What is the OPDA and do I need to change mine?

Tom Andersen said:
I am interested in the shim fix you mentioned. I have this exact issue and would like to ask where you place the shim under the cps.

Thanks, Tom
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Hi Tom, I haven't been around in a while and just saw this post after someone PM'ed me about something else. I will answer the best I can. Below is another post where I describe it. I don't have any pics, but It is essentially a VERY thin aluminum foil shim (washer shaped like an O with thickness ~0.001-.003"). I wish I had a pic of the shim I used, but once it worked there was no way I was taking it out! It is still going strong today and I have never had the issue again to this day (knocks on wood).

I'd recommend very thin household foil and try one-ply to start. You may have to find thinner foil. The shim washer goes around the sensor shaft and then keeps the sensor from sliding as far into the housing as you tighten it down, but just barely. It will make the most sense if you pull the sensor out and examine how pushing it into the housing gets it closer to the tone wheel. If the OPDA shaft wobbles under extreme conditions due to slight wear tolerances (and poor design IMO), the shim pulls the hall sensor every so slightly away from the tone wheel to accommodate. If the tone wheel gets too close whist spinning, it can cause the signal to be lost (and thus the code will be thrown). However, if you have too much shim, then it will run like crap when pulled too far into the housing and away from the tone wheel. This also causes the signal to be lost, and it will run even worse than the initial symptoms most likely. Shut off and go thinner with the shim. These are very small tolerances. It took me a few times of trial and error on a cold night where I could replicate at will after letting it cool for a bit.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-do-you-test-for-a-pcm-going-bad.22516/#post-364721
Hope everyone here is doing OK after the crazy year we had. Hopefully I'll be back on the site more once work and some family things calm down.
 
mots said:
Hi Tom, I haven't been around in a while and just saw this post after someone PM'ed me about something else. I will answer the best I can. Below is another post where I describe it. I don't have any pics, but It is essentially a VERY thin aluminum foil shim (washer shaped like an O with thickness ~0.001-.003"). I wish I had a pic of the shim I used, but once it worked there was no way I was taking it out! It is still going strong today and I have never had the issue again to this day (knocks on wood).

I'd recommend very thin household foil and try one-ply to start. You may have to find thinner foil. The shim washer goes around the sensor shaft and then keeps the sensor from sliding as far into the housing as you tighten it down, but just barely. It will make the most sense if you pull the sensor out and examine how pushing it into the housing gets it closer to the tone wheel. If the OPDA shaft wobbles under extreme conditions due to slight wear tolerances (and poor design IMO), the shim pulls the hall sensor every so slightly away from the tone wheel to accommodate. If the tone wheel gets too close whist spinning, it can cause the signal to be lost (and thus the code will be thrown). However, if you have too much shim, then it will run like crap when pulled too far into the housing and away from the tone wheel. This also causes the signal to be lost, and it will run even worse than the initial symptoms most likely. Shut off and go thinner with the shim. These are very small tolerances. It took me a few times of trial and error on a cold night where I could replicate at will after letting it cool for a bit.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-do-you-test-for-a-pcm-going-bad.22516/#post-364721
Hope everyone here is doing OK after the crazy year we had. Hopefully I'll be back on the site more once work and some family things calm down.
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Thanks for the reply.

Tom
 
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@Chris Making my list of maintenance todo's and am wondering how important is replacing the OPDA with a crown? The build date is 7/2004, does that change anything, or is it best to just go ahead and do it? I see the date of the recall was 10/2004 to sometime in 2005. I'm assuming I am clear of it then correct?

Rear main seal/oil pan seal will be replaced by my regular shop this week
I have the spark plugs in my amazon cart awaiting some company.

Do you have a sticky somewhere with regular maintenance intervals? I know this is listed in the Service Manual somewhere, but your write-ups have spoiled all of us and raised the bar extensively.....
 
LJtheunicorn said:
@Chris Making my list of maintenance todo's and am wondering how important is replacing the OPDA with a crown? The build date is 7/2004, does that change anything, or is it best to just go ahead and do it? I see the date of the recall was 10/2004 to sometime in 2005. I'm assuming I am clear of it then correct?

