dirt. To wrap this part up, treat the rust, apply primer, then paint.
You oughta weld up them divots in the knuckles where the brake pads ride.