A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

I’ve seen blaine talk about this with the savvy bumper but I’m not sure an aluminum bumper is the best choice if you want to carry a basket. The cyclical loading from the bouncing stresses the aluminum in a way that causes it to break over time. The tow hitch in those aluminum bumpers is meant for straight pulls.
The bumper he is considering is not just aluminum. It’s steel with aluminum skin so that’s why it’s different. The cyclic vibration issue applies to all aluminum bumpers but if you check UCF you’ll see the hitch and sub structure is all steel.
 
The bumper he is considering is not just aluminum. It’s steel with aluminum skin so that’s why it’s different. The cyclic vibration issue applies to all aluminum bumpers but if you check UCF you’ll see the hitch and sub structure is all steel.
Ah didn’t see it had a steel hitch!
 
The bumper he is considering is not just aluminum. It’s steel with aluminum skin so that’s why it’s different. The cyclic vibration issue applies to all aluminum bumpers but if you check UCF you’ll see the hitch and sub structure is all steel.
Ah didn’t see it had a steel hitch!
One major downside to the UCF hybrid bumper is how far out the receiver sticks. The Savvy bumper only extends around 5.25". The UCF is approximately 6.75". I have the UCF bumper on my LJ and have drug the receiver on 35" tires. I'm betting the problem would be worse on 31" tires. I'm also trying to optimize the approach and departure angles, so that's likely going to drive me in the direction of Savvy. It's a mental ping pong game, but at least the ball is moving slower!
 
One major downside to the UCF hybrid bumper is how far out the receiver sticks. The Savvy bumper only extends around 5.25". The UCF is approximately 6.75". I have the UCF bumper on my LJ and have drug the receiver on 35" tires, so I'm betting the problem would be worse on 31" tires. I'm also trying to optimize the approach and departure angles, so that's likely going to drive me in the direction of Savvy. It's a mental ping pong game, but at least the ball is moving slower!
I guess the question is whether dragging the receiver would actually get you stuck or just scratch it a little bit. I drag mine all the time but have never gotten stuck on it
 
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Focused time now continues to be a problem, so I'm working simple and small jobs (backwards from the way I usually work). Went to my go-to for stereo stuff, Crutchfield, and ordered a new receiver and XM tuner.
ZItReo4.jpg


I don't like spacers, so I used a 4" cutting wheel to modify the speaker pod for a new set of 6.5" speakers that have been waiting for a home. These aren't the best speakers, but they have a very good sound and can handle an amplifier upgrade later on.
YfZRg0W.jpg

PlIomOb.jpg


The new stereo had tunable lights, so I did so to match the LED upgrade I did on all the dash lights.
kgMgyED.jpg


While I was in there I also replaced the busted center and outer vents.
4p33pEK.jpg
 
Chipping away at piecing together the suspension and steering. ZJ steering conversion parts arrived and these were ordered:

Got a small (5%) discount and free shipping, so I ordered the Currie CE-9120TJS Trac Bar from here
https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/rockj...front-trac-bar-ce-9120tjs/_/R-HWSH-CE-9120TJS

That will be mated on the axle side with Blaine's upgraded flag bolt. I could have just picked up a Grade 8 bolt and nut locally, but having installed an upgraded regular nut before, the flag nut is woth the price of admission!
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...SS-Bolt-HD-FLAG-NUT-SS-BOLT.htm?categoryId=-1
 
After over studying the spring choice, I committed to a set of H&R 52107 Sport Springs. Absent real data on the H&R springs, because H&R won't tell you their free length or spring rates, the decision was made for primarily three reasons:

1. Having installed them twice, I know they're well made and will yield 1' - 1.5 ", depending on sprung weight
2. I looked at the next best choice for my use, i.e. OME 2933 & 2941. These are close enough in free length to the 3" Nth Degree springs I have that when combined with the Savvy 1.25" BL, I'll end up with too much space between the tire and flare, with a 31" tire.
3. Price. A set of four was $238 delivered next day, from Tire Rack

Money saved when ordering the H&R springs allowed me to buy the following, for roughly the delta amount I would have spent on OME springs:

- New front and rear spring insulators
- New front and rear jounce bumpers
- New "Made in USA" CNC Machined 1" front and rear coil spring spacers

The later will be used to "tune" the ride height. If I only need two, the others will be donated to a lifelong friend. Once I get the ride height set, I'll measure and make my shock choice. This way I should be able to get the exact amount of up and down travel I'll want.
 
