Cummins R2.8 swap Alaska build

Update for the day!

Motor is out, engine bay is clean, now doing some research since the ax15 I was given has sheered off mount (skid plate mount).
Well i'll definitely will stay tuned for this build sir, Id like to r2.8 swap my Lj considering the cost of the plan i have to build a 4.7 Stroker that can handle boost, but realistically thinking id rather have something fuel efficient like the r2.8 that has some torque to "push" all the additional weight from mods, And something more fuel efficient would be great since it is my daily that's driven 80+ miles a day! Plus the cool factor of having something swapped is badass to me 😉
Id love to hear some Mpg numbers my man and how it drives once your done with this project !😄
 
Will be following this. Don't think I'd swap one in but they are kewl little engines and I like the idea of the diesel. Always been a fan of a diesel in our rigs.

My teenaged mind would love too but money as always...is lacking for the engine swap department😆
A Mercedes OM606 sounds pretty cool or even a OM648 too but any diesel really, But then in the deep depths of my mind says quietly "HEMI SWAP THA THING" haha
 
Well i'll definitely will stay tuned for this build sir, Id like to r2.8 swap my Lj considering the cost of the plan i have to build a 4.7 Stroker that can handle boost, but realistically thinking id rather have something fuel efficient like the r2.8 that has some torque to "push" all the additional weight from mods, And something more fuel efficient would be great since it is my daily that's driven 80+ miles a day! Plus the cool factor of having something swapped is badass to me 😉
Id love to hear some Mpg numbers my man and how it drives once your done with this project !😄

R2.8 in TJs tend to get anywhere from high teens mpg to low 30s mpg, but I would say most guys that have build mostly for off-road use will get mid to low 20s. When I first finished my swap I was getting 26 mpg mixed and I was driving the Jeep very easy, but still with KM3 tires 33 x 10.5" with 3.07s and AX-15. Running a more aggressive mud tire before the swap I was getting 11 mpg, but that really had a lot to do with the tires and the gearing, because I could swap tires and get 18 mpg, but the experience was miserable either way IMO compared to my ZJ with a V8.

Turbo diesel engines also have A LOT of unused potential in regards to tuning and they come regulated from that factory where power, reliability, and MPG are close to last on how they are tuned. Almost every single mod you do you're going to see in your fuel logs if you keep them.

The R2.8 IMO is not a quick engine in a TJ, but it's very similar to the 4.0 until you get to highway speeds where it will actually maintain speed without a lot of shifting. But it slowly accelerates. I have driven mine and not noticed but after cresting a hill I'm doing 90 because I didn't notice I was speeding up. That's just the nature of a 160ish HP diesel engine. If it was 300 hp you'd really feel the throttle response and you'd still get basically the same MPG.

I've found MPG only to matter in the fact that I don't have to worry about fuel all the time. And if you are worrying about fuel, you don't need as much and it's much easier to store and fill compared to gas which is so volatile and always trying to make its escape and burn the place down. You're very unlikely to ever "pay" for a build either based on MPG, though there would be a slight possibility of this in other countries that have less regulations. Though in those countries you wouldn't need to do a swap anyway, you'd just buy whatever you wanted from the OEM for a fraction of the cost of US vehicles.

But my biggest preference for diesel for a vehicle like a Jeep or truck is the low end and steady torque curve. Even gas V8s don't have enough low end torque and the torque response is kinda "spikey" so you either need weird gear ratios keeping the engine screaming which I really don't like on long highway trips and hurts the MPG more or you deal with constantly shifting, which is harder to get right for the DIY engine swap (though there's a bunch of options where this is probably not as big of deal if you're looking at say a LS swap or something common) and it's hard on transmissions too and annoying for guys with manual transmissions. Basically I always find that even the big V8 engines always want to accelerate (slow down or speed up) and not just maintain speed.

I do need to give the OEMs some props making the gas (unfortunately a lot of the new diesels too) powered trucks and Jeeps ie turd sandwiches taste so good (it's regulations and not the fault of the OEMs). It's incredible the amount of infrastructure and the amount of engineering and marketing to make all these gas powered vehicles palatable, but they aren't that bad, unless you get used to not eating the turd sandwich and then you're always noticing the turd in the sandwich.
 
on 31s i was pulling the front left off of the ground in hard take launches with 4:10 gearing.