Rear main seal/oil pan seal will be replaced by my regular shop this week
I have the spark plugs in my amazon cart awaiting some company.

Do you have a sticky somewhere with regular maintenance intervals? I know this is listed in the Service Manual somewhere, but your write-ups have spoiled all of us and raised the bar extensively.....
Click to expand...

If it's not making noise I see no reason to do it.

Take it out, inspect it, and if the gear looks fine, leave it be. That's all I would do.

Service manuals with maintenance intervals are here:
Jeep Wrangler TJ Factory Service Manuals (FSM) & Technical Documentation

If you have no record of the cooling system ever being changed, I would overhaul it regardless of the mileage. For that, see this thread: Jeep Wrangler TJ Cooling System Overhaul FAQ

In addition, O2 sensors are a general wear-and-tear maintenance item and I would encourage you to replace all of them every 80k miles or so. See this thread here: The Official Jeep Wrangler TJ Oxygen (O2) Sensor Thread

Aside from those things, I would inspect and change u-joints if you don't know when they were last done, as well as change all the fluids.
 
Chris said:
If it's not making noise I see no reason to do it.

Take it out, inspect it, and if the gear looks fine, leave it be. That's all I would do.

Service manuals with maintenance intervals are here:
Jeep Wrangler TJ Factory Service Manuals (FSM) & Technical Documentation

If you have no record of the cooling system ever being changed, I would overhaul it regardless of the mileage. For that, see this thread: Jeep Wrangler TJ Cooling System Overhaul FAQ

In addition, O2 sensors are a general wear-and-tear maintenance item and I would encourage you to replace all of them every 80k miles or so. See this thread here: The Official Jeep Wrangler TJ Oxygen (O2) Sensor Thread

Aside from those things, I would inspect and change u-joints if you don't know when they were last done, as well as change all the fluids.
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The previous owner replaced multiple u-joints (he told me this but they're also very shiny and I can tell was recent service)

I'll pull out the OPDA and check it when I'm in there doing plugs.

I'll follow on to those links, thanks for the super quick response!
I am planning to do the Derale Trans cooler at some point as well
 
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LJtheunicorn said:
The previous owner replaced multiple u-joints (he told me this but they're also very shiny and I can tell was recent service)

I'll pull out the OPDA and check it when I'm in there doing plugs.

I'll follow on to those links, thanks for the super quick response!
I am planning to do the Derale Trans cooler at some point as well
Click to expand...

A transmission cooler is a wise idea if you have an automatic and particularly if you live in a hotter climate like we do.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention the spark plugs as well, that's a must.

No problem on the response. Kids are finally in bed so I have a bit of free time.
 
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Chris said:
A transmission cooler is a wise idea if you have an automatic and particularly if you live in a hotter climate like we do.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention the spark plugs as well, that's a must.

No problem on the response. Kids are finally in bed so I have a bit of free time.
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Haha no kids here yet, my wife has actually sat and watched many how-to Jeeo maintenance videos tonight so I am running with it and planning all of my maintenance fun!

Reading through coolant system cleanse FAQ right now
 
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@Chris does the 04 OPDA look different? Was the issue due to a redesign? I came outside this morning and looking at mine it doesn’t look anything like the ones I saw in videos last night.

image.jpg
 
LJtheunicorn said:
@Chris does the 04 OPDA look different? Was the issue due to a redesign? I came outside this morning and looking at mine it doesn’t look anything like the ones I saw in videos last night.

View attachment 224333
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The 04 doesn’t have an OPDA, it has a camshaft synchronizer. This thread only applies to 2005-2006 TJs with OPDAs.
 
Chris said:
One of the most common issues with the 4.0 engine in the later model Wrangler TJs is the OPDA (oil pump drive assembly). The factory OPDA is designed with two oil impregnated bronze bushings separated by an oil seal. The upper bushing is cut off from lubrication by that seal, resulting in premature failure. Over time, radial movement develops in the shaft. Eventually, the complete assembly and camshaft will fail.

