Seized driveshaft

I had a flutter coming from the rear under load that increased with speed. I thought it was my rear Adams shaft. I planned to rebuild it but called Adams first. After watching a few videos they insisted I send it in on their dime. They evaluated it and replaced the ujoint at the pinion end. I got it back and installed it. Same problem. I called them and they insisted they went over the whole shaft and everything was good. I set out to find the problem starting with the TCase output shaft and bearing. Worked my way through the axle bearings and diff. problem still there. Changed rear axle shafts. Problem remained. Tore into the CA’s and relubed all the joints. Same problem persisted. I finally rebuilt the rest of the driveshaft. Problem solved. 🙄 I was pretty upset Adams didn’t find the problem and sent me down a rabbit hole. Should have gone with my gut from the start and just rebuilt the whole shaft. To their credit the service was amicable, but to their discredit they couldn’t diagnose the problem with their own shaft.
 
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Completely forgot that i have been carrying my old ds in the back all this years, i had plans to swing by their location and have Steven explain this to me face to face. Here are pics of what i was referring to, and now that i see it again i wonder if dust/sand got in there thought back opening, but then how come in 1st photo there is a rough patch surrounded by smooth teflon on both ends?


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Most likely the rough patch is the normal area of travel for the ds...and it was contaminated with water and debris.

Makes me think that just greasing a ds might not be enough...and perhaps more aggressive maintenance might be needed.

And more to the point... perhaps this is why there are boots on factory shafts.

-Mac
 
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Most likely the rough patch is the normal area of travel for the ds...and it was contaminated with water and debris.

Makes me think that just greasing a ds might not be enough...and perhaps more aggressive maintenance might be needed.

And more to the point... perhaps this is why there are boots on factory shafts.

-Mac

Nope. There are tons of shafts out there that see little maintenance and live in worse environments. Are all the issues related to one manufacturer?
 
Most likely the rough patch is the normal area of travel for the ds...and it was contaminated with water and debris.

Makes me think that just greasing a ds might not be enough...and perhaps more aggressive maintenance might be needed.

And more to the point... perhaps this is why there are boots on factory shafts.

-Mac

A sealed boot is the way to go in my opinion, my original front ds slides in and out just as smooth as aftermarket at this point.

You are also correct about a more aggressive maintenance with Adams, and here is my take on it:
Splip yoke on their ds has 2 holes, 1 for grease zerk and other acts as a breather hole through which all contamination suppose to escape. Problem is that grease will be escaping out of there as well as all the crap will be getting in. In theory it is a good design that cleans itself out, AS LONG AS there is plenty of grease in there, it will come out and push all the crap out with it.

So the question is, what is the maintenance interval? I have thought about it and came to a realization that it does not matter, because design is flawed. How can i assure that there will always be grease around the splines? Have plenty of grease in there and restrict its flow only through the top. Physics are physics, spin liquid in a sealed cylinder around its central axis and it will evenly distribute around the walls, give it room to escape and it will.

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Upper portion is sealed, bottom has a hole, so we have what we have.
I was maintaining my ds but obviously not often enough, or maybe not properly enough.
What if debris already got into the tube and i put more grease in there through zerk, would it not push debris into splines?

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in 2018 when i got that ds, i wrote to them to ask if that 2nd hole is intentionally left open there, because it was spewing grease during driving. They respond, i quote:

"On the end there is a plug it does have a breather hole in it for grease , water or anything else to come out of it the grease will stop coming out that sometime happens when they are first built...."

My interpretation of that broken middle school level of English is that it works as intended.
Their maintenance instruction only states to put grease in through the zerk.
https://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com/maintenance-grease-information/

So that is my view on it just from lubricating standpoint. There is also a possibility of issues with balance and improperly cut splines as evident by chewed up spline ends in my previous photos, because the deeper i push spline stub into slip yoke, more resistance it encounters and consequently seizing up beyond my physical ability to separate it. Until i get a bore scope in there, this will be left to speculations.
 
I definitely feel the need for a boot on the driveshaft. Especially in the swampy areas, I play in. However, any bit of climbing and that thing would 100% be pointless as I know down there I am banging rocks and that was before when I took it easy on 31s...
 
I think that a lot of this boils down to not picking the correct parts for the application. While the full length splines are popular IMO it is less than ideal if you play in the wet. The shaft builders like the full length spline as it allows for more travel when combined with the correct slip yoke giving a bit of wiggle room for measuring errors. The problem is the exposed splines, the seal and location of the grease zerk. The pic shows from R-L the common Spicer 2-40-1701, the Neapco N2-40-1701-1 long spline, the Neapco N2-40-1701-2 long full length spline and seals that are used with them. Notice the zerk is in the seal on the non full spline so it greases from the top of the spline down to the weep hole in the slip versus the full length where the zerk is typically in slip yoke near the ujoint end.

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I'm having this same issue with my Adams. I've had mine since 2017, 15,000 miles.

Nothing I do has freed it up yet. Even ripped a strap in half winching on it. I have it soaking in a bucket of used motor oil now, since spraying it with penetrating fluid started to feel like squirting money down the drain. Luckily nothing seems damaged from driving with it seized (who knows how long it was for sure).

My wife wants me to just buy a new one vs keep trying increasingly sketchy things to try to get it apart. If I do it will be a Tom Woods. But my hope is either this one can be fixed or Adams sends me a new one.
 