I’m in the process of getting 35s installed.

I've never done any aggressive launches with my Jeep in any configuration. I really prefer to just putt around, but I've been worried about my transmission for a long time too and figured it wouldn't hold up.

Have you done any tuning? I keeping wanting to do EGR delete and bump it up to ~190 hp and 360 ft lbs.

On another note I was kinda hoping they'd offer the 3.8 Cummins, but I'm assuming that's not ever gonna happen, but I've got another Jeep that I've been wanting to turn into a truck, but I really want a 300+hp diesel in it and I suspect that the 3.8 could be tuned and it's relatively compact. Also for the cost I can get a lot of bigger diesels or even gas engines to go into it. Of course I don't really have the time to devote to another build either, but I can always dream.
 
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I've never done any aggressive launches with my Jeep in any configuration. I really prefer to just putt around, but I've been worried about my transmission for a long time too and figured it wouldn't hold up.

Have you done any tuning? I keeping wanting to do EGR delete and bump it up to ~190 hp and 360 ft lbs.

Coming from a 2.4L on 31s to the Diesel was a big enough change for me.

I’m still trying to capture and correct all of the changes since the TJ went under the knife the first time. Maybe down the road i will look into a tune as more of the R2.8s are out there.

i have rather shallow pockets and a wife who was understanding at that moment. so i can’t risk destroying another transmission or the Engine right now.
 
I've never done any aggressive launches with my Jeep in any configuration. I really prefer to just putt around, but I've been worried about my transmission for a long time too and figured it wouldn't hold up.

Have you done any tuning? I keeping wanting to do EGR delete and bump it up to ~190 hp and 360 ft lbs.

On another note I was kinda hoping they'd offer the 3.8 Cummins, but I'm assuming that's not ever gonna happen, but I've got another Jeep that I've been wanting to turn into a truck, but I really want a 300+hp diesel in it and I suspect that the 3.8 could be tuned and it's relatively compact. Also for the cost I can get a lot of bigger diesels or even gas engines to go into it. Of course I don't really have the time to devote to another build either, but I can always dream.

The 5.0l v8 cummins was supposed to be in the crate engine program,i was disappointed it hasn't happened.That one would be fun hopped up. My brother has one in his titan hd.it gets great fuel economy and good power in that 5/8 ton pickup
 
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The 5.0l v8 cummins was supposed to be in the crate engine program,i was disappointed it hasn't happened.That one would be fun hopped up. My brother has one in his titan hd.it gets great fuel economy and good power in that 5/8 ton pickup

It was a very large engine though. At that point I'd just get a 6BT in there vs the 5.0L. I thought about buying 1 of the Nissans, but always came back to why not just get a 5.9 or 6.7 Cummins, which is just so much better in almost every way. The only thing I've noticed now is that the 5.0L seem to be noticeably cheaper than 3/4 and 1 ton diesel trucks, but I haven't been looking too seriously either. Also in the past everyone I know that worked on Nissan trucks didn't like them, though that's anecdotal, but Nissan just doesn't strike me as a great truck manufacturer.

Somewhere I was told that the ISF 3.8 has geared timing and it's very robust, though there's a known weakness somewhere when I talked with a Cummins engine tech.
 
It was a very large engine though. At that point I'd just get a 6BT in there vs the 5.0L. I thought about buying 1 of the Nissans, but always came back to why not just get a 5.9 or 6.7 Cummins, which is just so much better in almost every way. The only thing I've noticed now is that the 5.0L seem to be noticeably cheaper than 3/4 and 1 ton diesel trucks, but I haven't been looking too seriously either. Also in the past everyone I know that worked on Nissan trucks didn't like them, though that's anecdotal, but Nissan just doesn't strike me as a great truck manufacturer.

Somewhere I was told that the ISF 3.8 has geared timing and it's very robust, though there's a known weakness somewhere when I talked with a Cummins engine tech.

My brother went to rent a trailer of some kind a while ago and the rental place flat refused it. Even after he showed them the gvwr. They said come back when it grows 8 lugs 😂.

