What did you do to your other vehicle today?

I advertised the complete car at $1700. Received offers ranging from $300 to $1000. I'm projecting just over $2k in sales, including scrapping the carcass, and I'll still have the engine, harness, ECU.

Oh nice that's honestly pretty good
 
Replaced the weathered headlights, running lights and fog lights on my 2004 Suburban 2500. Headlights and running lights took less than 30 min. Fog lights took the rest of the day. What a pain. Could not get the old brackets off because of my manly hands. Ended disassembling the bucket from the old brackets and installing the new ones. Now I can see where I’m going. Cost around $200 with all new bulbs. Next project is replacing the clutch master on the YJ.

IMG_2116.jpeg
 
Replaced the weathered headlights, running lights and fog lights on my 2004 Suburban 2500. Headlights and running lights took less than 30 min. Fog lights took the rest of the day. What a pain. Could not get the old brackets off because of my manly hands. Ended disassembling the bucket from the old brackets and installing the new ones. Now I can see where I’m going. Cost around $200 with all new bulbs. Next project is replacing the clutch master on the YJ.

View attachment 496507

Are they brighter at night? Mine look just like your old ones
 
Replaced the weathered headlights, running lights and fog lights on my 2004 Suburban 2500. Headlights and running lights took less than 30 min. Fog lights took the rest of the day. What a pain. Could not get the old brackets off because of my manly hands. Ended disassembling the bucket from the old brackets and installing the new ones. Now I can see where I’m going. Cost around $200 with all new bulbs. Next project is replacing the clutch master on the YJ.

View attachment 496507

What brand did you go with? I may be looking for some new ones for my '99 Silverado.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lBasket
Drilled drain holes on the starboard side of my 99. They are just under 1/2", which was the largest bit that I had that would still cut.

I stuck the hose in the hole behind the front tire and to my surprise, no sand, dirt or rust.

I will do the portside holes tomorrow. The back only allows a small amount of twisting a day.

Drain Holes.jpg
 
  • Wow
Reactions: lBasket
Drilled drain holes on the starboard side of my 99. They are just under 1/2", which was the largest bit that I had that would still cut.

I stuck the hose in the hole behind the front tire and to my surprise, no sand, dirt or rust.

I will do the portside holes tomorrow. The back only allows a small amount of twisting a day.

View attachment 496671

The first time I did this, it dumped mud out for like 2minutes straight lol
 
Putting a rear arb in my cousins 92 fj80. Cool rig.rhd and diesel.i was pleasantly surprised the power it has for an older diesel on 33s with no regear.it is an import from japan.no english on the tags and says some stuff in japanese when you start it,lol.
20230603_170111.jpg


20230603_170125.jpg


20230603_175213.jpg




I'm missing a washer from the bulkhead fitting kit #170114
download.jpg


That is easy to get,but moving forward with buying a front arb who has good deals? My cousin got it from a local shop that didn't exactly give him a good deal.

@Blackjack was that west coast differentials in rancho cordova you've recommended a few times?
 
Putting a rear arb in my cousins 92 fj80. Cool rig.rhd and diesel.i was pleasantly surprised the power it has for an older diesel on 33s with no regear.it is an import from japan.no english on the tags and says some stuff in japanese when you start it,lol.
View attachment 496700

View attachment 496701

View attachment 496702



I'm missing a washer from the bulkhead fitting kit #170114
View attachment 496698

That is easy to get,but moving forward with buying a front arb who has good deals? My cousin got it from a local shop that didn't exactly give him a good deal.

@Blackjack was that west coast differentials in rancho cordova you've recommended a few times?

Yes WCD is one of my top go to places.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Woodrow and Rickyd
Drill the driver side drain holes and gave the frame a through flush. No rust, just a bit of sand on each side.

Installed the short door straps.

I've only got one key, heading to town to get a few more made.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rickyd
Sadly, the source of the clunk appears to be the transmission. It also will only downshift to 4th if I go to third (clutch in) first, so there's something tweaked in the shift shafts. Just further delays for getting started on the LJ project... :mad:

I finally had time (really I was dreading cracking it open, so I was looking for any other project to delay "facing the music") to diagnose the 5th to 4th downshift for the 98 Subaru transmission. I had pulled the transmission back out back before Christmas, but I let it sit because I lacked the proper motivation to fix it. After pulling the transfer case off the back of the transmission last weekend (on a Subaru, the transfer case is very much integrated into the transmission), I discovered that the shift shaft for fifth and reverse was very difficult to move into fifth and back to neutral.

This afternoon, I split the cases and found the problem. There's an actuator arm on that shaft that engages the reverse gear lever. It had some damage in the bore that caused just enough friction that moving the shift shaft was quite difficult. I'll hone it next weekend, and hopefully that'll take care of the 5th-to-4th downshift issue.

I still haven't found the source of the "clunk" on deceleration, but I don't think it's internal to the transmission. Just another day in sab's shop trying to get a shitbox to run again. :ROFLMAO:

I need to get this done so that I can start on the long, long, long list of LJ mods lined up. I just added to that list by ordering a SwayLOC and everything needed to add hydro assist to the steering. I think I have dozens of weekends ahead on those mods...