Common on bottom of the barrel lifts.
If you want to fix it cheap, get stock control arms and see what that does. The tcase drop would have to remain most likely. If you want to do it correctly, then get quality adjustable control arms (rock jock preferred), an SYE (or even an SSYE (JB Conversions)), and a double cardan driveshaft (Tom Wood). This will allow you to place the axle correctly, get rid of the tcase drop, and get rid of the lower shock relocating brackets (which would likely require you to get different shocks).
OK this lines up with the little plan I had drawn out, but I had questions surrounding the best way to get it done. Really helpful of you to post out a plan for me, thank you. A few questions if you've got the time:
Regarding the Tcase, are the spacers of the skid plate the same mechanism in which the tcase itself is lowered? IE, is the tcase bolted to the skid an the spacers simply angle the powertrain by a few degrees? Wild.
On the Driveshaft - I'll do some research on the process to install the SYE, I'm no stranger to diving in so unless there are some wild specialty tools required I should be able to handle that, though to confirm, only the rear DS needs to be swapped with a DC because the front already has one, yes?
For for the control arms, would it be sufficient to purchase only lower adjustable arms and leave the top stock ones in place? or would adjustable uppers and keeping the modified lowers be appropriate?
And wow I didn't even notice that those were relocation brackets for the shocks. Those must compensate for the wonky axle angle. I did just purchase a set of Rancho RS5KX's for the appropriate lift height so those should just slot into place, since the ones that came with the lift were completely blown (shocker).
Thanks, I feel like this is likely the true culprit here.