If the slip is stuck that bad the only way to fix that is to cit that end off and replace it.

How many in this thread are having problems with their Adams shafts? Anyone having issues with a Woods shaft? Or other manufacturers? Seems to be a manufacturer issue and not a maintenance/environment issue.
 
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How many in this thread are having problems with their Adams shafts? Anyone having issues with a Woods shaft? Or other manufacturers? Seems to be a manufacturer issue and not a maintenance/environment issue.

I've read some stories of this issue with Tom's. It does seem like Adam's has the issue more, but of course I can't know for certain. I was going to get Tom's as a replacement mostly because they have a good reputation and it just makes sense to try a different company than the one that gave me trouble. However, Adam's has offered to ship me a new one at a discounted price ($115 off), so maybe I'll be sticking with them. I'm going to try to separate the shaft one more time today before I decide. Saving $115 is tempting but if this is less of an issue with Tom's then it's worth spending more for them.

No matter which way I go, I'm going to add a new item to my maintenance schedule. Instead of just greasing all the joints in the shaft, I'm going to remove it from the rear yoke, slide it apart, clean the splines and slip shaft, and grease the splines. With how often I grease my Jeep, this would happen about every 3 months, and after every wheeling trip. Hopefully that will prevent me from ever having this issue again. If not, then no discount would get me to buy another one.
 
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Crazy that all these Adams guys are chiming in that is for sure. Obviously, each company has its flaws. If this next Adams shaft fails in short order I may try a local shop as getting part, after part across the border is starting to add up.
 
However, Adam's has offered to ship me a new one at a discounted price ($115 off), so maybe I'll be sticking with them.

Since you mentioned it, they did the same thing for me. Considering the inconvenience of returning and waiting process, of course i took their offer, 5 days - bam! new ds delivered with a discount!
Those fucks know exactly what they are doing, and i call them fucks because when later on it came to resolving issues with replacement, they had no intentions of dealing with it, whole lot of talk, whole lot of writing and 0 result. Had i not ran into issues with replacements, i would stfu and not bother with this thread.
 
Crazy that all these Adams guys are chiming in that is for sure. Obviously, each company has its flaws. If this next Adams shaft fails in short order I may try a local shop as getting part, after part across the border is starting to add up.

What gets me is not the issue, is how they resolve it.
When i read post after post of people say TW took care of the issue, and here i am being bribed with a discount replacement and then 2nd time around they decide to play stupid.
 
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What gets me is not the issue, is how they resolve it.
When i read post after post of people say TW took care of the issue, and here i am being bribed with a discount replacement and then 2nd time around they decide to play stupid.

Absolutely. The fact that I am putting in another $150 into a shaft, that should last a long long time, in less than a year is nuts. Hopefully, It is better off the 2nd time but if not my money is going elsewhere unless there willing to cover the next one...
 
Since you mentioned it, they did the same thing for me. Considering the inconvenience of returning and waiting process, of course i took their offer, 5 days - bam! new ds delivered with a discount!
Those fucks know exactly what they are doing, and i call them fucks because when later on it came to resolving issues with replacement, they had no intentions of dealing with it, whole lot of talk, whole lot of writing and 0 result. Had i not ran into issues with replacements, i would stfu and not bother with this thread.

That is making me want to turn down the discount offer and go with Tom Woods. Normally I wouldn't hesitate so much but now is not a good time to be spending more than I need to.

The first shaft I got from them was out of balance. They sent me a new one (the one I have now) with no questions, before I even shipped the first one. That felt really good. But if I buy this discounted one and it is also out of balance and I get the run around... no good.

Really leaning towards Tom Woods right now, probably worth paying more for.
 
How many in this thread are having problems with their Adams shafts? Anyone having issues with a Woods shaft? Or other manufacturers? Seems to be a manufacturer issue and not a maintenance/environment issue.

I cannot speak to what components Adams uses but my experience with using Neapco (Spicer does not do much in the full spline) has been you have to be diligent in your maintenance with the full spline shafts. I have even tried to move the zerk to the seal and that provided no real improvement. What does work is plugging the weep hole in the slip and going to a boot but if you play in the rocks the boot becomes a liability. When it comes to maintaining driveshafts I am not a fan of traditional Moly greases. Lucas Red and Tacky, Chevron Ultra Duty EP2, and Spicer has their own Calcium Sulfonate thickend synthetic grease that work well. I am currently using Redline CV2 which seems to be working good but I want more time before I give it a full blessing.
 
I cannot speak to what components Adams uses but my experience with using Neapco (Spicer does not do much in the full spline) has been you have to be diligent in your maintenance with the full spline shafts. I have even tried to move the zerk to the seal and that provided no real improvement. What does work is plugging the weep hole in the slip and going to a boot but if you play in the rocks the boot becomes a liability. When it comes to maintaining driveshafts I am not a fan of traditional Moly greases. Lucas Red and Tacky, Chevron Ultra Duty EP2, and Spicer has their own Calcium Sulfonate thickend synthetic grease that work well. I am currently using Redline CV2 which seems to be working good but I want more time before I give it a full blessing.

Tom's is full spline as well, as far as I can tell, but it doesn't seem like they have the same seizing up issue. I could be wrong about that. From the photo on Tom Wood's website it looks like they are greased the same way as well. Regardless, I plan to be more diligent anyway, and not rely on the grease zerks alone.

About to go give one more shot at freeing it up... sigh