Are Metalcloak control arms any good?

mrblaine said:
I keep relating this but once upon a time G and the folks at MC got into a pissing contest on FB. G kept telling them that what they were saying wasn't true and he didn't give a shit what his associates used as product on their personal rigs. They kept it up so he finally said fine, fuck it. Here are the pics I've collected of all of your failed joints on practically every rig that comes into the shop over the years. That didn't go well.
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So are the failed joints more of a desert thing? Is heat the problem?
 
Apparition said:
But it is a metric,

And it still goes to the point, I've used every bit of my travel and my joints aren't failing and I'm trying to get to what's the difference between the failures and the non-failures.

Was trying to get it to be a more techy discussion.
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8 lug is stronger than 5 lug. 5 on 5.5" is stronger than 5 on 4.5" bolt circles.
 
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Farmergreg said:
JJ this response is to the group think here and not specifically to you.

There's been a shift to elitism here. Go back and read some of the earlier build threads. Kinder, gentler, not the hate.

You can set your watch to any question comparing MC arms vs Currie. MC will be trashed within a few posts.

It's never enough to say why they like the Currie JJ's without going into a MC bashing fest.

It's like politics, I cant really say what I like about my candidate, but your candidate sucks.
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aint that the truth
 
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smurf said:
Newbie here, what is the advantages of upgrading/replacing your control arms?
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Upgraded control arms offer a few advantages:
-Most are adjustable in length giving the user the benefit of fine-tuning the axle placement and pinion angle
-Generally stronger than the factory arm so they'll take more abuse off road (or at the mall if you're into crawling concrete)
-Often times they come with a joint that can be replaced/ rebuilt easier than the factory Clevite bushing
-Different joint styles/ construction offer advantages over the factory Clevite bushings (range of motion, durability, etc.) I'd suggest you do your homework here as this can be WIDELY contested

For the record, I have MC arms. They've held up well for a few years now. Go ahead and add me to the list.
 
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Wait...I want to play. Here is a scenario. @taylormade73 and I both have issues with our JJ's in the mud. Something about the clay wicking the binder in the Grease and leaving oil to run out and be replaced with water. I have 16 squeaky joints right now that need greased. That is a negative (about the only one I've found) to the JJ.

Now...If I understand how the metalcloak joint works correctly...the angular misalignment comes from the rubber (with KEVLAR!!!) being able to flex, but for rotational motion (such as pure compression of the axle) the joint is free to rotate in the shell...Right? Doesn't that require some sort of grease?

Maybe (blasphemy alert), those of us out east should be using Metalcloak grease on our johnny joints? Or...is this part of the failure of duraflex? No grease in the housing (because they are "maintenance free") causes the rubber joint to bind up and tear? @tworley, how diligently do you grease your joints? @Apparition do you grease yours?

Barring that part of the discussion...I'm seeing guys out east are mostly happy with the metalcloak...maybe I should switch?
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Produced from 1997-2006, many consider the Jeep Wrangler TJ to be the last true Wrangler. I started Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum to serve as a resource for TJ owners around the world. You'll find everyone here to be friendly, and most importantly, drama free (unless it's a Metalcloak vs Savvy / Currie discussion).
 
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