G2 Core 44 Axle Assembly, Dana 35 upgrade, Dana 44

OP, the conversation seems to have drifted from your stated desire to upgrade the rear 35. Although you mentioned a desire to run a larger tire later, you didn't provide specifics on what you have now, and what you plan to install. Also, understanding what kind of wheeling you do, and how you drive, will help others help you.

That said, there are lots of folks here that reliably wheel on 33" and 35" tires with either a upgraded stock Dana 35 or Dana 44. It's important to keep in mind that swapping to an aftermarket provider, e.g. Currie, ECGS, G2, etc., can introduce other variables like added weight or clearance issues, depending on the housing and setup. These aren't issues to necessarily worry about, but are things to factor in.
 
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I thought the Easter Bunny knew everything?
Apparently your parents educated you poorly on the traits of childhood mythological characters. The EB drops little nuggets here and there, some are fit for consumption, some are not. Don't confuse the two.
Let me rephrase the question in a more simplistic manner.
Do you find the Currie housing with their forged inner C's to be acceptable? I'm going to be replacing my front Rubi axle in the not so distant future. I cannot find a standard TJ housing anywhere. Everyone seems to only make these JK style housings.
I'll take a peek at one today and see.
And why no love for Carbon?
They are the same crew that walked away from Drivetrain Direct and started Alloy USA. Not a fan of their business methodology.
 
If you get to the point where that even begins to make any sense whatsoever, go get a bigger axle because a slightly larger gear set won't fix everything else that is wrong and by the time you do all of that crap to a TJ 44, you can afford a real axle.
I wasn't talking about upgrades for a TJ Dana 44, there's really no reason to buy one unless it's a great deal.

Just trying to help others understand what's actually inside there couple thousand dollars axles, instead of just spitting out JK GEARS FOR MAXIMUM STRENGTH every time anyone asks.
 
I wasn't talking about upgrades for a TJ Dana 44, there's really no reason to buy one unless it's a great deal.

Just trying to help others understand what's actually inside there couple thousand dollars axles, instead of just spitting out JK GEARS FOR MAXIMUM STRENGTH every time anyone asks.
But the point is that the gears are rarely the problem with these axles.
 
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Yeah so it's just a larger pinion, which I don't think is the weak point in that setup. If you can find the maximum input or output torque ratings from Dana, I think it will only be marginally better than a regular Dana 44. Though I think the JK specs are hard to find.

The best upgrade for gears in a Dana 44 is probably the jantz Jana 50 kit, though idk if it would even work in a JK based housing since it sounds like the JK pinion bearings might have a smaller spread. At that point you're back to the regular Dana 44 sized pinion though, so that's probably next to break.

A new Dana 44 Advantek front housing is probably the next strongest thing besides a Dana 60. The load ratings are just below a D50 gear set, but the pinion is massive, with a load bolt added it'd probably be a solid setup, assuming you retube the housing of course

I wasn't talking about upgrades for a TJ Dana 44, there's really no reason to buy one unless it's a great deal.
If that isn't what you meant, then clarify it with what you actually mean. Just because it is rattling around contextually in your head and you puke it out on the board doesn't mean we see what you meant.

And if is isn't the TJ 44 then my comment is even more appropriate for other 44's. Buy a real axle if you are blowing up gear sets.
 
If that isn't what you meant, then clarify it with what you actually mean. Just because it is rattling around contextually in your head and you puke it out on the board doesn't mean we see what you meant.

And if is isn't the TJ 44 then my comment is even more appropriate for other 44's. Buy a real axle if you are blowing up gear sets.
Well the jantz Jana 54 kit is only for high pinion axles, so that doesn't exactly fit a TJ Dana 44, that's why I say I wasn't referring to a TJ 44.

I was just referring to Dana 44's in general, hence why I just said Dana 44. Then when I mention the Jana 54 kit, anyone that knows it's for high pinion axles can infer that I'm referring to high pinon Dana 44's in general.

The letters you highlighted above I still believe are true, if you've got a HP Dana 44 and blow up a ring and pinion and don't want to scrap the entire axle, the Jana 54 kit is probably your best chance at not breaking a ring and pinion again, and it's not that much money to lose if it doesn't work.