I think he wound up getting a 90s powerstroke f350 for horse trailers and other ranch work. Nissan is his dd.
 
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Newest things to add to the build!

I didn't opt for the LED yet, since I wanted to see how the normal light would look. Planning on doing something very similar to @NDSpeed 's cluster. Had to also but some fittings to adapt the water and oil gauges since they go into a metric fitting.


https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-fuel-level-e-f-fse-ultra-lite.html
https://www.autometer.com/2-boost-0-35-psi-mech.html
https://www.autometer.com/3-3-8-speedo-140-mph-gps-ultra-lite.html
https://www.autometer.com/2-oil-press-0-100-psi-mech-ultra-lite.html
https://www.autometer.com/2-water-temp-100-250-f-sse-ultra-lite.html
https://www.autometer.com/3-3-8-in-dash-tachometer-0-6-000-rpm-ultra-lite.html
 

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Newest things to add to the build!

I didn't opt for the LED yet, since I wanted to see how the normal light would look. Planning on doing something very similar to @NDSpeed 's cluster. Had to also but some fittings to adapt the water and oil gauges since they go into a metric fitting.


https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-fuel-level-e-f-fse-ultra-lite.html
https://www.autometer.com/2-boost-0-35-psi-mech.html
https://www.autometer.com/3-3-8-speedo-140-mph-gps-ultra-lite.html
https://www.autometer.com/2-oil-press-0-100-psi-mech-ultra-lite.html
https://www.autometer.com/2-water-temp-100-250-f-sse-ultra-lite.html
https://www.autometer.com/3-3-8-in-dash-tachometer-0-6-000-rpm-ultra-lite.html

I think you're pretty much on the right track. Often there's something little that you may otherwise miss, but it's also not crazy complicated, just might take a little bit of experimenting and maybe a phone call or 2 and at this point Google has more of these builds to reference. When I was doing mine I had to get Instagram just so I could see engine bay photos to try and figure out where stuff went and I think most orders from Axis at that time were revised each time.

I made my biggest mistake though with the oil pressure sensor, because I installed the engine before the sensor arrived and could only access the sensor with like 2 universal joints and a crows foot and ended up not tightening the sensor into the adapter enough and then weeks later when I went to run it I saw a leak and ended up overtightening the adapter into the AL port of the oil cooler, just an idiotic mistake that still isn't quite right to this day.
 
forgot about how much of a pain the oil sensor is.


i wonder if Axis every changes the coolant catch. the one i got is a beauty. but too small so when i get up to temperature. it overflows.

My coolant catch seems to be a catch only. My setup is basically the same as all my old tractors and equipment. I fill it up and then it'll expand and dump any coolant it doesn't need, making room in the radiator and then it expands and contracts in the radiator as needed and I've never had an issue and I could simply dump it to the ground without the catch because I don't think coolant has ever gone back into the radiator from the catch can.

However it looks super nice.
 
My coolant catch seems to be a catch only. My setup is basically the same as all my old tractors and equipment. I fill it up and then it'll expand and dump any coolant it doesn't need, making room in the radiator and then it expands and contracts in the radiator as needed and I've never had an issue and I could simply dump it to the ground without the catch because I don't think coolant has ever gone back into the radiator from the catch can.

However it looks super nice.

that’s the aviator side of me coming out. i’m not used to such open tolerances. 😂
 
I'll have to take a look before I install the motor to get the oil senser routed.

I went with a different motor mount (similar to the TJ, quickdraw)

https://quickdrawbrand.com/cummins/...kit-universal-motor-mounts-cummins-r2-8-wide/

for the coolant overflow and power steering reservoir I was planning on running the TJ ones.

It's still a PITA because it's going to be easy to hit too when you install the motor Just make sure the fitting to the AL oil cooler has an oring seal and is torqued properly and you'll be fine. I just didn't get the sensor into the adapter right and then rushed around when it was leaking oil and didn't properly get my wrench on the adapter. Completely stupid, but you're going to make mistakes unless you do this for a living and then you may have a few swaps where you don't make some mistakes.

And conversely you don't want to have the sensor installed perfectly and then slightly tap something inside the frame while you're struggling getting everything inside the frame lined up and shear a sensor off or something.
 
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