What did you do to your other vehicle today?
- Thread starter Zorba
- Start date
One of these photos is more like the car in question.
You nailed, it ColoJeep. Here's the actual POS, and it's even more weather-worn than the photo you posted (same color, even!):
Edited to add: I drove to work this morning!
Quick "other vehicle" question. 99 Toyota Camry - metal gas tank has some pin hole rust spots. Is there an epoxy or JB Weld type product I could patch it with? Fortunately they're toward the top, so I can get 3/4 tank of gas in there. Thanks for any help
Years ago I used a NAPA repair kit to "fix" a leaking square body tank. The kit had a "bar of soap" that you used to rub in the pinholes and it stopped the gas leaking ,( mine was in a lower corner of the tank ) then you sanded the area and applied fiberglass mesh and epoxy. It worked well for 2 month before I replaced the tank.
J-B Weld makes an epoxy, and also a kit, for repairing metal fuel tanks:
https://www.jbweld.com/product/tankweld
https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-tankweld
I have not used those, though, so I have no personal experience with them. However, I did use this stuff on the plastic tank for my Expedition when I rebuilt it back in Fall 2022:
https://skygeek.com/flamemaster-cs3204b2kit-fuel-tank-sealant-6-oz.html (where I bought it)
https://flamemaster.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/CS3204-rev-09-13.pdf (Technical Bulletin from the manufacturer)
I can highly recommend that stuff. The problem I had was an EVAP slow leak that was causing a P0442 DTC, and it had been occurring for a couple years. I smoke-tested the fuel system, and I had very small amounts of smoke coming out at the mold seams in the tank. Nobody makes new tanks for that truck anymore, so I was stuck with figuring out what to do to make the OEM tank work (besides just continuing to ignore the P0442). I figured the aircraft industry was a good source, since safety is paramount, so I started researching aircraft fuel tank sealants and found that stuff. It was easy to apply with a small body filler spreader, and it bonded very well to the plastic, which I ruffed up with sandpaper and a Dremel wire wheel. Note that the Tech Bulletin states that it has excellent adhesion to steel, but doesn't mention paint. I'd recommend trying to sand down to bare steel to get a good bond over the pinholes - just don't forget it's a GAS tank, and sparks are bad.
As with paint, prep is everything. My P0442 has not come back in the 14 months since I finished that Expedition rebuild.
Learned how to drive (and stick) in my dad’s 98 Impreza, that poor clutch was never the same. He upgraded to the Sti after me and two brothers were out of the house.
I learned to drive stick in a Subaru FF1. It was owned by a pair of twins I went to college with. I think it was about a 1970 model year, or so. My old man was a GM man through-and-through, so only autos at home.
Oil change on the GCTH. Waiting for it to drain.
As per another thread here, the old Benz got a set of Sil Wiper blades. We'll see...
284,000 miles and I have some transmission issues popping up on the 2013 Yukon. It shudders under low load/low rpm when you are basically lugging it. Likely the torque converter is out but at this point probably should consider a transmission too.
Putting a $5,000 transmission into a $6,000 car is a tough pill to swallow but it is fairly clean rust wise (one tiny spot showing on inside lip of front fender) and it runs and drives well. Train of thought has to be, replace car (somewhat unlikely), replace trans, or Duramax swap (highly unlikely).
Putting a $5,000 transmission into a $6,000 car is a tough pill to swallow but it is fairly clean rust wise (one tiny spot showing on inside lip of front fender) and it runs and drives well. Train of thought has to be, replace car (somewhat unlikely), replace trans, or Duramax swap (highly unlikely).
It's all about cost per mile , what would it cost you to replace it with a similar vehicle ? A new trans may be the best option.
Had the tranny in my old 01 Silverado rebuilt for $1600. Got about 4 years out of it before cancer took the rest of it, then sold the teanny for $800. Find a good rebuild shop
I think this is outdated reasoning. Car prices are so high that the better question is: what's my lowest cost to have a dependable vehicle?
Agreed.
I'm a little late to the party, but after a slip with a drill, I had to use some of that. I put it on back in '16 or '17 and have had no leaks. I actually keep some on hand now, JIC. I do recommend it.
That's good mileage out of it, but it's time.
$5K is a hell of a lot cheaper than $40K. If the rest of the vehicle is in decent shape and it meets your current needs, keep it. I had a 545rfe trans rebuilt at the end of '20 for $3,300. That included a 3 year/50,000-mile warranty.
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