There are other options to help out the ring and pinion as well.

I believe there is a small niche where a Dana 44/50/60 hybrid would be a great fit for a TJ, I also happen to think my end goals will be in that niche. Obviously there's a lot of factors that play into axle choice, but basically I think a HP Dana 44 would probably be strong enough for 35's, and a mild LS build. I know a Dana 44 housing fits pretty well in the front with my current up travel, I think I could probably make it fit a bit better given the opportunity to build a custom one and put the diff where it needs to be. I don't want to try and deal with the larger HP 60 housings in the front because I don't think I need that much gear.

So instead I'll use a late 70's HP Dana 44 Ford housing with 3" tubes. I'll cut the tubes and leave a 6" stub or so on each side. Sleeve over the top of those with some 3.5"x.25" wall tube, with 99-04 SD 60 outers and 35 spline shafts, I've even got those currie aluminum outer knuckles for it already. It'll use Dana 50 gears, with a load bolt, and ideally I'll be gun drilling all of the axle shafts to help add some twist and take some of the shock load off of the gears. This is something I think could help a lot, but isn't something you see done very often because of expense. The idea being the Dana 50 gears, load bolt and the gun drilled shafts will add enough strength and durability to the gears so that I never ever have a problem with them. If it doesn't work, oh well, I'll swap some new gears in and start creating something else.

I'm not trying to recommend this for anyone else, it is simply the result of me thinking about my situation and pouring over all my options for a very long time, and I just like doing weird oddball shit.


Idk if any of that answered your question, I just try to correct info I know is wrong, and axles are something I feel I know a decent amount about. Originally, it being that a HP JK Dana 44 axle does NOT use an 8.9" ring gear, only the low pinion JK housings do. I don't care if that's the weak point, or whatever, I just know it's wrong and there's no reason not to correct that. I felt like adding some info about other Dana 44 gearing upgrades it options since it seemed relevant to the conversation
 
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Well the jantz Jana 54 kit is only for high pinion axles, so that doesn't exactly fit a TJ Dana 44, that's why I say I wasn't referring to a TJ 44.

I was just referring to Dana 44's in general, hence why I just said Dana 44. Then when I mention the Jana 54 kit, anyone that knows it's for high pinion axles can infer that I'm referring to high pinon Dana 44's in general.

The letters you highlighted above I still believe are true, if you've got a HP Dana 44 and blow up a ring and pinion and don't want to scrap the entire axle, the Jana 54 kit is probably your best chance at not breaking a ring and pinion again, and it's not that much money to lose if it doesn't work.

There are other options to help out the ring and pinion as well.

I believe there is a small niche where a Dana 44/50/60 hybrid would be a great fit for a TJ, I also happen to think my end goals will be in that niche. Obviously there's a lot of factors that play into axle choice, but basically I think a HP Dana 44 would probably be strong enough for 35's, and a mild LS build. I know a Dana 44 housing fits pretty well in the front with my current up travel, I think I could probably make it fit a bit better given the opportunity to build a custom one and put the diff where it needs to be. I don't want to try and deal with the larger HP 60 housings in the front because I don't think I need that much gear.

So instead I'll use a late 70's HP Dana 44 Ford housing with 3" tubes. I'll cut the tubes and leave a 6" stub or so on each side. Sleeve over the top of those with some 3.5"x.25" wall tube, with 99-04 SD 60 outers and 35 spline shafts, I've even got those currie aluminum outer knuckles for it already. It'll use Dana 50 gears, with a load bolt, and ideally I'll be gun drilling all of the axle shafts to help add some twist and take some of the shock load off of the gears. This is something I think could help a lot, but isn't something you see done very often because of expense. The idea being the Dana 50 gears, load bolt and the gun drilled shafts will add enough strength and durability to the gears so that I never ever have a problem with them. If it doesn't work, oh well, I'll swap some new gears in and start creating something else.

I'm not trying to recommend this for anyone else, it is simply the result of me thinking about my situation and pouring over all my options for a very long time, and I just like doing weird oddball shit.


