Motor Mount Height Question

Hasselblad

TJ Enthusiast
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Oct 10, 2020
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Utah Mountains
So when I did my body lift, I added spacers to the motor mounts to lift it accordingly. Fast forward to the belly lift I just did. My pinion angle (DC shaft) has been adjusted for the new angle, but getting vibes (mostly accelerating at 30MPH and noticeable at speeds beyond.) and since the belly lift brought the angle of the motor back down nose-wise I am wondering if I may need to add more of a MML to regain the angle of motor/trans/TC that I had before the belly up. The Tereflex skid came with spacers and I am wondering if it is feasible to stack spacers by adding them to the existing ones (JKS)

Does the 1.25 Body Lift + Belly Lift require higher motor mounts, or am I overthinking this? Over next weekend I will be peeking at u joints to rule those out as well.

For data sake, adding the new skid brought the nose down to the point the fan was hitting the shroud, so I dropped the shroud slightly.
 
You're overthinking it considerably. If you have vibrations, just adjust the driveshaft accordingly until they go away. Simple as that (y)

Well I dialed the UCAs to the least vibes, which has the pinion angles equaled out, and thought it would be a bad idea to go beyond that, so suspecting it is not an angle issue of the pinion.
 
Well I dialed the UCAs to the least vibes, which has the pinion angles equaled out, and thought it would be a bad idea to go beyond that, so suspecting it is not an angle issue of the pinion.

What you could be experiencing may not be vibrations from the driveline at all. It could be vibrations from the transfer case hitting the tub or the belly pan itself and creating resonance like vibrations and certain RPMs. That shouldn’t have anything to do with the height of the mounts though.
 
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So when I did my body lift, I added spacers to the motor mounts to lift it accordingly. Fast forward to the belly lift I just did. My pinion angle (DC shaft) has been adjusted for the new angle, but getting vibes (mostly accelerating at 30MPH and noticeable at speeds beyond.) and since the belly lift brought the angle of the motor back down nose-wise I am wondering if I may need to add more of a MML to regain the angle of motor/trans/TC that I had before the belly up. The Tereflex skid came with spacers and I am wondering if it is feasible to stack spacers by adding them to the existing ones (JKS)

Does the 1.25 Body Lift + Belly Lift require higher motor mounts, or am I overthinking this? Over next weekend I will be peeking at u joints to rule those out as well.

For data sake, adding the new skid brought the nose down to the point the fan was hitting the shroud, so I dropped the shroud slightly.

If the belly skid lifted the transmission mount, then it would make sense that the engine should also be lifted to flatten out the rear output.
 
View attachment 710294


Yup, Pinion is correct for double cardon.
 
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If the belly skid lifted the transmission mount, then it would make sense that the engine should also be lifted to flatten out the rear output.

That was my initial thought as well. The lifting of the tran mount caused the motor to pivot forward and down, and making the driveline angle that much more extreme compared to the pinion.
 
Tereflex Belly Up Skid
Tom's Double Cardon Shaft (rubi version)
JKS Motor Mount Spacers
Metalcloak double adjust UCAs
Meany-Pants WTJF.com guy's body lift (you can figure that out no doubt)
OME Springs, Rancho Shocks

Let me know of what specifically you'd like a pic of
 
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Pinion angle looks high in the picture...but that could be the angle of the shot...



It's currently at 0 degrees. Double/triple checked with digital gauges. Went off the flat back of the gear housing and the DC shaft straight section. I started testing at 3 degrees, and dialed up to 0 in half degree increments.
 
Bonus question: while I still have an ounce of motivation to fiddle underneath, I plan to replace the rear sway links (noisy rattle AF), with only the OME spring lift will I need to go longer than stock length?
 
It's currently at 0 degrees. Double/triple checked with digital gauges. Went off the flat back of the gear housing and the DC shaft straight section. I started testing at 3 degrees, and dialed up to 0 in half degree increments.

Rear pinion generally should be slightly low so that it stays closer to zero on the highway when the axle is under load. Odd exceptions do exist, though.
 
If your profile list is still accurate i have close to the same setup. But with a np231.

I didn't need to raise the motor even more to get the vibes settled. How old are the joints and centering ball in the rear shaft?
 
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@Hasselblad what is your driveshaft angle relative to the ground? Relative to the TCase input?
 
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If your profile list is still accurate i have close to the same setup. But with a np231.

I didn't need to raise the motor even more to get the vibes settled. How old are the joints and centering ball in the rear shaft?

2 years since installing the Tom Woods shaft.