Okay. Good info and I too have one of those sets so will check to see if I have the correct size. The OP with a 98 TJ mentions in his opening post that he tested it while running so must have a exposed valve. I will check with my local O'Reillys on the loan or maybe what they sell for a kit.
Leaking Injector?
- Thread starter 98TxTJ
- Start date
Your 2004 doesn't have a port on the fuel rail for testing pressure. 1997 - 2002 models have a Schrader valve on the fuel rail. 2003 and newer models have a pulse damper on the fuel rail, but no Schrader valve.
Auto parts stores sell cheap plastic fuel line disconnect tools that work well. I have one but I can't remember what size it is.
Well missed by that much. So I suppose I can still test the pressure coming from the pump by disconnecting the fuel line at the rail/. looking on line at test kits right now. There are 33 dollar kits and 63 dollar kits with many more connectors but I can't tell if any of them have the correct connector for this TJ.
I'm building a test fixture to once-and-for-all rule out the fuel rail as the point of pressure leak down.
I have a new fuel pressure regulator to install on the fuel pump based on the fast leak down, since the manual points to that as a likely cause of losing pressure quickly, if it's not an injector leak. (Which makes me believe a lot of people are replacing the pumps when the regulator is the only issue.)
Given that this is the third time around on a slow crank issue, what is the downside, if any, of installing an inline check valve just after the outlet from the regulator, provided I periodically check for proper pump function by doing a pressure test to make sure it's still in the 49 + 5 psi spec'd range?
Here's what I'd use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JJ128LN/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I have a new fuel pressure regulator to install on the fuel pump based on the fast leak down, since the manual points to that as a likely cause of losing pressure quickly, if it's not an injector leak. (Which makes me believe a lot of people are replacing the pumps when the regulator is the only issue.)
Given that this is the third time around on a slow crank issue, what is the downside, if any, of installing an inline check valve just after the outlet from the regulator, provided I periodically check for proper pump function by doing a pressure test to make sure it's still in the 49 + 5 psi spec'd range?
Here's what I'd use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JJ128LN/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Any idea if the 2004 has the same setup as the 2005/06? I received the test gauge set today and will be testing it tomorrow but if I need to pull the tank I want to have the Bosch unit(s) here before starting the job.
If you are asking about the fuel pump, no. If you are talking about injectors, I'm pretty sure those are interchangeable for different year models.
My research today shows 2003 and 04 are the same pump. The Bosch complete pump 67726 and/or module 69316 were available on Amazon but could not be shipped to my address. After speaking to Amazon on line, they say Bosch does not ship to my zip code. Maybe because it's Kalifornia.??? So I began a search that led me to Rock Auto, who WILL ship to my address (at least so far) but to get a better rate I selected the 8-10 days delivery. Rounded up to 210 smackers. I don't want to just replace the pump module and have to do this again. Local NAPA had a Bosch module but not the pump. Could get the entire pump tomorrow but counter man said theirs are Carter or Delpi, so I'm thinking Delphi and I see on this forum they have not been great. Did I mention I don't want to do this again?
Seems these are a problem based on the number of folks having issues and on the Bosch site they recommend not overheating the pump by allowing the tank to go below a quarter full. Not always possible obviously.
So hopes this all works out and helps someone else. And if these are only a two year production pump maybe I need another one on the shelf? Likely Bosch will stop making these as demand fades. Thanks again for the diagnostic help from members.
Seems these are a problem based on the number of folks having issues and on the Bosch site they recommend not overheating the pump by allowing the tank to go below a quarter full. Not always possible obviously.
So hopes this all works out and helps someone else. And if these are only a two year production pump maybe I need another one on the shelf? Likely Bosch will stop making these as demand fades. Thanks again for the diagnostic help from members.
As far as I know rebuilt injectors are just cleaned and are supplied with new orings. I found a local shop(in Fraser, mi) that cleaned and inspected for $10 each.
This is not an issue with our Jeeps, you can run it all the way out of fuel without risking damage to the pump. You wont overheat anything or suck in debris from the bottom of the tank or anything else. Those things float around on the internet but aren't something you need to worry about.
801 Driver
TJ Enthusiast
My 98 has a schrader valve. I just happened to have an old set of R-22 freon gauges that one of the lines fit. I kept them hung high during the test and open for drying after using. Good luck to you.
Did you ever try this? I think I'm having the same issue and want to try it but I'm not sure on the efficacy or longevity. At this point it seems my only option for a full replacement of the pump is a delphi and the reviews on them seem to be pretty mixed so I might avoid it if possible.
I saw someone else did this a 4 years ago with a yj on youtube: but he hasn't updated since a couple comments on the video 3 years ago.
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