Idk if any of that answered your question, I just try to correct info I know is wrong, and axles are something I feel I know a decent amount about. Originally, it being that a HP JK Dana 44 axle does NOT use an 8.9" ring gear, only the low pinion JK housings do. I don't care if that's the weak point, or whatever, I just know it's wrong and there's no reason not to correct that. I felt like adding some info about other Dana 44 gearing upgrades it options since it seemed relevant to the conversation
I have a Jantz kit in a TJ 44. ;)
 
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Something worth mentioning as well, my Currie 44 front came with the C's rotated slightly. Makes a bit of difference to keep the pinion angle and caster in better alignment when doing a lift or TT.
 
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OP, the conversation seems to have drifted from your stated desire to upgrade the rear 35. Although you mentioned a desire to run a larger tire later, you didn't provide specifics on what you have now, and what you plan to install. Also, understanding what kind of wheeling you do, and how you drive, will help others help you.

That said, there are lots of folks here that reliably wheel on 33" and 35" tires with either a upgraded stock Dana 35 or Dana 44. It's important to keep in mind that swapping to an aftermarket provider, e.g. Currie, ECGS, G2, etc., can introduce other variables like added weight or clearance issues, depending on the housing and setup. These aren't issues to necessarily worry about, but are things to factor in.
I have stock Dana 35 with 33s and I want a selectable locker in the rear for now. To upgrade to super 35 with arb or ox is about 2K in parts plus, Im guessing, 600-800 to regear... being that close to 3k invested in a rear end I started looking at dana 44 assemblies ready to bolt in, cause I can do that in my shop. For the money and the option to run up to 37s in the future got me thinking why polish a turd when I can open my options in the future for a 1000 more or so instead of in the future never upgrading cause I've already invested, or spending another 4k.
 
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I have stock Dana 35 with 33s and I want a selectable locker in the rear for now. To upgrade to super 35 with arb or ox is about 2K in parts plus, Im guessing, 600-800 to regear... being that close to 3k invested in a rear end I started looking at dana 44 assemblies ready to bolt in, cause I can do that in my shop. For the money and the option to run up to 37s in the future got me thinking why polish a turd when I can open my options in the future for a 1000 more or so instead of in the future never upgrading cause I've already invested, or spending another 4k.
Nothing wrong with your thinking.. However, if you're planning on a selectable locker 44, my guess is you will be pushing $5k.
 
Nothing wrong with your thinking.. However, if you're planning on a selectable locker 44, my guess is you will be pushing $5k.
A 489 Dana 44 for TJ configuration ready to bolt in, $3,504 shipped from ECGS. That’s 30-spline or 35-spline (depending on locker of choice) with gears of choice. Set to your lift. Granted that’s with a stock cover and no brakes…

2469305F-18D7-4924-A97D-D397FC172569.jpeg
 
A 489 Dana 44 for TJ configuration ready to bolt in, $3,504 shipped from ECGS. That’s 30-spline or 35-spline (depending on locker of choice) with gears of choice. Set to your lift. Granted that’s with a stock cover and no brakes…

View attachment 273372
Yeah i built one on their website earlier today… i may go that route…
 
A 489 Dana 44 for TJ configuration ready to bolt in, $3,504 shipped from ECGS. That’s 30-spline or 35-spline (depending on locker of choice) with gears of choice. Set to your lift. Granted that’s with a stock cover and no brakes…

View attachment 273372
I wondered why he tought 5k… i typed a long response but wasnt signed in so it didnt send.
 
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A 489 Dana 44 for TJ configuration ready to, bolt in, $3,504 shipped from ECGS. That’s 30-spline or 35-spline (depending on locker of choice) with gears of choice. Set to your lift. Granted that’s with a stock cover and no brakes…

View attachment 273372
3504 + 875 for the elocker... By my math, that makes the axle about 4400 bucks, before any other options... It's a lot more than 2k for a lockers, gears and labor.

Plus, 37s will tear up a 44 or 30 up front. Gears are fine... Ball joints are not. Neither are the bearings.
 
A 489 Dana 44 for TJ configuration ready to bolt in, $3,504 shipped from ECGS. That’s 30-spline or 35-spline (depending on locker of choice) with gears of choice. Set to your lift. Granted that’s with a stock cover and no brakes…

View attachment 273372
Just built a ford 8.8 for 3100 on their website… didnt add bells and whistles, but did add locker and chromoly shafts