No offense, but it's obvious you don't know what you're doing. You stated that you're going to lose your job if it's not fixed. Why are you still messing around with it? Call a mechanic and have it towed to his shop to be repaired. I have no idea what's wrong with your jeep either but I do know how to prevent you from losing your job as well.
My daily driver TJ won’t start
- Thread starter medicnole
- Start date
I hate to keep going back to this, but the initial voltage seems too low and the voltage drop is too much.
I still think your battery might have a bad cell (even if new) or there is a bad ground somewhere.
Have you tried to jump it from a running vehicle?
I would check you battery cables, verify they are tight and free of corrosion.
Inspect wear the negative cable grounds to the chassis. also check your engine ground strap.
Next you need to test your battery cables themselves. Trying to explain it might be difficult, so here is a link.
How to Check Resistance in Battery Cables (itstillruns.com)
I listened to your video.
You definitely have some sort of electrical issue going on. whether it be excessive resistance in a ground circuit or dropping voltage.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing looking at that rusted out capacitor that fell off the engine block.
No offence to the OP but that thing looks like it's been parked in the ocean for a while.
Thank you I actually did replace my battery cables with someone's that I had lying around but I will check them I know that they have good continuity cuz I did check that. and thank you very much for letting me know that you couldn't comment on the YouTube video. It's only the second one I've ever posted but I went in and changed it. Thanks again
Here is another thing I noticed which has me puzzled and everyone mentioning the voltage levels. If you notice in the video when I put the key in the on position the battery gauge only goes up a little over 9 volts even though both batteries I've had in it one being brand new and one that I had charged fully it did the same thing doesn't seem like it's getting enough voltage and when I check the 5 volt reference funny ASD relay it's only reading about 2.6
funny that you mention that because yes I've noticed quite a bit of rust and since it hasn't been running for the past month I've been in the process of trying to grind it all off and paint it to protect it I will go back around and focus on where the grounds are connected and try to make sure that I have clean metal-to-metal contact
You need to recheck your ground circuits. Go to the resources on the forum and go to the service manual section.
2006 service manual, section 8w is wiring, go to the schematics section, and go to ground schematics 8w-91
You want to look at pages 8w-91-16, ground cable g105, 8w-91-17 ground cable g107 and g108, 8w-91-20 ground cable g106
set up a multi meter to ohms. black lead to a good clean ground. now take the red lead and touch it to the eyelet of each individual ground g105, g106, g107, g108. do not touch the bolt/nut or stud.
you should be reading less than 5 ohms in each. If you are reading more than say 10 ohms, you have a problem with that particular ground connection. Clean it up and retest.
Make sure you test with the key off, doors closed, nothing on. or better yet, disconnect the battery
Note*** this is just testing the ground connection and not the circuit itself.
Inspect each of the ground circuits for corrosion starting at the eyelets and go back about 12 inches. you may have to remove wire loom. Look for a brake or swelling in the insulation.
Set you multi meter to voltage, what are you reading across the battery itself? 12+ volts
Now have someone attempt to crank the jeep over, what does the voltage drop down to?
Next disconnect the battery, remove the under hood fuse box and inspect the connectors for any signs of corrosion.
If you are not comfortable with circuit testing or doing voltage drop tests, find a local shop that specializes in electrical diagnostics.
2006 service manual, section 8w is wiring, go to the schematics section, and go to ground schematics 8w-91
You want to look at pages 8w-91-16, ground cable g105, 8w-91-17 ground cable g107 and g108, 8w-91-20 ground cable g106
set up a multi meter to ohms. black lead to a good clean ground. now take the red lead and touch it to the eyelet of each individual ground g105, g106, g107, g108. do not touch the bolt/nut or stud.
you should be reading less than 5 ohms in each. If you are reading more than say 10 ohms, you have a problem with that particular ground connection. Clean it up and retest.
Make sure you test with the key off, doors closed, nothing on. or better yet, disconnect the battery
Note*** this is just testing the ground connection and not the circuit itself.
Inspect each of the ground circuits for corrosion starting at the eyelets and go back about 12 inches. you may have to remove wire loom. Look for a brake or swelling in the insulation.
