If you allow the idea that "it's a Jeep thing" then you can justify all kinds of bad behaviors.
Savvy off-road sold? (the unofficial Savvy customer support and Savvy rant thread)
- Thread starter Gollywomper
- Start date
If you allow the idea that "it's a Jeep thing" then you can justify all kinds of bad behaviors.
If you allow the idea that "it's a Jeep thing" then you can justify all kinds of bad behaviors.
My NVH isn't terrible... But you can tell it would be if the drivetrain wasn't isolated well lmao.
My MR2 is gonna have a really long stroke 4banger and has all poly mounts. It's gonna vibrate horribly
With your use case, the UCF skid will be fine. I've turtled a UCF skid on more that one occasion and it survived, with no real damage. While the Savvy skid is superior in several ways, as articulated already, it can't be #1 if it's not available. Options in this case are go steel, wait "one more month" from Savyy, or go UCF. Your choice was not a bad one, given the options and planned usage.
UKTJ
TJ Addict
How close to totally flat is the Savvy? Is it an option to run an alternative cross member and then use a flat section of 6061-t6 without the need for any bends? Or is there just not the room to do that with a 1.25" body lift?
Savvy is flat at the frame rails then angles in towards the middle where a short width hangs down about 1.75".
UKTJ
TJ Addict
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
While flat, it is far from "bolt on".
The Savvy UA is best as far as "bolt on solutions go". It can be outdone if one can weld/fabricate.
Not to mention that there's some value in the triangulated shape. While not having things to hit is great, the belly is often hit either way. The weight distribution of a flat skid and slightly bent one perform differently.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
I never suggested it was a bolt on mod. I was simply showing that it exists. Nor do I disagree with your comments on the Savvy. Hell, I'm still running an OEM shovel.
The triangulated shape adds structural strength. In part, because an impact will try to flatten the skid. This forces the plate outwards into the frame rails, which will resist the deformation along with the two steel stiffeners.
Another argument against flat in some cases is that there is no point in going higher than the engine skid can go.
Then there is the concern over driveshaft angles at full shock extension. Mine has a rear center strap for exactly this reason.
Exactly. It's all trade offs. Go fully flat belly, you may reduce hits by 5% (especially in a TJ vs LJ), but those fewer hits likely matter much more.
I’m not sure that a flat belly is useless, breakover angle seems to be one of my biggest holdups.
But you may have a point, raise the belly flat and you move the hangups to frameside LCA brackets and engine skid.
Thankfully that’s an issue most LJ builders don’t face.
Here is my 1/4” UCF No Body Lift skid (2.5” drop from frame rails) after I turtled on the Rubicon for a bit. @Alex01 had to winch me off.
The welds did not fail but 1/4” 6061 does not seem to be strong enough. My solution is a stronger and higher skid. I decided to raise the belly with larger tires (33 to 35) and to goto the Ultra High Clearance skid (1” drop from from the frame). I debated 1/4” steel but for weight savings, I will try 6061 aluminum once more but in 3/8” this time around. Of course, one does not simply slap 35s and a 1” drop skid on. Other mods are underway to hopefully make all that work.