Ball Joints: Teraflex vs. Spicer

LittleGiant

LittleGiant

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Well I need new ball joints. An alignment couldn’t really get it all together, plus a have very distinct popping with every movement.

My local Jeep shop gave me a quote for parts and labor for $1K, but no way, I’m confident I can do it. They were going to use Teraflex ball joints. From my knowledge and experience it’s a great company, but I keep reading about Spicer.
My main concern is the shop was going to use knurled ball joints and the Spicer ones I’m looking at don’t seem to be knurled.

Thoughts?

2004 with 140K mikes
 
Thanks for the info. After further research I found that knurled ball joints should only be used as an absolute last resort.

The Spicer ball joints you bought were the exact same ones I just purchased. Fingers crossed it all works out
 
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LittleGiant said:
Thanks for the info. After further research I found that knurled ball joints should only be used as an absolute last resort.

The Spicer ball joints you bought were the exact same ones I just purchased. Fingers crossed it all works out
Click to expand...
Knurled is only used/needed if the ball joint seating surfaces have been damaged.
 
When taking out the old ball joints use the press, then whack the inner C with a BFH, then press, whack, press whack. The OTC ball joint tool works well.
 
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OP,
Do you know if knurled bjs have already been installed? I will always opt for spicer if knurled ones haven't already been installed. If they have then your choice is easy.
 
P man said:
OP,
Do you know if knurled bjs have already been installed? I will always opt for spicer if knurled ones haven't already been installed. If they have then your choice is easy.
Click to expand...

I do not know. I just bought the Jeep a few months ago. Is there a way to tell?
 
mrblaine said:
Or, dimple the body of the Spicer, use some 609 and go have fun.
Click to expand...

I did this.

Busch Beer GIF by Busch
 
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tworley said:
When taking out the old ball joints use the press, then whack the inner C with a BFH, then press, whack, press whack. The OTC ball joint tool works well.
Click to expand...

Just did mine. The lower were pretty hard to remove. I soaked with 50/50 ATF/acetone. I put the ball joint tool on it and left it for a while tightened. Then hit the top of the threaded rod in the ball joint tool with a BFH and it finally broke loose.
 
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billyp said:
Just did mine. The lower were pretty hard to remove. I soaked with 50/50 ATF/acetone. I put the ball joint tool on it and left it for a while tightened. Then hit the top of the threaded rod in the ball joint tool with a BFH and it finally broke loose.
Click to expand...

Next time hit the C, not the threaded rod. The C is a bit stronger and wont deform to the point you can't use it!
 
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tworley said:
Next time hit the C, not the threaded rod. The C is a bit stronger and wont deform to the point you can't use it!
Click to expand...

Yeah I did that too, but it wouldn't budge that way. I didn't have to hit the rod that hard — nowhere near hard enough to bend it....
 
I did mine a few months ago. I didn't even play-I hit all of them with the propane torch first. After everything cooled, I hit it with Liquid Wrench. Also, I used a piece of PVC pipe over the threads of my press tool to protect the smooth surfaces while doing the lower ball joints. Hub removal was the most difficult part, in my case. They did not want to let go.
 
glowell222 said:
I did mine a few months ago. I didn't even play-I hit all of them with the propane torch first. After everything cooled, I hit it with Liquid Wrench. Also, I used a piece of PVC pipe over the threads of my press tool to protect the smooth surfaces while doing the lower ball joints. Hub removal was the most difficult part, in my case. They did not want to let go.
Click to expand...

anti-sieze on the mating lip any time I have to remove the bearing has made my life a lot easier.
 
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hear said:
anti-sieze on the mating lip any time I have to remove the bearing has made my life a lot easier.
Click to expand...

I practically painted everything with anti-seize except where loctite was recommended. The next time should be much more reasonable.
 
LittleGiant said:
What do you mean by this?
Click to expand...

The press gets torqued to remove the old ball joints from the inner C. Whacking the end of the C on the axle (where the lower and upper ball joints are located) relieves that pressure the ball joints are seeing and the press doesn't need as much torque to remove the ball joints.

inner c20170520_160605.jpg
 
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