Set you multi meter to voltage, what are you reading across the battery itself? 12+ volts
Now have someone attempt to crank the jeep over, what does the voltage drop down to?
Next disconnect the battery, remove the under hood fuse box and inspect the connectors for any signs of corrosion.
If you are not comfortable with circuit testing or doing voltage drop tests, find a local shop that specializes in electrical diagnostics.
Last edited:
MrMark52
TJ Enthusiast
FWIW - not sure where the OP is located, but I just recently had an experience with my ‘03 4.0l where it wouldn’t start or almost try to start. Right now in Dallas it just topped 33 degrees for the first time in many days.
It acted like it was starved for fuel. Complete fuel pump and regulator was replaced with OEM last June.
But recent weirdness of temperature readings, and with advice from members of this board - told me to replace the non-OEM temp sensor with the OEM sensor.
Ordered sensor from Amazon, got it, replaced it (10 minutes) - Got in the Jeep, turned the key - cranked right up.
Look at your temp gauge. If the engine is cold, but the temp gauge is giving you any reading what-so-ever, replace the temp sensor. Sadly - I’m not sure if you can just disconnect the sensor to test. I doubt it.
It acted like it was starved for fuel. Complete fuel pump and regulator was replaced with OEM last June.
But recent weirdness of temperature readings, and with advice from members of this board - told me to replace the non-OEM temp sensor with the OEM sensor.
Ordered sensor from Amazon, got it, replaced it (10 minutes) - Got in the Jeep, turned the key - cranked right up.
Look at your temp gauge. If the engine is cold, but the temp gauge is giving you any reading what-so-ever, replace the temp sensor. Sadly - I’m not sure if you can just disconnect the sensor to test. I doubt it.
four angry squirrels
New Member
THIS. When my jeep wasn't starting I searched the forums for everything solution and starting packing the online cart with all sorts of parts. When I opened up and tested each fuse first is where I found my problem, a single burnt fuse that didn't look obviously burnt but costs less then $1 was all I needed to get it going. Secondly was to find out why this happened so it doesn't do it again.
Omg, almost 2 months without my daily driver and have tried every fix that I could think of under the sun and that has been suggested. I'm pretty sure I have it narrowed down to a short to ground either going to or coming from the ASD fuse because the ASD fuse keeps blowing every time I put the ignition in the run position. So my question is does anyone know which circuits are responsible for allowing the ASD fuse to switch on? My ASD relay has stopped the fast clicking and now the fuse is blowing instead. I read somewhere that when the ASD relay clicks fast like that it is because it's not getting enough voltage? Does anyone know if that is true or not and if it is how do I find why it's not getting enough voltage?
So you are blowing the #9 (20 amp) fuse in the underhood fuse block when ever you turn the key to the run position?
If you remove the ASD relay and turn the key to the run position, does it still blow the fuse?
The service manuals are located in the "Jeep Resources" section of the forum here.
2006 service manual, section 8W for wiring schematics.
Exactly which fuse # and in what location is blowing? Inside the PDC? 2006 model right? Fuse # 9 or perhaps #22, both inside the PDC?
No, when I pull the ASD relay the fuse does not blow. And I have looked in the wiring schematics section that you spoke of and have not been able to trace a short. I would like to know there's two wires coming from the ASD fuse that are the same color one going to the ASD relay and the other one going I believe back to the ignition switch but I don't know what circuits are on that wire or how I could find a short in that wire
Ok that makes it easier to troubleshoot, I made this copy earlier today for this. Either the wiring is shorted to ground somewhere between the bottom of fuse #9 below and the PCM, or the PCM is shorted internally at where its ASD Relay Output connectors connect to.
Unplug the ASD relay and see if fuse #9 blows when you turn the ignition switch on. If the fuse still blows the short to ground (like from a chaffed wire) is somewhere along the red-yellow wire between the fuse and ASD relay socket.
If it doesn't blow when the ASD relay is out but it does when the relay is plugged in, perhaps the ASD relay is blown inside. Swap the ASD relay with a different relay, like the fog light or horn relay which are the same relay design. If that doesn't stop the fuse from blowing, the short is either somewhere along the brown wire between the ASD socket and the PCM connection, or inside the PCM itself.
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