Upgrade to Super 35, or swap to Dana 44?

[chimmike]

Figuring on doing 33" tires, maybe 35's at some point down the road (but unlikely). I'm seeing the super 35 kit is pretty good, and the pricing for the non-chromoly shafts + locker is reasonable.
In comparison, the TJ Dana 44's I can find locally are $900+. Then I'd have to drop another grand for an air locker if I went that route.

50% of one, 1/2 of the other? Just stick with the Dana 35 and go super 35 for the dollar?

Use: non-hardcore wheeling. I'm in FL. May travel to ORV parks in the Southeast. Maybe a MOAB trip in 2 years but obviously won't be doing the hardest lines.

 

[qslim]

Lots of guys on here run the S35 & wheel the hell out of it. I don't think you'll find a S35 owner that has anything bad to say about it. I had a S35 lined up ready to install until I just happened to find a smoking deal on a Dana 44 locally, so I went the swap route for that reason instead of upgrading because it ended up being cheaper. Otherwise I would have done the S35 & taken it down to Moab with no hesitation.

 

[JMT]

Either way. Whatever you want. Whatever fits your budget. Either is good up to 35” tires.

 

[starkey480]

Happy with my super 35 on 35s.

 

[eastbloc]

I have a feeling that in another decade, stupid miss information associated with Dana 35 will die off, and it will go up in value.

Dana 35 and 44 share same housing
Dana 35 smaller pumpkin offers better clearance
Dana 35 smaller ring and pinion is not an issue
Dana 35 axle shafts are a weak point that gets replaced in S35 conversion

Downside of upgrading Dana 35 is its price. Parts and regear job will land you $1000 shy of purchasing a complete axle, to your spec, from somewhere like ECGS. Today you may feel good abut saving a grand, in few month you may wonder why didn't you do it.
If you are planning to get Dana 44 from ebay/craigs/fb - i hope you are able to inspect them well.

 

[JMT]

I swapped. For just the rear. $800 for a Dana 44 with disc brakes. Elocker $850, gears $250, install $600. Total $2500

 

[eastbloc]

I swapped. For just the rear. $800 for a Dana 44 with disc brakes. Elocker $850, gears $250, install $600. Total $2500

Yours is a good example of "why not". Most installs will be in $1000 for labor, so that would put S35 in price range of your swap. Considering that most people already have disgusted feeling with their Dana 35, i can see them looking at S35 as wtf, from financial perspective.
Considering the time frame and demand, i cant help to wonder how many direct bolt on and in good shape D44s are left out there

 

[JMT]

Yours is a good example of "why not". Most installs will be in $1000 for labor, so that would put S35 in price range of your swap. Considering that most people already have disgusted feeling with their Dana 35, i can see them looking at S35 as wtf, from financial perspective.
Considering the time frame and demand, i cant help to wonder how many direct bolt on and in good shape D44s are left out there

I only included half the labor install since I did both axles at the same time. On our other rig, we’re planning a S35 unless we find something already regeared and a good deal. S35 more clearance, shorter, allowing longer driveshaft, et al.

 

[chimmike]

I have a feeling that in another decade, stupid miss information associated with Dana 35 will die off, and it will go up in value.

Dana 35 and 44 share same housing
Dana 35 smaller pumpkin offers better clearance
Dana 35 smaller ring and pinion is not an issue
Dana 35 axle shafts are a weak point that gets replaced in S35 conversion

Downside of upgrading Dana 35 is its price. Parts and regear job will land you $1000 shy of purchasing a complete axle, to your spec, from somewhere like ECGS. Today you may feel good abut saving a grand, in few month you may wonder why didn't you do it.
If you are planning to get Dana 44 from ebay/craigs/fb - i hope you are able to inspect them well.

so, I looked at ECGS, and they don't offer a Dana 35 build. The Dana 44 build comes out to well over $3k not including a locker. That's all good and nice, but I don't need Dana 60 strength, and if I wanted that kind of strength honestly I'd buy a Dana 60 from 3/4 ton out of a junkyard....and that's the kind of stuff i'm just trying to avoid.