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I'm watching this build with great interest because I'm about to build pretty much the same thing you've described. I'm not a fan of the tubular rear bumpers like you're looking at, but I'm planning on going with a poison spyder rear bumper and a jcr front, it's pretty much just an aesthetic thing. Post pics once you get the springs installed and keep us updated 👍🏼
 
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Ordered the H&R springs Wednesday from Tire Rack, because they had the best price ($238) and free shipping. They showed up at my door 1 day later and were extremely well packaged. Kudos to tire rack for excellent customer service!

OC5gUbu.jpg


I made the mistake of not measuring the previous set I had, and H&R will not tell you, so let's talk numbers. FWIW, the only thing H&R will tell you is that the springs are Progressive.

Front = .565" thick & 16 3/8" tall
BZ1ccZm.jpg

CCR6H1d.jpg


Rear = .605" thick & 12 5/8" tall
PO5y2rD.jpg

Hh0c97g.jpg


Based on what I could find, here's how the free lengths compare:

Stock Front = 17"
H&R Front = 16 3/8"

Stock Rear = 11 3/4"
H&R Rear = 12 5/8"

It will be interesting to get the ride height measurements!
 
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Ordered the H&R springs Wednesday from Tire Rack, because they had the best price ($238) and free shipping. They showed up at my door 1 day later and were extremely well packaged. Kudos to tire rack for excellent customer service!

View attachment 223758

I made the mistake of not measuring the previous set I had, and H&R will not tell you, so let's talk numbers. FWIW, the only thing H&R will tell you is that the springs are Progressive.

Front = .565" thick & 16 3/8" tall
View attachment 223759
View attachment 223760

Rear = .605" thick & 12 5/8" tall
View attachment 223761
View attachment 223762

Based on what I could find, here's how the free lengths compare:

Stock Front = 17"
H&R Front = 16 3/8"

Stock Rear = 11 3/4"
H&R Rear = 12 5/8"

It will be interesting to get the ride height measurements!
It's interesting that the stock ones are longer than the h&r, now I really want to see how this turns out lol. I'm assuming you're gonna put a spacer on it, I forgot if you've said that already. I do like that the springs are blue, that should appease the mall crawler crowd on my blue jeep 😂 just have to find some of the disco rock lights and I'll blend right in
 
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I believe this is due to the much higher rate of the H&R springs.

Installing springs and establishing ride height with your bumpers and accessories before shocks is wise. (y)
 
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After over studying the spring choice, I committed to a set of H&R 52107 Sport Springs. Absent real data on the H&R springs, because H&R won't tell you their free length or spring rates, the decision was made for primarily three reasons:

1. Having installed them twice, I know they're well made and will yield 1' - 1.5 ", depending on sprung weight
2. I looked at the next best choice for my use, i.e. OME 2933 & 2941. These are close enough in free length to the 3" Nth Degree springs I have that when combined with the Savvy 1.25" BL, I'll end up with too much space between the tire and flare, with a 31" tire.
3. Price. A set of four was $238 delivered next day, from Tire Rack

Money saved when ordering the H&R springs allowed me to buy the following, for roughly the delta amount I would have spent on OME springs:

- New front and rear spring insulators
- New front and rear jounce bumpers
- New "Made in USA" CNC Machined 1" front and rear coil spring spacers

The later will be used to "tune" the ride height. If I only need two, the others will be donated to a lifelong friend. Once I get the ride height set, I'll measure and make my shock choice. This way I should be able to get the exact amount of up and down travel I'll want.
Can you share some details on where you got the "made in USA" coil spacers?
 
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