Jeep / Chrysler is well aware of the OPDA issue with these cars as they issued the E05 recall for some of the 2005 model 4.0 engines due to premature oil pump drive gear wear. This recall involved engines that were built between 10/20/2004 and 02/01/2005. However, don't be fooled by the recall dates as there are many owners of 2006 models (and even the years prior to 2005) that have experienced OPDA issues, including complete failure.

A worn oil pump drive assembly will show symptoms, such as a check engine light or a squeaking noise coming from the oil pump drive assembly itself (some people describe the noise as a loud screeching sound or something similar to a laughing barrel of monkeys).

The fact of the matter however is this is no laughing matter. Ignoring a bad OPDA can and will result in catastrophic engine failure which will put you in the hole for thousands of dollars. On the contrary, a replacement OPDA is only a bit more than $100, and it's a very easy thing to change out as well.

If you recently purchased a used Wrangler TJ one of the first things you should think about doing is to change out the OPDA with the redesigned Crown Automotive OPDA, regardless of what year your Wrangler TJ is.

The reengineered Crown OPDA moves the seal above the upper bushings, allowing oil to lubricate it. An oil channel was also added to the shaft to increase overall lubrication to the area.

You can purchase the Crown OPDA here.

The video below perfectly demonstrates step-by-step how to change out the OPDA.

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Is this same part for an ‘05-‘06? That part number says it’s for ‘00-‘04.
 
Chris said:
The part in that link is for a 05-06. I am 110% positive.
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Hmm, maybe the product that link is going to has changed? I rang Crown and asked them about the correct part as I was seeing conflicting information online. They said the part number for the one in the link (53010615AB) is for '00-'04 models. The correct part for '05-'06 is 53010624AC. This is all strange as you're saying, prior to '05 it didn't have an OPDA however the guy at Crown was adamant about the above. I check the part number in my TJ and it seems that it already has the updated part from Crown. Just thought I'd pass not the info I was told for reference. Anyways, the link for the part I've mentioned is below FWIW.

ODPA AMAZON
 
JM_TJ said:
Hmm, maybe the product that link is going to has changed? I rang Crown and asked them about the correct part as I was seeing conflicting information online. They said the part number for the one in the link (53010615AB) is for '00-'04 models. The correct part for '05-'06 is 53010624AC. This is all strange as you're saying, prior to '05 it didn't have an OPDA however the guy at Crown was adamant about the above. I check the part number in my TJ and it seems that it already has the updated part from Crown. Just thought I'd pass not the info I was told for reference. Anyways, the link for the part I've mentioned is below FWIW.

ODPA AMAZON
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I’ll update the original post, thanks for this!
 
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JM_TJ said:
Hmm, maybe the product that link is going to has changed? I rang Crown and asked them about the correct part as I was seeing conflicting information online. They said the part number for the one in the link (53010615AB) is for '00-'04 models. The correct part for '05-'06 is 53010624AC. This is all strange as you're saying, prior to '05 it didn't have an OPDA however the guy at Crown was adamant about the above. I check the part number in my TJ and it seems that it already has the updated part from Crown. Just thought I'd pass not the info I was told for reference. Anyways, the link for the part I've mentioned is below FWIW.

ODPA AMAZON
Click to expand...
Well, the one you linked to is the exact link I used to purchase mine last year - at $68! And its now in my '06...
 
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Anyone know if the Crown OPDA was discontinued? I noticed they're listed on backorder absolutely everywhere and read a comment on ebay about them being discontinued? If they are what's the next best alternative?

This noise is why I'm looking Weird noise heard from cab or exhaust
 
On Amazon Crown 53010624AC is more than a month out for delivery, so I don't think they're actually in stock. The Crown version won't even pull up on RockAuto, but the Dorman is in stock everywhere. I've got the crown on backorder from Summit (says it will ship April 1st, we'll see) and 4wheelparts, but if I can't confirm they're still in production soon, I'll pick up a dorman at O'Rielly's and see if that makes my noise go away. Maybe I should just go ahead and try that now, since the jeep can't sit waiting for a month, hoping one becomes available?
 
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