It's probably moot with the stick method, but yes, my question was rhetorical to illustrate how many variables there are and that most outboarded Jeeps are likely not within half an inch of 50/50 in actual usage regardless of how much effort went into setting them that way from the start, therefore, if a fixture got them that close it would remove barriers to entry for this mod for people less comfortable with fabrication. I suspect there are people who would love the improved ride but don't offroad in a way that explicitly requires better than half an inch of precision and could feel more at peace tackling this or even taking it to a shop and handing over a fixture that gives even a little bit of hope that it'll be harder to screw up.
I assure you my $50 shocks would ride equally like ass at 50/50 as they do at the 45/55 (front) and 55/45 (rear) that they currently sit.
It isn't complicated. Set the ride height for shock mounts at 50/50 with whatever pile of stuff you typically carry along when you want the optimal shock performance. If you want that optimal performance while rock crawling with a hardtop, full hard doors, a big cooler full of ice cream, wife, girlfriend, all three mastiffs, and every tool you own, then that is what you build the shocks around.
The greater the variance from that configuration's weight, the more the ride height will change and the more the shock's performance will be affected.
For perspective, understand that filling up an empty gas tank sinks the rear about 1/4" with about 90lbs of fuel. You can calculate that more specifically with your spring rates. Or you can simply measure and watch while you stand at the pump. Tools, gear, and body weights are all going to meander a bit over time. The dogs die.
The biggest problem comes from guys who build shock mounts with a completely naked, empty, unloaded Jeep. Then later on pile in a few hundred pounds of gear, full gas cans, and a RTT and wonder why the shocks are bottoming out.