Savvy off-road sold? (the unofficial Savvy customer support and Savvy rant thread)

Planning on the Rubicon this summer...just was able to afford control arms...stock shovel...all I need for a higher clearance skid is a BL, MML... everything else is there.

Probably need rear corner armor and need to repair or replace my rear bumper... would love to get my spare tire back on the tailgate.

Love to do all of it Savvy...love to do all of it with aluminum...

-Mac

P.S. And cut and weld up the fuel tank skid.
 
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Here is my 1/4” UCF No Body Lift skid (2.5” drop from frame rails) after I turtled on the Rubicon for a bit. @Alex01 had to winch me off.
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The welds did not fail but 1/4” 6061 does not seem to be strong enough. My solution is a stronger and higher skid. I decided to raise the belly with larger tires (33 to 35) and to goto the Ultra High Clearance skid (1” drop from from the frame). I debated 1/4” steel but for weight savings, I will try 6061 aluminum once more but in 3/8” this time around. Of course, one does not simply slap 35s and a 1” drop skid on. Other mods are underway to hopefully make all that work.

My Savvy isn't perfectly straight anymore either.
 
How close to totally flat is the Savvy? Is it an option to run an alternative cross member and then use a flat section of 6061-t6 without the need for any bends? Or is there just not the room to do that with a 1.25" body lift?

@ErikOffroad fabbed up a completely flat belly.
 
I've never seen a Barnes skid that was flat to the frame rails.

@ErikOffroad fabbed up a completely flat belly.

How much "flat" is desirable? :) And have these photos that our Easter Bunny sprinkled in Garret's build thread already been forgotten?

And yes, rhetorical questions :)

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@jjvw, didn’t you do something at the frame rail like countersink those six bolts? Or was this only discussed?

I looked at it but didn’t think it would work due to the bigger bolt relative to the skid thickness. The bolt head would have to be very shallow.
 
@jjvw, didn’t you do something at the frame rail like countersink those six bolts? Or was this only discussed?

I countersunk mine several years ago. One side is easy. The side with slotted holes is tougher where I needed to modify a piloted countersink that could reach into the frame nutserts.
 
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I countersunk mine several years ago. One side is easy. The side with slotted holes is tougher where I needed to modify a piloted countersink that could reach into the frame nutserts.

Got any pics handy, or in the build thread?
 
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What’s really keen about Blaines design is the face of the nutsert is flush with the new frame so there’s no need for the spacers that come with the Savvy MUA system.

The slightly tricky part for people to figure out is how to make the counter bore for the nutserts flange to recess into.

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