Are Metalcloak control arms any good?

I've had both types of arms and they both performed great. I never tore the MC joints and I'd like to think that I flex my suspension out pretty well. I currently run Savvy control arms with a mid arm on my TJ and have MC arms on the wifes JL.

Produced from 1997-2006, many consider the Jeep Wrangler TJ to be the last true Wrangler. I started Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum to serve as a resource for TJ owners around the world. You'll find everyone here to be friendly, and most importantly, drama free (unless it's a Metalcloak vs Savvy / Currie discussion).
Ain't that the truth. Should we start talking about the slight gain I got with MC fenders vs stock/Genright non-highline.
 
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Wait...I want to play. Here is a scenario. @taylormade73 and I both have issues with our JJ's in the mud. Something about the clay wicking the binder in the Grease and leaving oil to run out and be replaced with water. I have 16 squeaky joints right now that need greased. That is a negative (about the only one I've found) to the JJ.

Now...If I understand how the metalcloak joint works correctly...the angular misalignment comes from the rubber (with KEVLAR!!!) being able to flex, but for rotational motion (such as pure compression of the axle) the joint is free to rotate in the shell...Right? Doesn't that require some sort of grease?

Maybe (blasphemy alert), those of us out east should be using Metalcloak grease on our johnny joints? Or...is this part of the failure of duraflex? No grease in the housing (because they are "maintenance free") causes the rubber joint to bind up and tear? @tworley, how diligently do you grease your joints? @Apparition do you grease yours?

Barring that part of the discussion...I'm seeing guys out east are mostly happy with the metalcloak...maybe I should switch? View attachment 270621
I've never greased a single one of mine. Roughly 3.5 years old and 30k miles.
 
Upgraded control arms offer a few advantages:
-Most are adjustable in length giving the user the benefit of fine-tuning the axle placement and pinion angle
-Generally stronger than the factory arm so they'll take more abuse off road (or at the mall if you're into crawling concrete)
-Often times they come with a joint that can be replaced/ rebuilt easier than the factory Clevite bushing
-Different joint styles/ construction offer advantages over the factory Clevite bushings (range of motion, durability, etc.) I'd suggest you do your homework here as this can be WIDELY contested

For the record, I have MC arms. They've held up well for a few years now. Go ahead and add me to the list.
Good feedback here, thank you for taking the time to reply. Greatly appreciated.
 
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Produced from 1997-2006, many consider the Jeep Wrangler TJ to be the last true Wrangler. I started Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum to serve as a resource for TJ owners around the world. You'll find everyone here to be friendly, and most importantly, drama free (unless it's a Metalcloak vs Savvy / Currie discussion).
This topic may be more volatile than "Which long arms should I run?"
 
Wait...I want to play. Here is a scenario. @taylormade73 and I both have issues with our JJ's in the mud. Something about the clay wicking the binder in the Grease and leaving oil to run out and be replaced with water. I have 16 squeaky joints right now that need greased. That is a negative (about the only one I've found) to the JJ.

Now...If I understand how the metalcloak joint works correctly...the angular misalignment comes from the rubber (with KEVLAR!!!) being able to flex, but for rotational motion (such as pure compression of the axle) the joint is free to rotate in the shell...Right? Doesn't that require some sort of grease?

Maybe (blasphemy alert), those of us out east should be using Metalcloak grease on our johnny joints? Or...is this part of the failure of duraflex? No grease in the housing (because they are "maintenance free") causes the rubber joint to bind up and tear? @tworley, how diligently do you grease your joints? @Apparition do you grease yours?

Barring that part of the discussion...I'm seeing guys out east are mostly happy with the metalcloak...maybe I should switch? View attachment 270621

I thought they had enough grease at 40k. Slapped em back in the barrel and moved on. MC states to lube them every year IIRC.

Earlier this year when I replaced them, there was absolutely no grease and bits of the rubber compound stuck to the barrel.
 
I think you just made a bad comparison, you compared the maintenance of a JJ to replacing a MC joint.
Thats kind of my point, one you can service/replace components the other you have to swap the whole thing. So sure, you can grease the joint housing but that's really the only preventative/maintenance thing you can do on it.
 
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I suspect folks think they know a little about me or enough to predict what I will do when it comes to how to build something. What they don't fully understand is I don't sell parts for profit except for brakes and some steering bits. If I do a build, I don't supply the parts other than those mentioned. I wind up acquiring lots of small bits that we need but none of the other items.

I also have one goal when I do something, I don't want to have it come back with a problem. I want it to be the best I can make it, and I want it to make the owner smile from ear to ear every single time they drive it on the highway or off road.
As such, ride quality, steering, handling, stopping and all the things that make that experience as good as possible are important to me with durability being at the top for every aspect.

Now knowing that and knowing that I really prefer not to compromise, how many folks that currently run the MC stuff think I should really stop using the inferior JJ and switch over to MC joints? Are you willing to put your money where your mouth is and tell me to switch joints and I will be able to look my client in the eye with a straight face and tell him I've done him a solid?

Don't be shy.
 
I suspect folks think they know a little about me or enough to predict what I will do when it comes to how to build something. What they don't fully understand is I don't sell parts for profit except for brakes and some steering bits. If I do a build, I don't supply the parts other than those mentioned. I wind up acquiring lots of small bits that we need but none of the other items.

I also have one goal when I do something, I don't want to have it come back with a problem. I want it to be the best I can make it, and I want it to make the owner smile from ear to ear every single time they drive it on the highway or off road.
As such, ride quality, steering, handling, stopping and all the things that make that experience as good as possible are important to me with durability being at the top for every aspect.

Now knowing that and knowing that I really prefer not to compromise, how many folks that currently run the MC stuff think I should really stop using the inferior JJ and switch over to MC joints? Are you willing to put your money where your mouth is and tell me to switch joints and I will be able to look my client in the eye with a straight face and tell him I've done him a solid?

Don't be shy.
Absolutely not. I believe the JJ to be the best option and in hindsight would have likely gone that route.

The flip side is I haven't had any issue with my MC joints. I was trying to help push towards identifying what is the biggest factor to the durability of them.

I think with your involvement in the industry it's great how neutral you are with products. I think you also know if you endorse something it wields a lot of weight in peoples minds.
 
drama free (unless it's a Metalcloak vs Savvy / Currie discussion).
Aluminum vs steel
Steel vs synthetic
Warn vs Smittybuilt
LCOG vs anything
Mid-Arm vs anything
Savvy vs anything
Bilstein vs anything
Patagonia vs anything
Fuel economy vs anything
Gearing vs anything

Some of my personal favorites.

Who said the JJ was inferior to anything? Did I miss that in this 7 pages of bull snot?
Nobody, but we sure do seem to have experts citing evidence. I'm sure we're not too far off from Metalcloak arms being dangerous to run, that's where this type of thing tends to lead.