As much as I want to build this jeep as a badass, hardcore crawler on long arm super flexy suspension with build 60's front/rear, ARB's, and 40" tires......it's not realistic. This thing's gonna get a 3.5" short arm lift. I will do lockers and probably 4.10s for the 33's....but that's as hardcore as I'll get. Should be plenty capable for me at that point anyway. I mean, I live in Florida.

 

[starkey480]

@eastbloc the clearance is actually very nice as you stated. There has been times I can squeak a line that my dad cannot with a Dana 44. I got my super kit for $400 on marketplace and my Jeep came with 4.56 when I bought it. I lucked out

 

[chimmike]

FWIW, I'll do all labor myself, so that saves some coin on the axle shaft and locker install, which basically makes this a $1500 or so upgrade for me to do S35 upgrade with locker on my already-owned Dana 35.
Dana 44 alone locally is $900+. Add locker, $1200, gears, probably a rebuild kit for the axle considering I'll have no idea what shape it's in...$$$$.

 

[starkey480]

FWIW, I'll do all labor myself, so that saves some coin on the axle shaft and locker install, which basically makes this a $1500 or so upgrade for me to do S35 upgrade with locker on my already-owned Dana 35.
Dana 44 alone locally is $900+. Add locker, $1200, gears, probably a rebuild kit for the axle considering I'll have no idea what shape it's in...$$$$.

Do you already have the gears you want in your 35? If you do then it’s a no brainer

 

[mrblaine]

I have a feeling that in another decade, stupid miss information associated with Dana 35 will die off, and it will go up in value.

Dana 35 and 44 share same housing

Not even close. While the axle tubes are the same diameter and wall thickness, the rigidity of the Dana 44 center casting is far higher which results in more consistent gear tooth contact.

Dana 35 smaller pumpkin offers better clearance

It does, at the expense of strength.

Dana 35 smaller ring and pinion is not an issue

Generally true.

Dana 35 axle shafts are a weak point that gets replaced in S35 conversion

Downside of upgrading Dana 35 is its price. Parts and regear job will land you $1000 shy of purchasing a complete axle, to your spec, from somewhere like ECGS. Today you may feel good abut saving a grand, in few month you may wonder why didn't you do it.
If you are planning to get Dana 44 from ebay/craigs/fb - i hope you are able to inspect them well.

Or, it's hard to save a grand if you don't have it to save.

 

[mrblaine]

Considering the time frame and demand, i cant help to wonder how many direct bolt on and in good shape D44s are left out there

They aren't as uncommon as you'd think. I've got 4 of them.

 

[srimes]

Starting from stock I'd run 31s on the Dana 35, keeping it a nice driver and still more capable than 99% ever use. People have lower expectations and it's fun putting them to shame with a small-tire little jeep.

Going bigger I'd wait for a good deal on a Dana 44, or get a ford 8.8 for cheap beef.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

You'll never regret having installed a Super 35 for the uses you describe.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Not even close. While the axle tubes are the same diameter and wall thickness, the rigidity of the Dana 44 center casting is far higher which results in more consistent gear tooth contact.

I'm definitely not disagreeing since I really don't know. But I do remember Mac telling me at the 4x4 show in Pomona he either thought or came to the conclusion the Dana 35 housing was stiff enough to not need the truss you designed and he/Superior Axle came out with that I installed. I remember because I was so shocked by what he said. What did I misunderstand?

 

[mrblaine]

I'm definitely not disagreeing since I really don't know. But I do remember Mac telling me at the 4x4 show in Pomona he either thought or came to the conclusion the Dana 35 housing was stiff enough to not need the truss you designed and he/Superior Axle came out with that I installed. I remember because I was so shocked by what he said. What did I misunderstand?

Not sure. I did a very basic test on two stockish TJ's, one with a Dana 35 and the other with a 44. I stretched a thin piano wire between the the lower control arm mounts so I could measure from it up to the diff. Jacked the rig up by the diff and measured how far the tubes deflected. The 44 was a minor amount. The 35 deflected an astounding amount.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

That is good proof right there!

 

[chimmike]

So the deflection, if I was concerned by it, could be remedied via truss, no? Worst-case scenario assumg I can't find a Dana 44 for a good deal and take time to rebuild it how I want...versus the super 35 (which I'm honestly leaning towards anyway)